Connecting the boiler to the water supply - all available methods

How to provide hot water to a home where hot water supply is not provided or is regularly turned off? Using a heater. On sale you can find convenient devices of various designs and performance.

They are relatively easy to install and manage. The most important stage of installing the device is connecting it to the water supply system of the house. If the connection diagram of the water heater to the water supply is strictly followed, the unit will faithfully serve for many years.

When installing such a complex electrical appliance yourself, you should take into account a number of important nuances.

The main mistakes made when installing a boiler

If the homeowner decides to independently connect the storage water heater, under no circumstances should the following things be done:

  • replace the components supplied with the device;
  • connect the device to the AC power supply if there is no water in the tank;
  • disassemble the device when connecting a water heating device to the electrical network;
  • turn on or use an ungrounded device;
  • operate equipment with inappropriate water pressure parameters in the central water supply;
  • Completely drain the water from the tank while the storage boiler is operating.

And most importantly, under no circumstances should safety precautions be neglected when connecting a boiler - a fairly powerful electrical appliance. If you have any doubts about the correctness of carrying out installation work yourself, it is advisable to seek help from professionals.

To understand what water heaters are, how to connect such devices and what are the benefits of using them, you do not need to be a professional electrician or builder. All installation work can be performed by every person who is at least slightly familiar with the structure of the water supply system and can understand the simplest electrical circuits. The main thing is attentiveness, following all safety rules and, of course, desire, without which it is better not to take on such work on your own.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=HA9JlpwQXTI

Connecting a boiler to a water supply system made of different materials

Often the consumer is faced with the task of how to properly connect a boiler to a water supply system made of various materials. It is too expensive to call plumbing specialists for these purposes; in many situations, the problem can be dealt with on your own.

If the pipeline is equipped with water sockets (fittings with internal threads), then the easiest way to connect to it is with a flexible liner; if the diameters do not match, adapter couplings (fittings) are used. Flexible hoses can be rubber with metal braid, bellows made of corrugated stainless steel, polymer made of various types of plastics. When it is necessary to insert into a pipeline made of various materials, the following technologies are used.

Connecting the boiler to a steel pipe

Rice. 10 Examples of inserting into a metal pipeline

Insertion into a metal pipeline

To supply hot or cold water, in some places a steel pipeline is still used, sometimes it is mounted from copper, and the following tapping technologies are used to connect a boiler to them:

Overhead clamps. A typical clamp is a part consisting of two halves, one of which is equipped with a side threaded outlet designed to connect an adapter coupling and any type of threaded pipe. When installing the clamp, a hole is drilled in the pipe casing with a metal drill, an elastic gasket is placed on the pipe and it is compressed by the two halves of the part using four bolts at the edges.

Tees. Often, a small section is cut out of a steel pipe, threads are cut at the ends of the broken pipes, and a tee with a side threaded outlet is screwed into the gap (sometimes it is welded). Next, a flexible liner or pipeline of any type is connected to the threaded pipe of the tee.

Compression couplings . The retail chain sells compression couplings for connecting metal pipes with a threaded outlet, which have the commercial name Gebo. To install the Gebo coupling, a pipe fragment is cut out of the pipeline, one of the sections is bent and the coupling is put on it, after which the ends of the pipes are aligned and the coupling is pulled onto the second section. Next, tighten the union nuts of the coupling, securely fixing it on two pipe sections made of steel or copper.

The procedure for connecting a water heater - preliminary work

Preliminary work begins with the installation of the water heater. Moreover, first you need to choose the optimal location of the column or boiler.

The first type of heating devices - the column - should be located close to the free valve of the household gas pipeline (no further than 2-3 meters), in a well-ventilated room.

A storage boiler can be installed literally anywhere. After all, electricity and water can be supplied anywhere. But before connecting the boiler to the water supply, it is necessary to take into account the heavy weight of the filled heater and the accumulative “nature” of this device, which limits the volume of hot water consumed.

Having decided on the location of the water heating device, you need to attach the column or boiler to the supporting surface. For the boiler, this stage proceeds as follows:

  • Holes are drilled in the wall for anchor bolts, the position of which can be determined by “trying on” the empty (and light) water heater to the surface.
  • Next, the boiler is “attached” to the wall, driving mounting anchors into the holes through the eyes in the heater brackets.
  • You then simply tighten the anchor bolts, locking the fastener into the hole.
  • Finally, you connect the heater to the mains. To do this, it is advisable to draw a separate line from the central panel using a 4 mm three-core cable. Well, as a plug and socket you should use a separate residual current device - a fuse, to which the electrical line and cord from the boiler are connected. Moreover, the installation of a separate line and RCD must be completed before connecting the boiler to the water supply.

A gas water heater requires a lot of trouble:

  • First, you put a galvanized sheet on the wall, the dimensions of which coincide with the supporting edge of the speaker body. However, galvanization can be replaced with tiles or fire-resistant plaster.
  • Next, you “try on” the speaker to the wall, marking the location of the fasteners along the lugs of the brackets of your speaker body.
  • The next step is drilling the mounting holes.
  • Next, you mount the column on the anchor bolts, driving them through the eyes and tightening them until they stop.
  • The last stage - connecting the dispenser to the gas pipeline - is carried out only by a representative of the territorial gas industry. Self-connection may cause an accident or a fine for illegal tapping into a gas pipeline.

After completing the installation of the heater, you can proceed to connecting it to the “cold” water supply.

Calculation of water heater volume

Once the appropriate boiler option has been selected, it is necessary to calculate its volume. Only after this will it be possible to proceed to the analysis of boiler installation diagrams. If one person lives in the house and uses only one or two water consumption points, it will be enough to connect the boiler to a 40-liter water supply. If two people live and use two points of consumption, a tank of 70 liters is needed. If a family of three lives in a house, then you need a tank of 100 liters. If the family consists of 4-5 people, then it is better to install a tank of 130-150 liters. It is also necessary to consider how often the water will be used.

Preparing to connect

When planning to install a boiler yourself, you need to carefully work out the work plan. This stage is a very important one and any mistake made by the master can complicate the further process.

The stage includes the following actions:

  1. The master performs calculations and selects the necessary anchors. The thickness of the mounting bolts is set depending on the weight of the filled tank. Since the fasteners will be constantly under load, it is necessary to allow for an error in the calculation. It is better to take massive anchors.
  2. Make a hole in the wall and screw a metal base plate to it. The unit will hang on it.
  3. A metal strip is attached to the heating device, which is mounted on the wall. For reliability, it is tightened with bolts.

It must be taken into account that the heater must be positioned strictly horizontally or vertically. Even a slight tilt is unacceptable, so marking is carried out using a mounting level. After completing the preparatory work, they begin to connect the device to the water supply system.

Water heater and autonomous water supply

In private households, not centralized, but autonomous water supply is usually used. In such a situation, the use of a storage water heater is completely justified and possible. But the connection diagram must be slightly changed. The source of water in this case is usually a tank installed in the attic or upper floor.


This diagram shows the features of connecting a storage water heater to an autonomous water supply system if the vertical distance between the heating device and the water tank is less than two meters

You need to measure the vertical distance between this tank and the water heater. If it is less than two meters, then a tee is installed at the outlet of the tank to divert part of the cold water to the heating device so that the pipe is above the level at which the heater is installed. A tee with a check valve and a drain outlet is installed at the inlet of the cold water pipeline into the device.

If the vertical distance from the water tank to the heater exceeds two meters, then the outlet is performed lower than the level of installation of the heater. In this case, at the cold water inlet into the device, a tee is installed to drain excess water into the sewer system, and a check valve is connected just below.


This diagram demonstrates the option of connecting a storage water heater in a house with an autonomous water supply system, if the vertical distance between the tank and the heater is more than two meters

Before installing a water heater, you should measure the water pressure in the autonomous system of the house. If it exceeds the level of six bar, it is necessary to supplement the installation diagram with a special reduction gearbox. Excessive water pressure entering the heater can cause equipment failure.

Electrical connection

To begin with, we want to introduce you to the basic rules for connecting a water heater to the electrical network. Compliance with these recommendations will allow installation to be carried out as safely and efficiently as possible.

  • The socket for the boiler must be located in a place inaccessible to water splashes. Experts strongly advise using special waterproof sockets for these purposes.
  • The water heater can only be turned on when the ground is connected to the electrical outlet. This can be done using a three-core wire (in this case, the socket must also be designed for three poles).

After making sure that all safety rules will be followed, you can proceed directly to work. The procedure will be as follows:

  • measure the distance between the installation location of the water heater and the outlet;
  • disassemble the device plug into elements;
  • remove the insulating material from the cable;
  • we strip the veins using side cutters;
  • armed with a soldering iron, we connect the wires to the plug contacts (red - to phase, yellow/green/black - to ground; blue - to zero);
  • remove the water heater panel and open the contacts;
  • we strip the conductors at the opposite end of the cable;
  • connect them to the contacts of the device and return the panel to its place.

You can connect to the electrical network differently - connect the water heater directly to the panel. In this case, you need to proceed as follows:

  • lay the cable from the device to the electrical panel;
  • We install an automatic machine near the water heater;
  • we run the cable through the machine;
  • remove about 100 mm of insulating material from the cable;
  • we expose the phase from the machine;
  • We connect the phase from the machine to the upper terminal, and from the water heater to the lower terminal;
  • remove the insulating material at both ends of the cable, free the cores;
  • remove the boiler cover, connect the wires to the device terminal;
  • turn off the current supply and connect the heater to the electrical panel.

The following video shows water heater connection diagrams and their descriptions, which will help you understand how to connect the boiler correctly.

Step-by-step instructions for connecting a storage water heater

Installation is divided into several stages:

  • fastening to the place of use - wall, installation;
  • cold water connection;
  • removal of hot water to water collection points;
  • electricity connection;
  • testing and commissioning.

Let's look at them in order.

Wall mount

The weight of the boiler is usually quite large; approximate figures can be seen in the table below.

Important: the weight indicated is for an EMPTY device! The total weight of the connected and operating tank exceeds the nominal parameter by the weight of the collected water (1 liter weighs 1 kg).

That is, for a heating tank with a volume of 150 liters, the weight of the product together with water will be about 190 kg. This weight is distributed over two, or at best (rarely) four attachment points. Accordingly, one hook/anchor/bolt accounts for up to 95 kg of weight.

Accordingly, the fastening must be very reliable. On a capital wall (reinforced concrete, solid brick), it is permissible to use ordinary anchor bolts. On a wall made of foam or aerated concrete or hollow brick, it is better to use special fasteners. The same applies to mounting heavy tanks on old main walls.

Anchor bolt with hook is convenient for both mounting strips with holes and regular strips without holes

Anchor bolt installation diagram

If the wall thickness is not enough for normal fastening of the anchor bolt, it is necessary to perform through fastening, but it is better to use special installations, examples of which are shown below.

Options with additional fixation to the ceiling - a reinforced concrete floor slab provides additional guarantees

If the boiler is located in a separate technical room, you can use a floor installation.

It should also be taken into account that different models may vary greatly in both the shape of the mounting strips and their location. This is especially important for models with the possibility of vertical and horizontal placement.

Connecting the boiler to the water supply

Below is a diagram of connecting the water heater to the water supply. It is typical for houses and apartments that have (at least theoretically) a centralized supply of hot water.

Manufacturers usually provide a connection diagram in the product instructions. It needs to be studied, since some nuances may not coincide with the generally accepted version.

The following points should be taken into account:

  • Usually the pressure in the (domestic) water supply is about 6 atmospheres. On the first floors of multi-storey buildings, the pressure in the pipes can exceed this value, so the circuits contain an element such as a pressure reducer (optional). This reducer reduces the average constant pressure to normal and allows you to “stop” short-term changes. The photo below shows piston (left) and diaphragm (right) gearboxes. Both can be connected to a pressure gauge with an axial connection;

  • if the water in the system is of poor quality, it is very advisable to install a coarse filter BEFORE the outlet to the tank (or better yet, at the entrance to the apartment/house), and an additional filter “at the approaches” to the boiler. This will significantly increase the service life of the device, especially with a “wet heating element”;

  • the use of flexible hoses for connection is undesirable, especially for discharging heated water, since under the influence of consistently high temperature and pressure they quickly fail. It is permissible to use flexible hoses only if they are of guaranteed high quality;

    Please note: in the photo, the copper pipe is cut and sealed, but there is practically no water pressure in this area, since two outlets for water intake points are installed on the way to it. If it is necessary to cut a centralized water supply pipe and there is no way to relieve pressure in the adjacent area, it is better to use threaded plugs

How to connect a boiler to electricity

The connection can be made in different ways, but most often this is the boiler connection diagram.

Using a three-wire wire (calculation of cross-section based on power), the output is carried out from the meter through the RCD and the machine either directly to the tank or to the outlet. The socket is also selected according to power and permissible current.

This diagram shows the most commonly used wire colors for the water heater itself - yellow-green, cyan (blue) and red (brown).

The photo shows that the colors of the tank wires match the colors of the cable wires. Connection via terminals simplifies installation and eliminates the need for twisting

This shows how the cable is connected directly to the connectors on the bottom panel of the tank.

For residents of multi-storey buildings, the issue of difficulty in grounding the device is relevant. If there is no “ground” and it is not possible to establish a full-fledged deep grounding (which is quite possible in a private house), it is sometimes recommended to connect the “ground” of the tank to the “zero” of the meter.

If it is not possible to extend a power outlet, we recommend considering French Atlantic water heaters. These are the quietest, most reliable, least serviced and most economical water heaters. Of all the boilers that are offered for sale on the Russian market.

If conventional water heaters need to be serviced annually, Atlantic's service is performed TWICE less frequently. And it costs three times less than servicing a typical inexpensive Chinese water heater.

Atlantic boilers can be plugged into a regular outlet. Compared to other water heaters, they consume 15-20% less energy due to the increased area of ​​the heating element. By the way, Atlantic has a proprietary development of the company - a dry steatite heating element. The service life of such a heating element is up to 20 years. This is ten times longer than the “wet” heating elements that are installed in most inexpensive water heaters of other brands.

Atlantic's tanks are coated with a special enamel with titanium dioxide, and therefore they are practically non-corrosive. And due to the magnesium anode, scale practically does not form inside. Therefore, Atlantic operate very quietly and economically on all types of water.

Atlantic factories are located all over the world, except China (this is probably why Atlantic is also called the most UN-Chinese water heaters).

Atlantic water heaters have the longest warranty on the market - 8 years. Almost all Chinese boilers are no more than 5 years old.

Important: grounding to pipes, reinforcement of monolithic structures, metal parts in the walls and floor of a home is unacceptable!

Grounding for an apartment (house)

Grounding for a private house, the site must be located at a distance of at least 1.5 m from a residential building

What is required for installation?

Before installing an electric or gas boiler, you need to allocate a suitable place for it, taking into account the following points:

  • placement of a water heater in an apartment or private house should be done taking into account ease of use and maintenance;
  • it must be taken into account that when emptying or repairing the apparatus, a significant part of the water may spill onto the floor;
  • It is convenient to connect the water heater yourself when the water supply and electrical networks are nearby and in the same room;
  • Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a gas boiler involves connecting a pipeline supplying natural gas to the room.

Based on the listed conditions, the installation and connection of a storage water heater can be performed in the following areas of a private house or apartment:

  • kitchen - above the sink;
  • bathroom - above the bath;
  • boiler room - above the tiled floor.

Before deciding how to connect the boiler to the water supply, you need to hang it from the wall. To complete all work, you will need an electric drill with an impact function (or a hammer drill), carbide-tipped drill bits and a standard set of plumbing tools, including a gas and adjustable wrench. The boiler connection diagram is assembled from the following elements and materials:

  • check valve with safety valve in one housing (usually included with the boiler);
  • bronze tee DN 15 (1/2");
  • ball valve DN 15 (1/2") - 3 pcs., 2 of them - with American connection;
  • pipes for connection (usually metal-polymer);
  • FUM tape, flax or special thread for sealing joints.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=HA9JlpwQXTI

There is also an electrical diagram for connecting the boiler, according to which it is necessary to purchase differential circuit breakers for a current of 16 A (2 pcs.), a socket and plug with a grounding contact, as well as a power cable of the required length. The connection of a device operating on natural gas is carried out using a gas hose.

Tools and materials

The set of tools and materials required to connect the water heater to the water supply system may vary depending on the features of the device.

A novice master can focus on the following approximate list:

  • hammer drill with a set of attachments;
  • wrench and adjustable wrench;
  • straight and Phillips screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • wire cutters;
  • pliers, etc.

You will also need pipes and fittings to connect the heater to the plumbing system. Means of sealing joints are required: flax thread, FUM tape, special paste.

It doesn’t hurt to stock up on a pair of connecting hoses, two or three shut-off valves and the same number of tees in advance.

Hose for boiler connection
To connect the boiler to the water supply, you can use special flexible hoses of a suitable size, but not too long

Only fastening elements are usually supplied with the heater, and they are not always suitable for a particular situation.

For example, if you plan to install the device on a wall with a thick finishing layer, you should stock up with sufficiently long fasteners.

Features of connecting a flow-through boiler

The flow-through design of an electric boiler, as in the photo, is installed directly into a branch of the water supply system intended for supplying hot water.

  1. The water supply in the central pipeline is cut off.
  2. At the point where the heating device is inserted, the pipe is cut, creating a rupture.
  3. Shut-off valves are attached to the ends of the breaks, which will allow repairs to be carried out in the future without shutting off the central water supply.
  4. Hoses connecting the boiler with shut-off valves are screwed onto the inlet and outlet pipes of the flow-through water heating system.

When independently carrying out work on dismantling heating equipment, instead of the central water supply, turn off the tap installed on the inlet pipe and only after that on the outlet pipe. Also, when using a flow-through water heating device, first turn on the water and only after that the heating device. If there is no need for hot water, then turn off the power supply and then the water.

Figuring out how to connect a boiler correctly is not that difficult, the main thing is to have the desire. But to be more confident, you can practice on pipe scraps so as not to spoil the main elements of the system. This will allow you to gain experience and avoid stupid and unnecessary mistakes.

Examples of connecting a boiler to a water supply

The nuances of connecting an instantaneous water heater

Connecting an instantaneous water heater to the water supply system of a house/apartment is even easier than a storage one. It is enough to follow the general principles of working with equipment of this kind (and the recommendations given above), as well as the connection diagrams proposed by the manufacturer.

All the main elements of the circuit are repeated; a drain valve, adapters from the heater pipes to the water supply pipes, and a connection to the electrical network are also required here.

Experts recommend:

  • install the device in close proximity to the water intake point - sink, shower, kitchen sink. In this case, it is necessary to take into account humidity zones and use moisture-proof sockets, and also be careful about the waterproofing of electrical elements;
  • if the cold water connection pipes are made of metal, they must be connected to the inlet pipe of the heater through a dielectric bushing (included in the delivery set);
  • since the power of the device can range from 1 to 27 kW, devices with a consumption of more than 8 kW must be connected to a 280 V network with a cable of four or five cores;
  • Before turning on for the first time, you should “blow out” the system to ensure that the main tank of the heater is filled and there are no air pockets in the pipes/hoses.

It is important to understand: an instantaneous water heater provides hot water constantly (if there is a power supply), but does not provide a large flow of liquid!

We recommend watching a video about connecting a conventional flow-through heater and the so-called “instant water heating tap.”

Step-by-step instructions for installing a storage boiler

The installation diagram for a storage boiler is a little more complicated. Here you will need to correctly route the pipeline, securely secure the tank, and make electrical connections.

Choosing a location for the tank and its installation

The storage container takes up a certain space in the room, so it must be placed efficiently so as not to take up unnecessary space. But at the same time, the boiler should be located as close as possible to the water supply points. The remote location of the water tap from the heater increases the wait for hot water to arrive.

Convenient placement of a storage boiler with a separate bathroom

The mounting location is selected according to the layout of the room:

  • The layout in a private house is different from apartments. Here the bathroom, toilet and kitchen can be located far from each other, and one boiler must supply hot water to all rooms. Here you need to determine the important room where heated water should be supplied first and install a water heater closer to it;
  • The traditional layout of the apartment provides for the combination of all these rooms, so choosing the location of the tank here will be easier.

Most often, the tank is installed above the toilet. It does not take up useful space and is located close to the sewer, which makes it convenient to drain water from the safety valve. The unit is secured to the wall with anchors. A water tank has a lot of weight, so if the wall is loose, an additional support is welded under it from a profile pipe.

Connecting the water supply

The optimal connection option is considered to be a circuit with the ability to drain water from the container.

The step-by-step execution of the work looks like this:

  1. The house is disconnected from the cold water supply, and the hot water riser in the apartment is additionally shut off. The collection of all components of the circuit begins from the water heater suspended on the wall. To seal the connections, flax or FUM tape is wound around the threads.
  2. At the bottom of the tank there are two threaded pipes. On the right is the cold water inlet, marked in blue, and on the left is the hot water outlet, marked in red. Packing begins with cold water.
  3. A brass tee is screwed onto the inlet pipe. It must be turned with a transverse hole in a convenient direction to drain the water. A ball valve is screwed into the same hole through a brass adapter. A pipe with a hose for draining water is connected to it. A ball valve is also screwed into the downward thread of the tee to shut off the supply of cold water inside the container.
  4. Now it’s time for the most important thing – the safety unit. The boiler is equipped with a safety valve, which is mounted immediately behind the lower valve on the tee. To install it correctly, there is a guide arrow on the body. On the side of the valve there is a fitting for bleeding water. A transparent reinforced hose is attached to it with a clamp and lowered into the sewer.
  5. Original valves are not always reliable, so they often buy a “safety group” separately. It consists of a check valve installed on the tap coming out of the bottom thread of the tee. The safety valve is installed separately on the middle outlet of the tee.
  6. Next, it remains to supply cold water. This can be done with any pipes, for example, metal-plastic or eco-plastic, if desired. In order not to cut the main water supply pipe, the connection can be made through a tee, installing it on the threaded connection of the toilet tank or washbasin tap.
  7. The hot water unit is assembled in the same way as the cold one, only without a valve. In a private house, from the outlet of hot water from the boiler, pipelines are laid to water supply points. In the apartment, the water heater outlet is connected to the hot water supply pipeline. In this case, when the boiler is operating, close the tap on the riser supplying centralized hot water.

At this point, the water heater is connected to the water supply system, all that remains is to connect the electrical wiring and can be used for its intended purpose.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=HA9JlpwQXTI

Types of electric water heaters

Two types of devices are most popular among buyers: storage-type devices, also called boilers, and instantaneous water heaters.


Water boilers: a necessary modern attribute in the bathroom

The first ones function as follows: cold water enters a special tank equipped with a heating element.

There it is heated to the required temperature and then supplied to the water supply system. In a flow-through heater, there is no storage tank; the water is heated as it passes through a special flask in which the heating element is located.

Therefore, the procedure for connecting different types of devices to the water supply system varies significantly.

Boilers are easier to install, they are usually cheaper than flow-through heaters and are less demanding on the quality of the electrical network than flow-through devices.

Therefore, storage units are much more popular. Flow-through heaters are installed as close as possible to the point of hot water collection, for example, directly on the water tap.

The device allows you to get hot water almost instantly, but heating costs will be quite high.

Connection to different types of pipes

It should be taken into account that the diagram for connecting the boiler to the water supply may differ. It depends on the pipes. The most difficult work will be if steel pipes are installed in the apartment. They are difficult to shorten or lengthen without additional equipment. The master may need a grinder and other equipment. Each case is discussed in detail on video.

Polypropylene pipes

To carry out the work, you will additionally need a soldering iron and a wood file. Tees and couplings for connections must be selected from the source material. A polypropylene coupling with metal thread is the best solution; it is reliable.

The work process is simple if the pipes are on the surface. If the communications are embedded in the wall, the top covering will have to be opened to carry out the work. It is impossible to make a connection without damaging the finish. This will require the apartment owner to spend additional money on cosmetic repairs.

Metal-plastic pipes

Metal-plastic pipes most often pass along the surface, so there is no need to additionally tap the walls. Fittings are required for installation. Any connection scheme can be used. Tees are used for insertion. A heating device is connected to them through auxiliary pipes or flexible tubes

Steel pipes

You can do without welding when working with steel pipes. To do this you will have to buy a special tee. It looks like a clamp with a bend. The principle of use is simple, it is put on the pipe and the position is fixed with clamps. For a tight fit, a seal is used. It is prohibited to use dry welding for this purpose. The reliability of this substance is not enough for the system to fully operate.

Before installing the adapter, the pipes must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, rust and traces of old paint. A threaded hole is made in the pipeline. It is needed to connect the tap and underwater hose.

Connection sequence

When installing a heating device, a safety valve is required. It will reduce the risk of a dangerous situation and ensure full operation of the device.

When ensuring self-installation, you need to proceed according to the following scheme:

  • a tee is connected to the pipe;
  • install a shut-off valve to drain remaining water;
  • connect the tap to the adapter;
  • connect a fuse with a drain outlet;
  • install a shut-off valve.

In some cases, a filter and thermostat are connected. A special filter is required if the water in the pipeline is hard. It will prevent the formation of scale on the heating element and the walls of the container.

How to install an instantaneous pressure water heater

Prepare tools and materials

  • Water heater;
  • hammer drill or impact drill;
  • concrete drill;
  • drill for ceramics;
  • level;
  • hammer;
  • spanners;
  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • dowels or screws;
  • FUM tape;
  • 2 flexible hoses;
  • 2 tees with a diameter of ½ inch;
  • 2 taps DN15;
  • PVS cable 3 × 4;
  • difavtomat 25 A.

Select installation location

Unlike compact non-pressure models, pressure flow units are capable of providing hot water to several points at once. They can be installed anywhere, depending on the possibility of connecting to a water supply, but it is better to be closer to the device where hot water will be used most often.

In an apartment, the space under the sink, in a niche with communications in the bathroom, or simply on one of the walls next to the cold and hot water pipes is suitable for this. The main thing is to prevent splashes from getting on the body and provide easy access to it in case of repairs.

Secure the water heater


YouTube channel Clage Russia
Using the template from the kit, mark and drill holes for mounting the water heater with a hammer drill. Insert the dowels into them and securely fix the duct to the wall using screws. Check with a level that the device is installed horizontally and vertically.

On some models, you will first have to remove the front panel to install the water heater on the mounting plate. After connecting to the water supply and electricity, it will need to be returned to its place.

Connect to water supply

Like a boiler, a pressure instantaneous water heater needs to supply cold water to the inlet directly from the riser or any place in the apartment's wiring, and connect a flexible hose to the outlet to connect to the hot water line behind the DHW riser tap.

Install ball valves on the outlet fittings to turn off the device if necessary. Seal the threads with FUM tape. Place tees on the cold and hot water pipes and connect their outlets to the corresponding taps on the water heater with a flexible liner.

Connect to the mains


YouTube channel Clage Russia
First of all, make sure that the power allocated to the apartment is sufficient to operate the selected water heater. There must be enough of it in reserve, otherwise the machines will turn off when the water is heated.

Due to their high power, pressure flow units are usually connected not to a socket, but directly to the electrical panel through a difautomatic device with a current rating corresponding to it. In this case, a three-core cable with a cross-section of 4 or 6 mm² is used.

Do a test run

Close the faucet on the hot water riser and open the shut-off valves on the water heater. Turn on the hot water at the nearest faucet and wait a few seconds until it flows in a steady stream without jerking.

Apply power to the water heater circuit breaker and activate the heat. Turn on the hot water and make sure everything is working.

The principle of drawing water from a tank

There is one correct scheme for connecting a storage water heater, taking into account the features of its design and allowing, if necessary, to quickly empty the tank. This need arises for the following reasons:

  • scheduled cleaning of the tank and heating element from scale;
  • occurrence of a malfunction;
  • moving or replacing the device with a new one;
  • emptying a water heater in a country house or in a house with periodic heating in winter.

Connecting the water heater to the water supply, the diagram of its installation and placement must take into account that water is drawn from the upper zone of the tank. This is explained by the fact that at the top the water is the hottest, and in the lower zone it is replenished with a cold flow if there is a water supply in the hot water supply system. Selection occurs through a vertical tube, the cut of which is located in the upper zone.

Water from the container must not be allowed to return to the cold water supply system, so the boiler is connected to the water supply through a check valve. If the pressure in the network drops as a result of turning off the water, the valve will prevent the contents of the tank from flowing back into the pipe.

As a result of the standard connection of the boiler to the water supply, it will not be possible to quickly empty it by opening the hot water tap. Even unscrewing the hot water pipe from the fitting will not have an effect, since the water intake is located too high, and there is a check valve on the cold side. The drainage problem is solved by a simple diagram of connecting the water heater to the water supply system, assembled at the installation stage of the device.

Standard connection diagram

A person who has a general understanding of the wiring of the water supply network on an apartment scale and the principle diagram of the operation of a storage electric water heater will not be difficult to understand the procedure for connecting it to cold and hot water supply pipes.

Boiler connection diagram in an apartment

Boiler connection diagram in an apartment

  • So, you need to supply cold water to the boiler. This is done by inserting (installing) a tee in the most convenient place under specific conditions.
  • A safety group must be installed on the supply pipeline - one or more special valves. Their importance and installation rules will be discussed below in a separate section of the article.
  • The heated water outlet pipeline cuts into the local residential hot water supply network - directly to the passing pipe - through an installed tee, or, preferably, to the collector. If the apartment is connected to a centralized hot water network, a tap must be installed that will cut off, as necessary, the internal network from the common riser.

    Scheme for the general connection of the apartment to hot water supply

    Scheme for the general connection of an apartment to hot water supply

  • This generally accepted scheme can be supplemented with some elements. Thus, many craftsmen prefer to install tees with taps before entering the boiler along both hot and cold pipes, making it easy to empty the electric heater tank for maintenance or repair work. This makes the installation process somewhat more complicated, but provides certain convenience in the future.
  • If pressure surges often occur in the cold water supply network, or the water pressure goes beyond the permissible values ​​for a particular boiler, the installation of a water reducer will be required. It will equalize the pressure and protect the electric heater from water hammer.

    Thermostatic valve

    Thermostatic valve

  • Another addition could be a thermostatic mixing valve. It will ensure an even, pre-set temperature in the hot water supply system, eliminating the possibility of possible burns, etc. However, to install it, you will need to insert another tee into the cold water pipeline - in the thermostat valve itself, the hot and cold flows are mixed to the required temperature.

    Circuit using a thermostatic valve

    Circuit using a thermostatic valve

Preparation

If you have not previously installed a boiler, then first of all decide on its future location, then select tools and materials.

Selecting a location

When searching, follow these guidelines:

  1. The wall must be strong, preferably load-bearing, in order to support the large weight of the tank (add the weight of the water to the weight of the device).
  2. Free access to communications and to the device is important, since the water heater will have to be serviced in the future.
  3. Do not connect the boiler to bad wiring. Typically, the power of models is from 3 kW.
  4. Do not connect the tank to rotten or rusty pipes.
  5. Choose a place closer to the pipeline so that you don’t have to cut into the system from the next room.
  6. An acceptable choice for installation is a bathroom or kitchen, less often a toilet or hallway.

It's actually not that complicated. Regular high-quality wiring will easily withstand an average power electric heater. There are no installation requirements or restrictions for this device.

We still recommend running a separate line from the meter to the tank to relieve the burden on the main wiring.

Tools

Tools and materials needed to install the boiler.

If you do everything from scratch, you will have to work hard. First, cut into the pipeline with cold water, make the wiring for hot water, and only then start connecting the indirect heating boiler. You will also need special tools and materials:

  • metal-plastic pipes;
  • tow;
  • paste;
  • sealing tape;
  • flexible hoses for connecting the boiler and water supply;
  • tees;
  • Ball Valves;
  • check valve;
  • hammer drill (a drill is recommended only for lovers of masochism, since you will have to drill fairly deep holes in a strong concrete wall);
  • roulette;
  • level;
  • screwdriver;
  • gas or adjustable wrench;
  • a set of regular keys.

Types of boilers

Before you start connecting a boiler in a house or apartment, you need to figure out what type of water heater is right for you. In order to make the right choice, you need to familiarize yourself with all the variations:

Storage water heater for water supply running on electricity. Such a device is capable of heating water to a temperature of 55 to 75 degrees automatically. It is important to note that it consumes very little electricity because the water heating process occurs gradually. Storage water heaters are distinguished by their versatility. That is why they can be installed in any room.

storage water heater

Typical storage water heater

Instantaneous water heater . The operation of such a boiler is based on the fact that water is heated directly as it moves through the tap. The main advantage of such a device is its mobility. The second, no less important advantage is that the process of heating water takes place almost instantly. It is important to note that such a water heater can be installed either at one water point or have distribution to all water consumers. This directly depends on the power of the device.

instantaneous water heater

Indirect heating boiler. Such a water heater is capable of providing an uninterrupted supply of hot water to all consumers at the same time. Such a device has a fairly low heat loss coefficient. The design of such a device does not include a heat source. The role of coolant is played by external heat sources. Heating boilers are most often used as heat sources.

indirect heating boiler in the boiler room

Boiler installation.

Using the method described below, you can connect a storage water heater from companies such as Elenberg, Eltron, Etalon, Ferroli, Gorenje, Polaris, Stiebel, Thermex, Vega, Termex, Ariston, Atmor and others. It is considered the most effective option for connecting a simple vertical boiler, but first, let’s look at the design of the device.

The boiler consists of the following parts:

  • heating element - element that heats water;
  • Tank - maintaining the water temperature at the required level;
  • Thermostat;
  • Water drainage and supply systems.

The most important thing when choosing a boiler is the method of attaching it to the wall (vertical or horizontal) and the volume of the tank. Vertical devices are most often used: they take up less space than horizontal water heaters and connect to the water supply system much easier and faster

Overview of installation options

Installation of a storage water heater

First you need to choose the place where you will connect the water heater with your own hands.

There are several criteria, so we’ll rank them in order of importance:


  1. Availability of water pipes nearby -

    installation of a storage heater should not be complicated by laying a long water supply system.
  2. Operational safety will largely depend on how correctly you connect the electric heater to the 220 V power supply. It is advisable to have a separate power line on the group circuit breaker.
  3. The possibility of cutting into the hot water supply system, which already exists, so that the heated water does not enter the general house system. This question does not apply to individual private houses.
  4. The presence of strong walls on which you can safely install the boiler with your own hands.

Most often, it is advisable to install a water heater in the bathroom. The fact is that there is a water supply there, there is a hot pipe and the main point for consumption.

But there may be the following problems:

  • Connecting a boiler to the electrical network for a bathroom is not the best solution in the sense that it may be unsafe. But if you fulfill all the safety requirements, then such a project has a place to be. How to properly connect a boiler to the electrical network in a room with a high level of humidity is described in the rules for the construction of electrical installations (PUE). In short, switching devices in the form of automatic machines and sockets should be located outside the bathroom; simultaneous contact with grounded objects and the electrical installation should not be allowed. In addition, grounding should be done in accordance with the PUE. There must be an RCD.

But what to do if there is no “ground” in the shield and there is only “neutral”? With the TN-C grounding system, it will not be possible to connect the boiler without modifying the circuit. You will need to make the “ground” yourself. To do this, you need to run the conductor (reinforcement) along the riser or loaded wall to the ground and make grounding in the front garden. If this option is not possible, then you will first need to heat the water, then disconnect the device from the network, and only then can you open the tap.

  • Wall mounting. Installing a storage boiler yourself is possible, and there are several ways. The problem may arise due to the quality of the walls. The blocks in the sanitary facilities of typical apartments are concrete structures with a wall thickness of 6-9 cm. A 100 kg boiler barrel will simply fall even with the best quality anchors. The best option would be to drill through the wall (into a ventilation duct or wall) and attach it not to ordinary anchors, but to bolts through a steel plate on the back side.
  • Naturally, if there is a permanent wall, then the question of fastening does not even arise. All that remains is to drive an anchor with a length of 12 to 15 cm, and you can hang at least 300 kg. Next you need to cut into the water supply systems. A typical diagram is shown in the photo below. In the line that goes from the risers to the consumer (mixer or faucet), valves and tees to the boiler must be embedded. There must be a shut-off valve between the riser and the tie-in. The system will function like this: close the valve after the hot pipe, open the shut-off valve for heated water. All that remains is to use the boiler, and the heated water will not go into the general system. If you need to use a centralized hot water supply, you only need to close the shut-off valves to the boiler and open the taps from the riser.

Installation of a flow-through electric heater

Heating devices without a storage tank will help solve two popular problems at once:

  1. How to install an instantaneous water heater in a bathroom with thin walls? There are no burdens - there will be no problems. Moreover, there are models that can be installed directly on the sink. Such devices can be hung wherever convenient, at a distance of the length of the hose from the shower.
  2. Using hot water in a room where you do not live permanently. It turns out that a simple connection diagram for an instantaneous water heater will save you from the need to store water all winter while you are not at home.

Installation of a flow device will not involve complex cutting into the system and installation of shut-off valves. You need to connect the miniature boiler to electricity, and you can connect it to the inlet of the water supply. The main thing is that there is good water pressure. Flow-through heaters have a strong heating system, and with a weak flow it will begin to boil inside, and overheating protection will turn off the device. To connect a flow-type boiler, the electrical connection diagram must include grounding and a protective shutdown device. In fact, when using heated water and operating the boiler at the same time, it is as if you are in contact with the heater itself. In the event of an electrical failure, the safety system must immediately de-energize the heater.

Helpful advice! If you do not know how to connect a water heater in an apartment with your own hands, it is best to contact a professional for this work, and after installation you can request a safety certificate.

Indirect heating boiler - what kind of unit?

This phrase means a tank filled with water, which is equipped inside with a heat exchanger coil connected to a boiler responsible for heating the house, or to another system within which some coolant circulates. The water in such a unit becomes hot due to the fact that the liquid supplied directly from the boiler to the heat exchange coil gives up its energy to the liquid located in the boiler tank itself. That is, it does not heat up directly, but only absorbs heat from another source. This is where the name for this unit came from – an indirect heating boiler.

Water heated in the unit can be used for a variety of household needs. Moreover, it remains in a heated state for a long time, since the system itself maintains the desired temperature level. By the way, you can install such a boiler not only in a cottage, but also in an apartment, hotel or other premises.

The boiler itself is a metal or plastic container, parallelepiped or cylindrical. The capacity of the tank can be anything and sometimes amounts to thousands of liters.

The water container is usually enclosed in another housing, and thermal insulation material is often laid between these two structural elements. It helps retain heat longer and also protects the outer casing of the tank from extreme heat. The water, which is directly responsible for heating the liquid in the boiler tank, usually circulates through a heat exchanger coil. The tank elements are protected from corrosion by the presence of a magnesium anode. To control the pressure in the unit, a so-called safety valve and thermostat are installed. Water circulation occurs thanks to the presence of a special pump system.

So BKN is a kind of “thermos” for water in the house. It does not heat the water itself, but is able to keep the liquid heated by the coolant in a warm state.

Electrical part of installation

Connecting a storage water heater to the power supply seems to be a very simple task, since you just need to plug the device into an outlet. Household heaters are usually designed for a standard voltage of 220 V.

But anyone who is at least a little familiar with the operation of electrical networks understands that a regular outlet may be completely unsuitable for such powerful devices.

First, you should assess the condition of the electrical wiring in your apartment or house and find out what maximum load it is designed for. Connecting several high-power devices to one line at the same time can be fatal to the system.

For example, if you turn on a heater and a household electric stove/automatic washing machine at the same time, the wiring may burn out, cause a fire, etc.

It is safer and more reliable to run a separate cable for the water heater from the electrical panel. The most important indicator in this situation is the cross-section of the electrical cable. The minimum cable cross-section can be calculated using special tables.

In this case, you should take into account the operating voltage, phases, material from which the cable is made, whether the wiring will be hidden, etc. For water heaters, a two-core copper or aluminum cable, voltage 220 V, single phase, is usually used.


This table will help you select a cable of the appropriate cross-section to connect the storage water heater to the power supply. Using a poor quality cable may cause a dangerous accident.

If the heater is installed in a room with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen, etc.), special waterproof sockets should be used.

In addition, for two-phase boilers it is almost always necessary to install an RCD - a residual current device. The cable must also be protected from moisture, as well as durable and sufficiently elastic.

Connecting storage water heaters
Most often, storage water heaters are installed in places with high humidity, for example, in the bathroom. Here it is necessary to use special waterproof sockets

You should not save on cable by buying products of dubious quality. In addition, you need to take the electrical cable to connect the storage heater with sufficient reserve. The wire should not be under tension.

Before connecting, you should carefully study the cable markings. Inexperienced beginners sometimes get confused and connect the phase to the ground loop.

If you have no experience in performing electrical installation work, it makes sense to seek advice from an experienced electrician or entrust him with performing this stage of installing a water heater.

It is imperative to ensure that the heater is grounded. To do this, you can use a piece of metal wire, one end of which is fixed to the heater body, and the other is connected to the ground loop.

Self-installation of a boiler

You can install an electric boiler yourself. This will require plumbing and electrical work.

Preparatory stage

This stage of work includes calculating the volume of water consumed, choosing a good location for the device (it is necessary that the user can easily reach all connecting elements of the system to simplify maintenance of the device).

If the boiler is storage, you need to make sure that the wall can support its weight with water (partitions that are too thin or plasterboard will definitely not work). The closer the device is to the water supply pipes, the better, since you will not have to lay an additional section of the water supply pipeline.

To work you will need:

  • building level;
  • ruler or tape measure;
  • perforator;
  • adjustable wrench;
  • pliers;
  • tees-fittings;
  • shut-off valves;
  • connecting hoses (for water drainage);
  • additional pipes (if necessary), you must first ensure that the pipes are able to withstand the required load;
  • sealing tape, tow or special paste (for sealing connecting elements).

After making sure that the location is chosen correctly and all the necessary materials and tools are available, you can proceed directly to the installation, working according to the finished scheme.

Installation and connection of a water heater

The first thing to do is to place the device at the mounting location: the distance between it and the ceiling must be at least ten centimeters, otherwise it will be simply impossible to hang the tank on the fasteners.

Carefully mark the attachment points (with a pencil or marker). You need to drill holes at the marked points and tighten the fasteners to the required depth.


The photo shows the main elements of connecting the boiler

For fastening, it is better to use steel hooks that come with the device. If they are not provided, then you need to choose a mount based on the weight of the boiler. Afterwards the tank is hung on them using grooves specially provided in its body.

Before installing the tank, you need to make sure that everything is in order with the threaded connections, since they are often unscrewed by 1-2 turns. In this case, it is recommended to drive the threads with a die 1/2 inch, but carefully, without excessive force.

Next, connect the device to the water supply. These works may have their own characteristics and differences depending on what material the pipeline is made of.

For polypropylene, metal-plastic and steel pipelines, you will need to use a special tool designed specifically to work on each of these materials. Also, for inserting into the pipeline, you will need to select various auxiliary parts (tees, couplings and fittings).

But the order of work is the same in all cases. First, turn off the water supply. The pipe is cut, and a branch is installed at the cut site. To do this, a tee is soldered into the pipeline. Pipeline branches are equipped with an MPH coupling, to which a shut-off valve is connected. The shut-off valve is connected to the boiler pipes directly or using flexible hoses.

Installation of shut-off valves

To ensure that water is supplied to the tank from a cold pipeline, the following steps are performed:

  • installation of a tee on the tank pipe;
  • connecting the drain valve to the side of the tee;
  • installation of a check valve or explosion valve on a tee;
  • shut-off valves are mounted in series behind the valve;
  • connection of shut-off valves to the water supply system.

It is recommended to perform these manipulations at a branch from the central pipeline. This will prevent damage to water taps during installation.

How to connect a pipeline to a boiler

So, the tees are cut into the main hot and cold water supply pipes, taps are installed on them, and all that remains is to bring the pipes to the boiler and connect them. Which option should I choose?

  1. First of all, the entire “hitch” is connected to the boiler. Any model has two pipes with ½ inch external threads. They are marked with appropriate colors to avoid installation errors.

To begin with, some good advice: do not pack all the water supply directly to the electric heater. From time to time, situations arise when it is necessary to remove the boiler for maintenance or repair work, and with a “hard” connection, certain problems with dismantling may arise.

American coupling

American coupling

The optimal solution to the problem is to install an “American” coupling on the boiler pipes, from which all other elements will go further. The connection is reliable, and disconnecting the boiler from the pipelines will be an easy task for 2-3 minutes.

The second option is flexible hoses with metal braiding. At first glance, this is an excellent solution that immediately solves a bunch of problems. However, not all so simple.

  • Firstly, the products must be of high quality - the market is simply teeming with low-quality fakes.
  • Secondly, the hoses must be installed freely, without unnecessary bends or loops. Any excess tension in the hose leads to unnecessary vibration during pressure changes and rapid failure.
  • And thirdly, some boiler manufacturers, for their own reasons, directly stipulate in the technical documentation a ban on the use of such flexible connections. Violation of this rule will entail, in the event of a complaint, the company’s refusal of warranty obligations.

In any case, according to electrical safety rules, it is strictly forbidden to connect the boiler directly or through metallized hoses to a metal water supply. A phase breakdown on the device body, if the protection system fails, can lead to the spread of life-threatening voltage through the water supply system and fire hazard situations.

  1. The hot water outlet can be simply connected to a pipe, although it makes sense to install a shut-off valve here - it will always be possible to turn off the line for temporary preservation of the heater or dismantling.
  2. For the “cold” inlet, we adhere to the following sequence (in the direction from the “blue” boiler pipe):
  • The coupling is “American” (most optimal for direct pipe supply).
  • Tee with drain tap (if desired).
  • Combination safety valve (mandatory and non-negotiable).
  • Shut-off valve - makes it possible to turn off the water supply in the immediate vicinity of the electric heater (an optional element, but quite reasonable).
  • Pressure reducer - if necessary. Most often, it is still placed at the common entrance of the water supply network to the apartment (house).

4. What pipes should I use?

  • It is impossible to give general advice, although aesthetically, and for reasons of reliability, the choice of polypropylene pipes will still be optimal. They look much neater, and it is possible, if desired, to wall them up in the walls after testing.
  • Installation of “metal-plastic” may seem simpler, but both in appearance and in durability it is significantly inferior to polypropylene.

    From the outside you can’t even tell that the pipes are made of plastic.

    From the outside you can’t even tell that the pipes are made of plastic.

  • Metal pipes have already been mentioned - connecting them to the boiler is strictly prohibited.

The safety valve is the most important element

Boilers can explode! Yes, this is not a joke! To prevent an explosion and relieve excess pressure, be sure to install a safety valve!

Safety valve with water drain lever

Safety valve with water drain lever

Particular attention must be paid to this element of the system. Despite numerous warnings about the need for such a valve, from time to time there are reports of emergencies with electric heaters, the direct cause of which was ignoring safety requirements.

This small and fairly simple device has two functions - a check valve that prevents the outflow of water from the boiler tank, and a valve for excess liquid pressure in the heater tank. Both of them are ordinary poppet valves, but with different directional vectors of action, and designed for different pressure values.

The valve is mounted in strict accordance with the direction of water movement indicated on its body. To make the importance of this element clear, we will simulate situations that will inevitably arise in its absence.

  • The flow of water into the heater tank is ensured by constant pressure in the water supply system. However, no one is guaranteed against pressure drops or even its complete loss during the period of work on highways (and in other areas, a significant decrease in pressure at night is practiced). In the absence of a check valve, due to the increase in the pressure of heated water in the boiler tank, it will inevitably flow back, and hot water can suddenly come out of the cold water taps, end up in the toilet tank, or even flow through the cold main to the neighbors. But this is not the worst thing. The boiler remains “dry”, and this can lead to failure of the heating element.
  • There are still “craftsmen” who, understanding the importance of the check valve, limit themselves to its installation, ignoring the need for a “break valve”. By doing this, they install, without exaggeration, “explosives” in their home. Judge for yourself:

The thermostat has failed (sadly, this happens). The operation of the heating element in the boiler does not stop, the temperature rises, reaching 100 degrees and exceeding this value. According to the laws of thermodynamics, the pressure in a closed space also increases, and boiling of water may not occur, since the boiling point becomes significantly higher than the 100-degree mark. Under such circumstances, any opening of a tap or a crack in the body leads to a sharp drop in pressure and, as a result, an instant boiling of a large volume of water with the release of a colossal amount of steam. The explosion can be so powerful that it demolishes interior partitions.

All this can and should be avoided by simply installing a safety valve. As soon as the pressure in the tank slightly exceeds the permissible standards, it will simply dump the excess liquid, preventing an emergency.

Many users sometimes express dissatisfaction that water drips or even leaks from the valve pipe. They should be reassured - more concern should be caused by the valve, which always remained dry, even at high values ​​of the set heating temperature. – there is a suspicion that it is faulty.

And the appearance of liquid on the valve nozzle is easy to deal with - you simply put a hose on it (preferably transparent, for visual inspection), which is either diverted into the toilet cistern or cuts into the sewer riser. True, if leaks from the valve are constant and abundant, it is worth checking whether its data sheets correspond to the characteristics of the boiler. In addition, it is possible that the spring has become “hooked” on it. In both cases, the issue is easily resolved by installing the required new valve, especially since it is inexpensive.

Safety valve installation

If everything is done correctly, then at the boiler outlet for cold water supply, the fittings should be installed according to the following diagram (from top to bottom of the heater):

  1. A tee with a tap for draining water from the boiler in case of an emergency.
  2. Safety valve (steam pressure).
  3. Check valve (to prevent water from flowing back into the pipeline).
  4. Shut-off valve (to isolate the heater from the water supply).

A safety valve usually comes with the water heater and is needed to prevent the boiler from rupturing due to excess steam. And the reverse allows you to avoid draining water back into the water supply when it turns out to be empty for one reason or another. This ensures the safety of the electric heating element.

Boiler connection diagram via safety valve

At the DHW outlet, a shut-off valve will suffice. But you can additionally install a drain valve. Although it doesn't make much sense. Inside the boiler, the end of the hot water intake pipe is always higher than the one intended for cold water. Therefore, in any case, more liquid will drain from the cold water inlet than from the hot water outlet.

Types of plumbing

Connection options for wall-mounted water heaters can vary greatly depending on the typical features of the plumbing. The reliability of the connection of polypropylene pipes is ensured by special end couplings and turns. Pipes must be stabilized, with an additional reinforcing layer in the form of aluminum foil.

boiler and water supply

Plumbing wiring diagrams for connecting a water heater

Connection to a metal water supply system is made using special clamps that can withstand significant loads and have a so-called “inset” in the form of a special pipe.

Particularly popular are lightweight and durable metal-plastic pipelines, easy to install and operate, which are installed using an open method.

In order to protect the water heater from sudden breakdown or leakage, safety equipment is used. Safety valve for water heater - purpose and installation.

Read on to learn more about how to finish a bathroom ceiling and what types of ceilings there are.

You can read all about the pros and cons of electric instantaneous water heaters in this topic.

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