Do we dig a well at the dacha and near the house from concrete rings or without our own hands, 3 meters or more, even in clay? Tips +Video

It is necessary to properly organize water intake on the site. Therefore, we will consider how to properly dig a well in a dacha with your own hands and strength: where exactly to place it, what time to choose for the work, which design to give preference to, and so on. We will pay attention to every important point so that you receive detailed instructions for action.

Do I need a permit?

No, and this is clearly stated in Article 19 of the Law of the Russian Federation “On Subsoil”, relevant since February 21, 1992. According to its provisions, not only the owner of the land, but even the tenant has the right to carry out the construction of such objects without drawing up any documents, if the water that he plans to extract:

• lies in the basin of the first horizon;
• not used as a source of centralized supply;
• will be taken for household, personal or other needs not related to business.

How to choose a place

It is important not only to know how to dig a well with your own hands at the dacha, but also to understand where to do it. To decide, the safest thing to do is contact an independent laboratory to order hydrogeological studies: specialists will conduct the necessary tests and indicate a specific point for drilling. Naturally, this is a paid service and it is not cheap, and if your budget is limited, you can try to do without it. In this case, you need to focus on several characteristic signs, but understand that none of them will be as accurate as the examination.

Pay attention to nearby land plots

Find out at what depth your neighbors are collecting and how clean the liquid is. Let's say they have a 6-meter well: if you organize everything the same way as they do, then, quite likely, you will get the same water as them. But this is not a fact: you should understand that the pool usually moves evenly, gradually and slightly shifting, but it can also go sharply up or down. So this guide will only be approximate.

Look at the plants

Let's reveal a little secret - how they dig a well with rings (or without them) in an area that has not yet been plowed: they do this, focusing on the local flora. Islands of various herbs and shrubs, and trees also tell you how far from the surface the life-giving moisture lies and runs.

• cattail – up to 1 m;
• black poplar – from 0.5 to 3 m;
• sandy reeds – from 1 to 3 m;
• reed – from 1.5 to 5 m;
• paniculate wormwood – from 3 to 7 m;
• yellow alfalfa - from 1.4 to 10 or even 15 m.

In general, the more powerful the plant’s root system, the deeper the water lies. The same hazel or pine trees silently indicate that you will have to drill a good well (but the liquid from it will be clean).

Observe wildlife and nature

Let’s say you already know in theory how to dig wells by hand, the technology from the video is also clear to you, all that remains is to decide on the location. Before choosing one, take a closer look at the midges: if the same annoying mosquitoes in calm weather circle in a whole flock over some point, it means that there is a pool of life-giving moisture located very close to its surface. But mouse holes or mole holes will indicate dry soil meters down.

Also keep in mind that on hot days, dogs, cats, goats (and other livestock) lie down where it is cooler, where it is promising to begin construction. Another suitable area is areas over which fog billows in the morning.

Traditional methods

You can determine where and how to properly dig a well by hand using long-known signs. Here are the most working of them, which remain relevant today:

• Fill clay pots (unglazed) with an equal amount of salt, wrap them in natural fabric, dig them in different places, but all at a depth of 50 cm. Let them sit for a day, and then take them out and check - the heaviest ones have collected the most moisture, which means they are located closest to the aquifer.
• Take glass jars of the same volume, turn them over and deepen them into the ground and leave them for a day. Then check - on those that were lying close to the pocket with liquid, condensation will appear more abundantly.
• Make frames from willow vine (split the twig in half, bend the ends at an angle of 150 degrees or more and dry), and then slowly walk around the entire area. In places suitable for drilling, the middle part of your improvised pointer should lead down.

How to dig a well: choose a place in the country and do it yourself

Being the owner of your own country plot and not having your own well is probably not the most successful option. Yes, of course, some holiday villages are equipped with a centralized water supply system, but it’s still better to be completely independent from the “whims” of public utilities. The well will become a source of clean drinking water, satisfy all household needs, and provide watering for the garden plot, but only if it is equipped correctly.

How to dig a well

How to dig a well on your property? The easiest way is, of course, to invite a team of specialists, although this will be quite expensive. Of course, if you want to try your hand at this difficult task, you need to select diligent assistants, prepare tools, equipment and the necessary materials, and dare. However, you should warn us right away - digging wells is a job of increased complexity and danger, and you need to very soberly assess your real capabilities.

However, if such work quite reasonably seems beyond your capabilities, then you still need to know its theoretical basics, at least in order to imagine the sequence of operations and their labor intensity - it will be possible to more substantively control the work of the hired team.

So, the entire process of arranging a well “from scratch” can be divided into several main stages:

• choosing a suitable location;
• excavation and installation work;
• waterproofing of the well shaft;
• installation of a bottom filter;
• arrangement of the upper part of the well;
• if necessary, then decorative design.

Where to dig a well?

They say that, by and large, in central Russia you can dig a well anywhere - sooner or later you will end up in an aquifer. However, why dig where the work will require maximum labor costs with minimal returns? There are proven ways to find the most favorable location for this water source.

Approximate location of groundwater

First of all, you need to understand what groundwater is:

• At a shallow depth (up to 4 meters) from the soil surface, surface water layers can lie - they are called perched water. They are not stable in nature, highly dependent on the season and amount of precipitation, are quite heavily polluted with organic matter or chemicals from the fields and are not considered as a source of water.
• The next layer is groundwater, located at depths of about 10 meters and below. This horizon is already quite stable, the water in it has undergone deeper filtration, and it is this layer that is relied upon when digging wells. The water here is in a free-pressure state, that is, the level should remain approximately at the same level, with certain seasonal fluctuations.
• Even deeper, at a depth of several tens of meters, there are interstratal or artesian water horizons. It is on them that the “sight” is made when drilling water-bearing wells.

And this is the basic diagram of the well.
So, the goal of the search is to find the place where the second aquifer of groundwater is closest to the soil surface. How to do it?

First of all, from the search area it is necessary to exclude places located near cesspools or silos, latrines, septic tanks, and garbage dumps. Ideally, such sources of pollution should be at least 50 meters away. In addition, the well should not be closer than 5 meters from permanent buildings.

The most accurate result will, of course, be given by exploratory drilling.

The most accurate, of course, is the exploratory drilling method, but this is a rather complicated procedure that requires a lot of effort or material resources. You can try to determine the location for the well in other ways, which have been widely used for a long time.

Typically, the search for aquifers is carried out early in the morning, from 5 to 6 o'clock, or in the evening and night hours - from 6 to 7, from 10 to 11, or from midnight to one in the morning.

• The first thing you should pay attention to is the lowlands, places with an increased amount of morning dew, those areas where denser fog collects or rises in a column.
• For a long time, “dowsing” was used for these purposes - experienced folk craftsmen accurately indicated the place to dig a well, walking around the area with a slingshot made of long willow branches. It was held vertically in the hands, and in the place of maximum contact of the water layer, the “dowser” felt the attraction of the common trunk of the slingshot to the ground.

For a long time, dowsing has been used to find optimal places.
Is it possible to try this method yourself? It’s doubtful, probably, but there must be appropriate skill and experience in this matter.

This method of dowsing can be used in a slightly different way. Two identical L-shaped frames are made from metal wire (for example, welding electrodes). Holding them loosely in the fists of both hands by the short shoulder, they slowly walk around the area. In places where water is close, the frames should begin to rotate and cross.

Video: dowsing a site for a well using frames

Some people with a developed sense of dowsing engage in such a search even on an almost professional basis, showing the exact location of the place for the well.

A tool for dowsing specialists

• Trees, shrubs, and herbs can tell you a lot. For example, willows, birches, alders, and among herbs - sedge and coltsfoot will definitely tell you that the aquifer is shallow. Other trees (pine, for example), on the contrary, indicate that the water is not close. Plant species can even suggest the approximate depth of the aquifer:

What plants can tell you

• You can observe other signs as well. For example, on a summer day, a flock of mosquitoes or midges usually hover over places that are promising for a well. Domestic animals also sense the proximity of water - dogs, for example, can dig a small hole-den in these places during the hot season for daytime rest.
• The most promising places can also be checked using the moisture absorption method. To do this, take a material that has increased moisture absorption - for example, silica gel, or crushed red brick. This adsorbent is thoroughly dried in the oven and filled into a dry, unglazed clay vessel. All this is wrapped in non-woven material and weighed literally down to the gram. Then the filled and wrapped vessel is buried in the place to be checked to a depth of about half a meter for a day. (the test is carried out only in clear weather, in dry soil). You can check at several points at once. After a day, weigh the vessels and determine how much water was absorbed by the adsorbent. The optimal place for a well will be where the most moisture is collected.

The location is selected taking into account all possible criteria and the results of several tests. As a rule, the totality of the data obtained should indicate the most suitable point for further work.

What you need for work

If you have decided on a location, you need to set a time for further work. There is a widespread belief that the optimal time is winter - groundwater is “at rest” at its lowest point. However, it is sometimes difficult to agree with this, since it is very difficult and quite dangerous to carry out excavation work in winter, especially in conditions of high humidity and constant flow of water at the final stage. In addition, it will be very difficult to work in warm clothes in a cramped well shaft. True, when digging deep wells (about 10 - 15 meters), air flows into them more easily in winter, but in summer this can be a problem. But still, for medium-depth wells, the optimal time for digging seems to be the end of summer and the beginning of autumn - before the onset of the rainy season.

Tools and accessories for work

Tools you will need:

- shovels, bayonet and shovel with shortened handles;

— a crowbar and a pick for digging through dense layers of soil;

— buckets for lifting the selected soil and a wheelbarrow for transporting it to the side;

— ropes for lifting buckets, slings for hanging and installing reinforced concrete rings;

— a tripod installed above the shaft, with a lifting mechanism attached to it (well gate, pulley block, winch, hoists, etc.)

— plumb lines and building level for careful control of vertical penetration;

- protective equipment and insurance - helmet, safety belt with line;

— a drainage pump will be required to pump out the incoming water;

— materials and tools for carrying out waterproofing work.

Most modern wells are made of reinforced concrete rings. It is best to purchase products that have a “quarter” locking part for a centered and tight fit of the rings to each other. The standard ring size is 1000 mm - internal diameter, 1160 - external, wall thickness - 80 mm, maximum height - 900 mm. Such a product (KS-10-9) weighs 600 kg. If necessary, you can purchase rings of the same diameter, but of a smaller height - 300, 500 or 600 mm. On the walls of such rings there are holes for inserting slings when hanging and lowering them into the shaft.

Well rings of various heights

You should immediately warn against purchasing low-quality, illicit rings that are damaged or have already been used. Such savings here are not only inappropriate, but can also be dangerous, since the practice of arranging wells knows many cases of rupture, distortion, and bursting of rings with all possible consequences.

How many rings are needed is an individual question for each specific place. It is worth finding out from your neighbors how deep their well is; this figure should not change much. At the same time, the structure of the well itself is taken into account - the height of the water-bearing part itself, the trunk and the head.

Wells can vary in height depending on their design

Digging a well and installing rings

• Work begins with markings on the soil surface. For these purposes, as well as to control compliance with the dimensions of future penetration, you need to build a simple device - a cross of two slats, with a length equal to the required diameter of the shaft.

Crosspiece - template for further work
If the ring has an outer diameter of 1160, then the shaft should be marked approximately 200 - 300 mm wider, i.e. Ø from 1350 to 1450 mm with the open method of constructing a well (more on this below). With the closed method, the minimum required gap is left - so that the ring fits into the shaft without distortion.

• Remove the top layer of soil from the turf and begin to delve into the dense layers of soil.

The top turf layer is removed.
All selected soil must be at least 3 meters from the work site at a distance of at least 3 meters from the pit. You can even immediately take it away, for example, to a place where it is planned to build an “alpine slide”. When the clay layer begins, it is better to store the selected clay separately - it will be useful in the future for waterproofing the well.

The diameter of the penetration and its verticality are constantly monitored

• After going deep to the height of the first ring, install a tripod or other structure on which lifting mechanisms are mounted, and further work can be planned in different ways:

The recess for the first ring is ready
1. You can install the first ring exactly and continue digging under it - it will sink under its own weight.

Installation of reinforced concrete ring

As the settlement progresses, the next ring is installed on the first one, and they are fastened together with brackets - and so on until the aquifer. This method is called “closed”, and is more relevant on problematic, shifting soils, with quicksand, underground “rivers”, etc. Thus, the excavator always works in a concrete ring, which lowers with him as the soil is removed.

The subsidence of the entire well trunk occurs as soil is removed

This method is not considered optimal, as it has many disadvantages. Thus, a big problem during excavation can be a large boulder caught under the wall of the ring - removing it will not be easy, and sometimes even impossible. But on the other hand, installation of subsequent rings does not require complex lifting equipment, since it is always carried out at the top.

2. The second method is called “open” and involves digging a shaft to the entire required depth and then installing rings. Disadvantages - a much larger volume of selected soil, difficulties with installing and fastening the rings (the work is carried out at a considerable depth), there is always a danger of shedding or even collapse of the mine walls, especially when unstable aquifers begin or quicksand breaks through the wall - the source of “overwater” .

Open pit well shaft

3. Based on the above, the optimal method will probably be a mixed method. Initially, the work is carried out using the open method, but until the first sign of instability of the walls or the appearance of signs of perched water. Then reinforced concrete rings are immediately lowered to the excavated depth, and further soil excavation is carried out using a closed technology, with the deposition of an extendable well shaft. This is the approach most often used in practice.

• The work becomes more complicated once the aquifer is reached - according to the rules, it is necessary to settle the trunk on at least one more, and better yet, two more rings. Often it is necessary to ensure constant pumping of incoming water. Before entering this layer, the joints of the lower rings must immediately be sealed with special cement-containing compounds.

Joints of rings and mounting holes must be sealed with a special solution

• The well shaft is extended in such a way that the upper ring protrudes approximately 500 mm above ground level. In the future, this head can be formed by a frame or in another way; a crank mechanism is installed above it to lift the bucket.

Video: methods of digging wells from reinforced concrete rings

After completely tearing off the well along its entire depth, it is necessary to pump out all the water and silt from it in order to install a bottom filter.

Well bottom filter

Without this element, the water in the well will not have the purity that the owner probably expects. The springs gushing at the bottom of the well can raise turbidity, sand, and in the case of quicksand (extremely saturated with water flowing sand) it will simply become overgrown and shallow very quickly.

The choice of bottom filter depends on the condition of the bottom - what kind of soil forms it:

• If the bottom is dense clay through which springs flow, then, as a rule, the water will be clean, and there is not even a need for a bottom filter. Moreover, its installation can even reduce the debit of the well. Light turbidity, if any, can be easily eliminated with a regular household filtration system.
• If the bottom is formed by soft clay, then it will be constantly eroded by streams of incoming water. The water becomes excessively cloudy and can only be collected from the top layer. To eliminate this drawback, you will need a direct bottom filter.

To do this, large stones or crushed stones are placed on the bottom, with a maximum size of up to 150 - 200 mm. Then a layer of medium-sized gravel (fraction 20-30 mm), up to 150 mm thick, is poured. And a final layer of clean river pebbles, also up to 150 mm thick, is laid on top. The total thickness of the resulting filter reaches half a meter.

Such crushed stone is quite suitable for a bottom filter

• The sandy bottom through which water seeps in poses another danger. Any impact on it (for example, a lowered bucket) causes a rise in the sand mass, which rises to the top along with the water. It is impossible to install pumping equipment in such a well - sand will quickly disable it. However, everything can be solved by creating a reverse bottom filter that will prevent grains of sand from rising from the bottom.

In this case, washed river sand is first poured onto the bottom. The second layer is river pebbles or gravel up to 10 mm in size (shungite can be used). And the top layer will be large gravel or pebbles ranging in size from 50 mm. The thickness of each layer is at least 150 mm.

Layed pebble and gravel layer

• The bottom is a pronounced quicksand - which means you can’t do without a special wooden shield. It is knocked together from aspen or oak boards and cut exactly to the size of the bottom of the well. A large number of holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled into the shield. It is then wrapped in geotextiles and placed on the bottom.

An aspen round shield for a bottom filter on a quicksand
is pressed down with large stones to prevent it from floating up. At least 200-300 mm layer of small pebbles or gravel is laid on top.

What safety measures are required when digging a well?

The work of digging a well is very specific and dangerous and requires special precautions.

• First of all, the area should be fenced off and strangers, and especially children, should not be allowed into the work area.
• You cannot store the selected soil closer than 3 meters from the mine, or even better, immediately take it to a safe distance. Within the same radius there should be no foreign objects or unused tools at all near the shaft.
• All lifting mechanisms - construction structures, tripods, winches installed on them, gates, hoists, etc. must be checked daily before starting work. The condition of ropes, slings, and rigging hooks is also carefully monitored. All lifting devices must have a reliable brake and locking system.
• Buckets (tubs) for extracting soil must be tightly tied to ropes, and when working at a depth of more than 6 meters, they must also have a safety end.
• Working at depth may be accompanied by the accumulation of gases in the mine, which can cause suffocation for the excavator. Before lowering it into the mine, the air quality must be checked - a burning candle is lowered into it. If it goes out, forced ventilation must be carried out, and then the test is repeated.
• If there is a lack of oxygen during work, it is necessary to create conditions for forced ventilation. For these purposes, you can use a compressor, fan or other air blower (sometimes even a powerful vacuum cleaner), or install a metal furnace near the shaft, the vent of which is connected to a pipe lowered to the very bottom of the shaft.
• It is imperative to warn the excavator by voice about objects being lowered or raised. A worker in a mine must wear a safety helmet, and the possibility of emergency evacuation must be provided.
• When working using the ring deposition method, the upper unclosed edge of the shaft should not be more than 1 meter. If there are signs of instability of the shaft walls, work is immediately stopped until the cause is determined and the possibility of eliminating it is determined.

Typically, work on high-quality digging of wells is carried out by teams of experienced professionals who have their own specialized equipment. It is almost impossible for a beginner to cope with such a task - there are too many nuances familiar only to masters, and the work is fraught with too many dangers.

Find out which submersible pump for a well is best to choose from our new article.

Video: Tips from a professional for digging wells

At this point, the construction of a well on a suburban site is far from completed. There is still serious work to be done on waterproofing, insulation, installation of a clay castle, concrete blind area, installation of water pipes, head equipment and other stages. They will be discussed in more detail in other publications on our portal.

Shaft depth

Theoretical preparation for digging a well with your own hands continues with determining how much to drill. Typically, all suitable layers and horizons are located at 5-30 m. And depending on which of them you fall into, your structure can be classified into one of three types:

1. Imperfect.
2. Full.
3. With a sump.

In the first case, the liquid will flow through the bottom with the walls, in the second - only from the sides, the last option generally assumes the location of the sleeve in the rock. This solution makes it possible to significantly increase the supply of accumulated moisture and is therefore rightly considered a priority, but it is not always available for implementation - it all depends on the nature of the formation.

Open digging method

In this case, we dig wells to the full depth, right down to penetration into the aquifer, and only after that we begin the installation of casing rings. This technological method is characterized by the danger of collapsing the walls of the mine with all the ensuing consequences for humans. Therefore, open technology should be used exclusively on dense soils - clayey or compressed gravel-sand.

After installing the casing elements, the seams should be sealed to prevent the entry of contaminated water from the upper layers of the soil - “upper water”.

The advantage of the open digging method is that there is no need to constantly keep lifting and mounting equipment at the work site to install the rings. The crane is ordered only at the final stage of work, for the simultaneous installation of all concrete rings into the shaft.

How to dig deep wells, at what time of year

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The optimal time is the end of summer or January. But it is important that at the beginning of winter one condition is observed: you can start working only if there have been frosts for at least 3 weeks before.

Solving the issue during such a period has its advantages:

• The groundwater level remains at a consistently low level;
• there is practically no water flow, which is also convenient;
• the debit is minimal and is not difficult to calculate.

In central Russia, the best days are the first half of August: the weather is usually dry, and the project can be fully implemented before the rainy season.

At what horizon should we dig a well?

Aquifers can occur at several levels. The topmost one is usually located close to the surface of the earth. This layer is called perchal water. It may be contaminated by agricultural chemicals, fecal bacteria from sewage, etc.

Verkhodka is not suitable for feeding a well, unless the water is planned to be used exclusively for technical purposes or for watering garden plants. It should also be taken into account that during seasonal changes the amount of water can significantly decrease or increase.

Wells are dug into the groundwater horizon. This aquifer lies below the perched water. The water in it is often free-flowing, so its level in the well is the same as in the aquifer. During the construction of hydraulic structures, groundwater is cut off from the perched water layers to protect it from pollution.

An aesthetically designed well will not only provide the site with water, but will also decorate the local area

Artesian waters lie below groundwater. Wells are not dug to this horizon, and the construction of wells is very expensive. In addition, you have to obtain a permit to use water resources.

Artesian waters are pressure waters, so the water level in the well is higher than in the horizon, and even gushing is possible.

Different zones of the same aquifer may vary. They have different chemical compositions, temperatures, and differ in degree of purity. Therefore, it is imperative to have your water analyzed, even if there are wells nearby dug to the same level and the water in them is good

Self-digging well technique

Using various drilling methods, one of four options for the hose structure can be realized. Let's look at each one.

Open

Create a shaft - a hole of suitable depth, with a diameter of 20-25 centimeters greater than the double radius of the reinforced concrete rings. Then you lower the reinforced concrete products into it and securely connect them to each other, carefully sealing the joints. Fill the free space between the soil and their walls with earth.

It is understood that at the first stage you will involve special equipment, so this method is not the most budget-friendly to implement, but it has two important advantages:

• as simple as possible in arrangement;
• it will not be difficult to close the source when quicksand is detected.

Closed

Using this technology, you can also make a proper well in your dacha; you just need to dig a hole about 2 meters long, just enough to put one ring in, and then start deepening it. As this happens, the product will gently sink lower and lower, and therefore at some point you will be able to place a second one on it, and then a third one, thoroughly sealing the lines of their connection, the main thing is that the last one rises above the surface.

Yes, this method often turns out to be difficult for inexperienced builders, but it is the most affordable. Also among its advantages:

• completely eliminated the possibility of ground collapse;
• the problem is not difficult to solve without the use of expensive special equipment.

Shakhtny

Another option on how to properly dig a well from concrete rings with your own hands. In this case, reinforced concrete products act as a support, strengthening the trunk and protecting it from shedding of earth. Previously, logs were used for these purposes, but they were replaced by more durable materials. This design prevents wastewater, dirt and foreign objects from entering the source.

True, you should prepare for labor-intensive construction, but when you have completed it, you will be able to fully experience the following practical advantages:

• service life reaches half a century;
• it is not a problem to pump liquid under pressure using pumps;
• cleaning is relatively easy.

Tubular

An innovative method in which a plastic pipe with a concrete tip should be driven into the ground and fixed. It is also necessary to organize a drainage ditch, lay insulation, fill the gaps with earth, install a box, a metal cap, and a hip roof.

Yes, this is the most expensive option, but its advantages are obvious and very serious:

• you can organize a fence in close proximity to the house;
• the liquid is as pure as possible, and always;
• the debit is consistently sufficient, which is convenient.

The process of digging a well

Let's begin the actual construction work. All work is done entirely with your own hands, and do not forget about safety precautions. The video in this article will show the entire process of completing the work.

First option

This is how you can do the work if your soil wakes up and you cannot immediately make full-size holes.

So:

• At the location of the future well, we mark it in such a way that the diameter of the well is 10 cm greater than the diameter of the concrete rings used. The hole is dug to a depth that allows the first ring to not sink completely. There should be 8-10 cm above the ground;
• On a trolley, the height of which is also 8-10 cm, the concrete ring is transported to the shaft and lowered vertically. Do not allow the ring to warp, as this will affect the quality of the entire structure. Then we place the next concrete ring, fastening it with three brackets;

Attention: A sealing tape should be placed between the rings to make the joint more airtight. You can even use a simple rope with a diameter of about two cm. It will fill the joint cavities.

• In the center we make a hole 80 cm deeper. Then the hole needs to be dug in a circle so that the concrete ring sinks into the ground by its gravity. If the earth is soft, then it is removed first in the center of the ring; if the earth is hard, then it is removed first under the ring itself, so that nothing interferes with its lowering. Then, when the ring lowers and settles, take out the earth in the center;
• The joining of concrete rings is ensured tightness by laying a tarred hemp rope, which is then treated with a solution based on cement and sand. We lower the rings into the shaft until water appears at the bottom of the well. The resulting water and sand are removed from the well shaft. The well will fill with water within 12 hours;
• The next day it is necessary to remove water from the well again. Cleaning is carried out until the water is completely purified. Then the well is covered and left untouched for 24 hours;
• After this, water and sand are pumped out again and filter gravel or crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the well. First, 10-15 cm of fine fraction, then 30-40 cm of larger gravel. The permissible level of well water is 1.5 meters. This is more than one concrete ring;
• The distance between the walls of the pit and the well shaft must be filled with a mixture of gravel and sand, fixed on the surface of the earth with clay and covered with sand. Clay will prevent rainwater from getting into the well, as well as melted snow in winter.

Second option

This kind of work is perfect for soil that does not wake up and you can do the work using the open method:

• First we make a hole in the ground. It should be approximately 50 cm larger in diameter than the ring;
• Now you should bring the second ring and lower it into the hole. The best way to do this is to use a crane. This is the least secure. Although some people make block structures and use them to do this work. But during their manufacture, special attention should be paid to quiet reliability. After all, the ring doesn’t weigh that much;

Using blocks to lower the ring

• Now you need to put a sealing tape along the contour and then install the second ring. We do this all the way to the top;
• The fastening of the rings is done using metal brackets for the well.

How to dig wells in winter

Digging a well in winter

The instructions indicate that sometimes, for a number of reasons, it is better to dig a well in winter.

Reasons for this may be:

• The groundwater level is at its lowest, which means it will not dry out in the summer.
• In winter it is easier to find labor.
• The cost of building materials and the rings themselves is much lower.

The disadvantages may be:

• Clearing snow from roads for cargo delivery.
• Providing builders with warm housing.

It is known that in winter the ground freezes to about one meter, which is not very difficult to thaw or beat off with hammers.

Subsequent actions are the same as at other times of the year. The mine can be deepened three rings lower, which will make it possible to use water all year round, and the newly dug well can be used in the spring.

Sealing seams

After installing the rings, you need to seal the seams. This is necessary so that the upper wastewater does not penetrate into the well.

We seal the seams

So:

• We make cement mortar. It consists of sand and cement. For M300 we use a proportion of 1/3;
• We cover the seam from the inside of the ring using a spatula;
• After complete hardening, some recommend treating the coating with liquid glass.

Attention: The seams of a well are never sealed with solutions that contain bitumen. This can only spoil the water.

• We make a covering around the well. To do this, the diameter of the well is reduced by a couple of meters. The depth used is about 10-20 cm. This place should simply be concreted. This platform will serve as protection against the penetration of dirty water.

Now you see that the price of drinking water in the house is not that high. The most important thing is to follow the rules for doing the job.

Type and structure

Today, they practically don’t think about how to dig a well with their own hands without rings, because the lion’s share of structures are shaft and tubular, and they are built with the laying of reinforced concrete products. The former are still more common because they are easier to implement, but the latter (even though they require the use of drilling equipment) are rapidly gaining popularity due to the fact that they are advanced.

Mine view

AMETHYST - 02 M Residential building for up to 10 people or up to 2 cubic meters/day.

Aeration unit AS-1054 VO-90

Main table dispenser AquaPro 919H/RO (hot and cold water)

It has a round or, less commonly, square cross-section, and consists of the following parts:

• head (located above ground level);
• barrel (selected length);
• water intake (underground, lower part).

Theoretically, the material for construction can be anything, but if wood was used before, then brick came after it, and then it was the turn of reinforced concrete. The latter are durable and help protect the entire structure from collapses even at a depth of 25-30 m. Their only drawback is the relatively low tightness of the joints, but if they are properly sealed, problems can be avoided. Therefore, in practice today people think mainly about how to dig a well in a country house with their own hands with concrete rings.

How to find an aquifer

Usually the liquid lies between two layers - clay or limestone. These are quite durable rocks, unlike sand, the appearance of which is a characteristic sign that you will soon reach moisture. However, its reserves may not be enough to meet your needs: if there is too little of it, then you have found perched water (and it is not suitable for drinking purposes) and you need to drill further.

Bottom filter

It is necessary to clean the collected medium from silt, dirt, and small fractions of foreign inclusions. It is a three-layer embankment:

• at the very bottom, large and flat cobblestones are laid in 2 rows;
• on top - smaller stones, in a layer 10-15 cm thick;
• there are pebbles or crushed stone on them.

If the bottom is viscous, there must be a floor in front of this structure, the boards of which can pass liquid without problems (without rotting over time).

Types of wells

Mine

Not so long ago, the most common wells were mine ones. Their walls were paved with wooden logs stacked into a frame. They were popular due to the availability of wood. But with the advent of concrete rings, they almost stopped making mine wells, giving preference to more modern analogues. However, outdated construction technology is still in demand among people who value environmental friendliness and tradition.

One of the most critical stages is the choice of wood. It determines how tasty and fresh the water from the well will be. The material must meet the following requirements:

• resistance to moisture;
• dry, straight layer, easy to process;
• not hewn, but planed only on the inside;
• should not affect the taste of water;
• free from any fungi, microorganisms and insects.

As practice shows, the most suitable wood for these purposes is larch. In terms of performance characteristics, oak is also excellent. But it is worth considering that at first it gives the water a taste and colors it brownish. This effect can be avoided by pre-staining the oak. The logs are placed in a natural body of water for a year or two (preferably a river, so that the water is running). Then the material is removed and dried in places free from drafts.

In addition to the listed species, pine, aspen, alder, and elm are used. It is possible to combine different types of wood. The shape of the wells can be different. A square measuring 1.5 x 1.5 meters is considered a classic. Log houses are made not only from logs, but also beams or plates.

Concrete

For production, ready-made rings are most often used, one meter in height and 1-1.5 meters in diameter. They dig a well according to this scheme: they select the soil under the ring, lowering it to its full height, place the next element on top and the cycle repeats. This method is good in cases where drinking water lies shallow - up to 10 meters. If the depth is greater, then a through passage is made to the aquifer, after which the rings are lowered into the trunk and sealed.

To seal the seams, experts recommend using hemp or other non-rotting fibrous material. For compaction, a coating made from cement mortar and liquid glass in equal parts has proven itself to be effective. If rings with locks can be installed without seals, then analogues without corresponding grooves require such protection measures. Otherwise, “upper water” (a mixture from the upper horizons), which often contains manure, mineral fertilizers and other undesirable inclusions, will end up in the well with clean water.

Rings without locks must be fastened together with staples to avoid distortions and cracks during operation. To do this, holes are drilled at a distance of 10-20 cm from the ends. The staples are inserted into them so that the “body” of the screed is on the inside, and the bent ends are on the outside of the concrete circle. After this, the rings are tightened. Upon completion of the main stage of work, a blind area is made around the trunk. It consists of a layer of clay and concrete. I pour the clay in a dense layer up to 1 meter thick and tamp it down. A layer of concrete up to 20 cm thick is poured on top. Thanks to this, rainwater will not get inside.

Tubular (drill)

In cases where the aquifer lies very deep (over 20 meters), the best option would be to install a tube well. It is several times cheaper in cost compared to the mine one and is much more preferable in terms of time consumption.

Methods

Let's look at how to properly dig a water well with concrete rings; There are only two methods here - closed and open. We have already given the general algorithm for their implementation, now we will pay attention to the nuances.

Alternate installation of reinforced concrete products

We remind you of the procedure: place the first of them in a suitable place and begin to remove the earth under the sides from the outside and inside, making sure that the structure falls without distortions, straight down. The verticality of the walls can be controlled using a plumb line. When the building element is level with the surface, roll out the second reinforced concrete product and repeat the sequence of actions, using a shovel. Then the third, removing the soil with a winch.

You need to continue this until you reach the horizon, and then form the bottom, perform waterproofing, and arrange the top.

See how to dig a well with your own hands step by step; the video explains it well.

We will list the advantages of the technology:

• you can see how tightly all the “floors” fit together;
• it is permissible to use rubber gaskets for tightness;
• If there is such support, the walls will not crumble.

The downside, not unreasonably, is considered to be working in cramped conditions (there is not enough space inside the ring for a person), because of which you can go 7-8 m deeper.

Installation of concrete products after reaching the aquifer

We remind you that here the pit is created all at once, to the bottom, but on the condition that there is no soil shedding. But at the first sign of a collapse, it is necessary to lay the ring and return to the original method. If everything is in order, then you will only need to insert them into the shaft at the end, using a manipulator or crane.

The earth is first thrown out with shovels, then lifted in buckets with a tripod and on a winch, then it must be used to fill and compact the gaps between the walls. Verticality is also controlled using a plumb line.

The advantages are that the shaft is wider, which means it is easier to reach greater depth, and sealing can be done from the outside. But it is impossible to check the quality of insulation during construction and it is easy to miss the moment of shedding, and these are disadvantages.

See how in this case the technology of digging a well from concrete rings by hand is implemented, the video is very educational.

Main table dispenser AquaPro 929CH/RO (cooling/heating)

Floor dispenser AquaPro 311 (empty, without cooling)

Floor-standing dispenser AquaPro 6207CH (cooling/heating/room temp.)

Choosing a place for a well

The first issue that needs to be resolved is deciding on a location. When choosing, you should be guided by two criteria: convenience of location and depth of the aquifer. It is advisable that the well with living water be located close to the house and at the same time at a short distance from the beds. Along with these requirements, it is also necessary to take into account how deep the drinking water is. After all, the fact is that within one area the difference in the occurrence of aquifers can reach several meters. And it is difficult to get soil from great depths without using special equipment.

Another problem that can become an insurmountable obstacle is the rocks under the soil layer. It is impossible to predict a stone without special equipment. In this case, all the previously done work will go down the drain. Moreover: you will have to fill in the dug shaft and compact it well so that the soil does not sag over time.

Do you know? There is a fresh water well in the Mediterranean Sea. It is located 500 m from the coast near the capital of Libya, Tripoli. There are similar sources in other areas of the Mediterranean Sea: near the cities of Cannes (France) and San Remo (Italy).

Advantages of manual labor

It beats the machine one in the following points:

• If you follow the process, you can stop immediately when changing the soil, but the drill strictly follows the program.
• If the walls don’t hold, you can put down reinforced concrete, climb inside and continue working, while the liquid mass extracted by the device will fall back.
• It is not difficult to crush the stones that come across with a chipper or a hammer drill and remove them, but the installation itself will not do this.

But there are cases when the use of special equipment is simply necessary, for example, for lifting and installing heavy reinforced concrete products.

Tools

Where to start digging a well yourself? From the preparation of equipment - to complete the work you will need:

• shovels - with a bayonet you will dig, and with a shovel you will throw out the earth;
• buckets and wheelbarrow - for lifting and removing rock;
• pickaxe and crowbar - for destroying dense elements (for example, cobblestones);
• a tripod with a winch or gate - for excavating soil;
• ropes and slings - to hold massive reinforced concrete products in a suspended state;
• plumb lines and spirit level - to control verticality;
• drainage pump - for pumping out liquid penetrating into the barrel;
• a helmet and a belt with a cable - for insurance.

And here we need to talk about taking care of your health.

Preparing for work

You can start digging a well yourself after carrying out some work, but at the very beginning you should understand what this structure is, you need to know the basic technological principles and be sure to follow safety precautions.

Choosing a location

You need to dig a well yourself in the right place. This structure must be placed according to the rules, otherwise you may cause damage, for example, to the structure.

The foundation will simply sag and you won’t understand why. There is a detailed article on our website that tells you how to look for a driver, but there are also rules that should be taken into account when choosing a place.

Looking for a place for a well

So:

• You need to dig a well yourself no closer than thirty meters to the toilet and other places of pollution. It could be a garbage dump or a road;
• After identifying the aquifer, you must also choose a location that is not in a lowland. There, when it rains, water accumulates and the well can become contaminated. It is better to choose a hill;

Attention: You should never build a well in a wetland. The water there will not be potable.

• You should definitely take into account not only the location of buildings at a given time, but also think about what else you want to do on the site. This is necessary so that the well does not interfere.

How to determine the depth of a well

You need to start digging a well by carrying out simple geological surveys to determine the presence of groundwater at the construction site. The depth of their occurrence is determined.

This can be done using special instruments: an aneroid barometer or spirit level. The presence of deep water can be determined by nearby sources.

Tip: When locating a well near a summer cottage, it is enough to use the spirit level readings. If the distance is significant, you need to use a level or aneroid barometer.

There are several ways to determine the depth of water:

• Determination of value using an aneroid barometer. This method is as follows: On the device, the division value is 0.1 millimeters. This corresponds to a one meter difference in height. For example: at an existing well at ground level, the atmospheric pressure shown by the device is 745.8 mm, and at the site of the proposed construction it is 745.3 mm. The difference is 0.5 mm, which means we are digging a well five meters deeper, but this is only if the aquifers are horizontal and lie in the form of a water pool.
• Groundwater often has slopes that resemble groundwater flow. In this case, the depth is determined by interpolating the measurement results, but it gives an approximate result.
• The most reliable way is exploratory drilling before starting work.
• If none of the above methods are suitable, then on a hot summer day you need to observe a reservoir that is located far from the chosen location for the well. The formation of a small fog (haze) over the area in the evening indicates the presence of water; the thicker it is, the closer it is to the surface.

Selecting a build configuration

Every well is a large round or square shaft, dug into the ground to reach artesian water that can be consumed by humans. The depth of such a mine is usually close to 10 meters, but sometimes it can reach 30-30 meters.

The well consists of the following parts:

• The tip , which is above the ground;
• Shafts – deepening of a well;
• Water receiver - the lower part of the well where water collects.

Attention: Do not forget that a water purifying filter must be installed at the bottom of the well shaft. As a rule, the filter is made of a three-layer coating of gravel and crushed stone. In this case, the first layer is small components 10 centimeters thick, the second layer is 15 cm and the third layer is 15 centimeters or more. It happens that the soil at the bottom of the well has a viscous structure, in which case the floor is made of boards with holes for water to enter, and the top needs to be covered with a layer of filter for the bottom.

The well trunk can be made of stone, brick, wood, or concrete. A common and easy option is to use concrete rings. We will tell you about the construction of such a well in more detail.

Safety precautions

Digging a well shaft is a dangerous activity for humans.

Therefore, you should adhere to some simple safety guidelines:

• It is mandatory for the worker to have a helmet to protect against stones and soil falling on his head, which may fall while removing materials from the well;
• During excavation work, it is periodically necessary to check the strength of the rope. To do this, a large and heavy sinker is hung from it;
• It is mandatory to check the reliability of all fastenings of the bucket that pulls out the earth;
• Due to the fact that high humidity and cold soil are bad for your health, do not stay in the well for too long, as you may get sick.

Safety precautions

When thinking about how to quickly dig a deep well yourself, you should take the following precautions:

• go down into the mine only wearing protective headgear;
• work not alone, but with a partner;
• periodically change below, so as not to spend too much time underground, where it is wet and cold;
• immediately bring a person to the surface as soon as they notice that he is feeling unwell (he can hit himself or be poisoned by gases and lose consciousness or orientation in space);
• periodically check the integrity of the ropes and the strength of the buckets.

When can you dig a well?

If you decide to build a well on your site yourself, you should choose the right time to complete this task. If specialized companies with good equipment can carry out this procedure at any time, then you definitely cannot dig a well in winter with improvised means.

In winter, digging a well yourself is quite problematic, but it is still possible. True, the soil must be favorable

You should wait for optimal weather conditions, that is, drought. While it rains, you can prepare all the necessary equipment and materials. The groundwater level is at its lowest, usually from late summer to early autumn. Therefore, it is best to plan to dig a well in August-September.

The first video is about how you can dig a well yourself, without relying on friends and acquaintances.

In this case, you do not need to hire a team of professionals.

How deep should a well be dug?

We determine the depth of the well using the example of the structure of the structure of the well itself

The depth of the future well depends on the chosen place for digging. For example, if you need a well near a river, then it will be easier to get to the water. At the same time, it is almost impossible to independently determine where to start work so that the waters are closer without special equipment. Specialists with experience working with soil can help you with this. You can also consult your neighbors. If they have a well on the property, they will be able to tell you what depth is optimal.

A well for a summer residence should be located at least thirty meters away from toilets, sewers, and other groundwater pollutants. The optimal depth of the well is considered to be 5-10 meters. Although in rare cases it can even reach 30-40 meters. Typically, the appearance of black clay indicates that you are approaching a water vein.

How to determine whether the water in a well is suitable for drinking

In order to understand what kind of water is available on your site, you should do geological exploration of the area. If there are already communication networks in the yard, then such data probably already exists. If not, you can again ask neighbors who have a well. They will be able to tell you where the waters suitable for drinking are concentrated.

The picture shows at what depth the water is suitable for drinking, as well as the main types of soil that need to be overcome during digging

You can check your water quality by contacting your local SES. As for more professional methods, these include electro-vertical sounding. This technology allows you to correctly determine what water accumulates underground. But, as practice shows, one method is not enough for a 100% result. The most correct result can be obtained only in combination with other methods.

Safety precautions

A few words about safety precautions. Our health is everything - we can’t dig a well without it))

It should be understood that digging a well is a complex process that requires care from the performer. For this reason, due attention should be paid to safety precautions. To avoid risks, just follow a few simple rules:

1. First of all, you need to wear a helmet when working. After all, at any moment a handful of earth or a stone can fall on a person’s head.
2. While digging a hole, you should periodically check the integrity of the rope.
3. It is recommended to periodically inspect fastening systems and containers designed for raising soil.
4. You can stay in the mine for a limited amount of time.
5. It should be borne in mind that dampness and cold have a negative impact on health.

Useful tips

Even if you watch a dozen videos on how to dig a well from concrete rings, the video may not mention the important points that need to be taken into account. It doesn’t matter, we’ll tell you about these nuances right now:

• First, study the geology of the site and the surrounding area - this will help you choose a more accurate location.
• In winter, start working only after two to three weeks of frost; if there are no frosts, postpone the issue until the end of summer.
• With the open method, make a hole 1 reinforced concrete piece more than is necessary on paper.
• Carefully deepen the lower level of the leak.
• Use metal brackets to connect reinforced concrete products - this way you will strengthen the overall structure.
• Lay a wooden board at the bottom (preferably made of aspen) and don’t forget about the three-layer filter either.

Where to dig a well

Wealthy homeowners turn to professionals for help: geological exploration of the territory allows them to accurately determine the location of aquifers and the point of their maximum proximity to the surface.

How are the water layers located?

For less wealthy summer residents, there are folk methods for choosing a suitable location for building a well shaft on a plot or cottage:

1. Study of the geographical features of the territory. Aquifers are located closer to the surface in lowlands and depressions; in elevated areas, underground sources lie deep.
2. Fog tracking. The appearance of fog on hot summer evenings indicates the proximity of natural water horizons.
3. Flora analysis. The presence of plants such as sedge, gooseberry, coltsfoot, alder, birch, and spruce allows us to judge the shallow location of groundwater.
4. Fauna observations. Domestic animals react to high humidity: dogs dig holes in damp areas on hot days, creating cool rookeries; clusters of midges and mosquitoes hovering over certain areas make it possible to judge the proximity of water.
5. Dowsing method. It is based on surveying the territory with special devices - frames, which are made from half-meter pieces of brass wire with a cross-section of 2 mm, the ends of which (10 cm) are bent at right angles and act as handles. The rotation of this homemade device serves as evidence of the proximity of an underground source.
6. Exploration drilling. Allows you to determine the location of the aquifer. Using a standard garden drill, a well is formed at a selected point to determine the presence or absence of water.

The location of the well.

Since no single method gives a reliable result, the optimal solution is a combination of several methods.

It is not recommended to place the well closer than 8 m from the foundations of permanent buildings. The constant dynamics of ground flows can weaken the foundation of a residential building, disrupting its stability.

How to make a mine from concrete rings

If you look for videos from the series “digging a well at the dacha with your own hands,” the video will probably contain information about the arrangement. We have already described in detail the method of laying concrete products, both open and closed, now let’s say a few words about commissioning.

It is necessary to protect the walls of the structure from the outside - from high water - and also to seal the joints inside - to prevent the formation of cracks and destruction in the most dangerous places. After which you need to install a frame, a metal cap and a hip roof - to protect the source from precipitation and debris. Well, organize a blind area for a convenient approach.

We are building a well at the dacha

When living in a country house or country house, you need a source of water. Which will increase comfort. As an option, a well. How to build a well at your dacha with your own hands?

It is not worth building a well in spring or rainy summer. The presence of groundwater will greatly complicate the task.

Types of wells

There are two types of wells:

• Concrete
• Wood.

A concrete well is assembled from special concrete rings. This type of well is the most convenient to assemble and operate. A wooden well is beautiful and environmentally friendly, but expensive and difficult to assemble.

Material

Concrete. One of the most durable materials. Concrete rings are cast at factories. Reinforcement is used in manufacturing to increase strength.

For a country well, it is best to use wall rings; they are suitable for all types of wells. KS - 10 or KS - 15 (10 and 15 are the internal diameter in decimeters).

Tree. For wells, timber from alder, oak, aspen, elm and hornbeam is used. Before laying, the wood is subject to special treatment, which can significantly increase its service life.

Construction plan:

1. Selecting a location
2. Inventory preparation
3. Well assembly.
4. Surface water protection

Selecting a location

The well should be located in close proximity to housing, but not adjacent to it.

All landfills and cesspools must be located at a remote distance.

Exclude high waters. This term refers to the water that is stored in the first waterproof layer. This water is usually fed by precipitation and melted snow. During a drought it may disappear altogether. There is also a large amount of it in swampy areas.

When the main criteria are met, you can begin the search. There are many ways such as: aluminum frames, willow vines, glass jars, observation of natural phenomena and animal behavior. Or call a geologist who will indicate the location and depth of the well down to the centimeter.

Inventory preparation

You will need:

• Tripod
• Winch
• Shovel (2 pcs. short and long handle)
• Ladder (2 pcs. rope and metal)
• Scrap
• What to strengthen the mine with
• Water pump
• We take care of lighting (wire with light bulb, spotlight, etc.)
• Device for lifting buckets of earth and water
• Several metal buckets
• Hammer

When everything is ready, we begin building the well.