As the famous saying goes: “Prepare the cart in winter, and the sleigh and radiators in summer.” Everyone faces the need to change batteries sooner or later, and, of course, this should be done during the off-heating season.
heating radiator installation
Before we begin with detailed step-by-step instructions for installing heating radiators with your own hands, let's look at the technical characteristics of the main types. After all, the installation process largely depends on the design features. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right radiator based on the area of the room, the operational properties of the heating system, SNiPs, norms and regulations for installation, etc.
Types of radiators:
- Cast iron.
- Steel.
- Aluminum.
- Bimetallic.
Cast iron radiators
Heating radiator installed in the apartment
Cast iron radiators are perhaps the real “long-livers” on the market. Just a few decades ago, such batteries were in almost every house and apartment. But even today, despite technical progress and the emergence of newer modern radiators, cast iron products are very popular among our compatriots. Why are they so good?
It should immediately be noted that today these heating systems have been significantly modified and technically improved. Therefore, speaking about the advantages and disadvantages, we will focus on those radiators that are currently on the market. One of the main advantages of such batteries is their long service life. Manufacturers provide a guarantee of at least 50 years, but with proper care, this period can be doubled or even tripled. Of course, during this time the aesthetic appearance of the heating radiator may become obsolete, but there is a purely technical possibility of operating for such a long time!
Due to the massiveness and high heat capacity of cast iron, these radiators are able to maintain a high temperature for a long time after the coolant is turned off. They are quite resistant to pressure changes and aggressive environments. But due to its massiveness and heavy weight, installation of cast iron batteries is a rather lengthy and labor-intensive process. In addition, they are not very different in their beautiful appearance, unless, of course, the cast-iron construction is the “highlight” of the style concept of the interior.
Steel radiators
Steel radiator in an apartment - photo
These products belong to the new generation of batteries and come in two types: panel tubular.
Steel radiators are characterized by high heat transfer, increased energy saving, and high efficiency. The design consists of two steel plates connected by welding. These products are manufactured with two types of connection: side and bottom. The choice depends on the original location of the heating circuit. Their high popularity in the market is due to their light weight, ease of installation and attractive appearance. When purchasing, be sure to carefully examine the coating, as this affects further operation.
Tubular radiators are a structure consisting of several sections fastened together by welding. Depending on the area of the room and the heating effect, it is necessary to calculate the power of the finished module and select the optimal size. Tubular steel batteries are characterized by excellent heat dissipation, a high level of performance characteristics and a low price.
One of the advantages of these radiators is also their main disadvantage, if you turn off the heating system - steel radiators very quickly lose their heat and, on the contrary, “help” the ambient temperature to cool the temperature of the liquid in the system. If cast iron radiators remain warm for a few more hours, their steel counterparts will become cold within 15-20 minutes.
Aluminum radiators
Aluminum battery for 10 sections
Made from aluminum alloy and painted with powder enamel. Due to their high heat transfer capacity, such batteries quickly and efficiently warm up the room. Smooth, aesthetically pleasing and lightweight. They are very popular on the market today, but they also have a number of disadvantages.
The connection of individual sections is made using the coupling thread method, which allows for fairly quick installation of the battery. The high tightness of aluminum batteries is achieved through the casting method. Each section is cast in a separate mold and then joined into one overall structure.
Due to the chemical properties of the metal, aluminum radiators are not able to withstand the high pressure that is often created in central heating systems. Therefore, for installation in an apartment with a central heating system, it is better not to use these thin batteries. They are more suitable for a private home with a self-regulated level of water pressure in the system.
Bimetallic radiators
Bimetallic radiator design
These products occupy one of the leading positions on the market today. Made from high quality alloys, they are of double construction. The outer layer of the panel is made of aluminum, which ensures lightness, excellent appearance and high heat transfer. And the core of the structure is made of an alloy of metals that are resistant to corrosion and high pressure drops.
Thus, bimetallic batteries combine the best technical solutions from steel and aluminum radiators. The only drawback of these products is their high cost, which, however, is justified by their long service life and excellent energy-saving factor.
High technical properties and attractive appearance allow them to be used as an easily controlled and efficient heating system for an apartment.
Another undeniable advantage is the ability to independently determine the number of sections. Based on your needs, the area of the room and the required volume of heated air, you can personally assemble a radiator consisting of at least three or thirty-three sections, which, naturally, is not available when choosing cast iron or aluminum analogues.
No. 9 Rewinding and taps
You should not use the silicone gaskets included in the universal kit. When the heating is turned on or temperature changes, the silicone will expand and contract, which can cause leaks. To avoid this problem, you should use tow rather than silicone gaskets.
Calculation of the required number of sections
Table for calculating the number of battery sections.
Once you have decided on the choice of radiator, you need to correctly calculate its size. After all, even the most efficient radiator will not provide heat in the room if its dimensions are not capable of heating the room.
The basic value for calculating the size of the radiator and the number of sections is the area of the room. We offer a simplified (household) option for calculating the number of radiator sections.
As a standard, to provide the necessary heat in a room, 100 W per 1 square meter of area is sufficient. In a simple mathematical way we calculate:
Q=S*100, where:
Q is the required heat transfer from the radiator.
S is the area of the room.
This formula will tell you what radiator power to use to heat a room if the radiator is a one-piece, non-separable structure. If its scheme involves building up additional sections, then we add one more parameter to these calculations:
N=Q/Qус
N – required number of radiator sections.
Qс – specific thermal power of one section.
To make the calculations correctly, you do not need a higher technical education. Just pick up a tape measure and measure the area of the room.
Please note that this formula is suitable for a standard apartment with a ceiling height of 2.7 meters; if the height of your ceilings is much higher, we recommend doubling the required number of sections!
Where will we place it?
Typically, radiators are placed where the greatest heat loss in the apartment is expected. As a rule, this is the area under the window or on the side of the corner wall of the house. Even if the apartment is located in a well-insulated building and is equipped with double-glazed windows, the window is the place where the air temperature will be the lowest during the cold season.
Choosing the optimal location for the radiator
If you do not place a radiator under the window, then the cold air entering from outside will gradually fall down and spread across the floor. From physics lessons we know that warm air moves upward. This means that, moving away from the battery and rising to the ceiling, it will create a kind of barrier to the cold flow from the street. According to SNiP recommendations, the size of the battery should occupy at least 70% of the window, otherwise the warm air will not create the necessary barrier.
If the batteries are too short, a situation may occur where cold zones form on the sides. As a result, the room temperature will be low even with a powerful radiator. As you can see, it is not always only the battery power that provides a comfortable microclimate in the apartment.
Installation features: decide on the wiring system
First, you need to decide on the distribution system for the heating system throughout the apartment: one-pipe or two-pipe.
Heating system wiring
Single-pipe series circuit. This is the simplest option that will allow you to quickly figure out the radiator connection diagram. The coolant sequentially flows through the pipe, passes through the radiator structure, and then returns back into the pipe.
The two-pipe version is also popularly called “return”. This is a parallel connection, when the coolant passes through one pipe and returns, already cooled, back. Although this option will cause some difficulties for beginners, it has a lot of advantages:
- the room is heated evenly;
- You can use a thermostat to set the required temperature for each individual radiator.
Choosing the right connection type
The type of connection is no less important: side, bottom or diagonal.
Battery connection diagrams
Typically, the type of connection is selected depending on the layout and features of the apartment.
| Side battery connection | One of the most common options is a side connection, which has good heat dissipation, but if a long radiator is installed in the apartment, it may not warm up completely at the edge. |
| Bottom battery connection | It is advisable to choose a bottom connection if the pipes run under the floor or are hidden under the baseboard. The pipes are directed downward, which does not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the battery. However, with this type of connection, heat loss can reach 15%. |
| Diagonal connection is the most effective | A diagonal connection should be used if the length of the radiator is at least 12 sections. Here the pipe is connected to one edge of the battery, the coolant passes through the entire structure, and returns back through the other pipe. Heat loss with a diagonal connection usually does not exceed 5%. |
When the choice is made and you have decided on the type of radiator and the type of its connection, you can begin installation work.
Today, the most popular among heating devices for apartments with a central heating system are cast iron and bimetallic batteries.
We suggest that you familiarize yourself in detail with the instructions for each of these options, which have a number of technical features.
Before starting installation for apartments with a central heating system, it is necessary to obtain permission from the relevant authority to carry out installation work. You will have to drain the water from the batteries, which means you must first turn off the entire riser. This is a mandatory condition, failure to comply with which may result in a serious administrative fine. After you fill out all the documents, a plumber will come to you at the appointed time to drain the water to the desired floor. Of course, the dismantling and installation of batteries must be carried out during the non-heating season.
Damage to the tightness of the heating system in an apartment during the heating season can lead to an accident for which you will be charged a significant fine. In addition, you will leave the entire house without heating for a long time!
Installation of bimetallic radiators: SNiP for apartments
There is a wide variety of bimetallic radiators on the market today, which differ not only in shape, size, but also in the type of connection: side and bottom. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the detailed installation instructions for a bimetallic radiator with a standard side connection.
The procedure for measuring the heating system in an apartment with your own hands (when installing batteries in a new building, you can skip the dismantling step):
- Removing old batteries.
- Attaching the brackets.
- Assembly and installation of radiators.
- Connection to the heating system.
- Check for strength and leakage.
To install bimetallic batteries, we will need the following tools and materials.
Materials:
- Battery pack.
- Brake cleaner and brush (for cleaning radiator threads).
- Brackets that are selected depending on the wall material. Their number is calculated depending on the size of the radiator itself. For a standard radiator consisting of 6-8 sections, you need to take 3-4 fasteners.
- Squeegees or adapters. These elements will allow you to connect the radiator to the heating circuit pipe without welding.
- Accessories (valves, adapters, couplings).
- Mayevsky tap - with the help of this part, if necessary, you can remove accumulated air from the pipes (the so-called “Airing”).
- Thermostat. Allows you to control the supply of hot water to the radiator, which allows you to independently set the microclimate in the house. You can, of course, get by with a regular half-turn tap, but then you will have to manually adjust the degree of opening of the tap once a day in order to avoid temperature surges. And this, you see, is not entirely comfortable.
- Tow, sealing tape.
Attention!!! The thermostat for the radiator is installed only with a two-turbo connection system!
| Tools for installing bimetallic batteries | |
| Torque wrench Gas key Pipe soldering iron | Bulgarian Drill Level |
Installation of bimetallic batteries must be done in the original packaging (film). The top layer of the radiator consists of high-quality aluminum, and this material is quite fragile. It is easy to damage it during installation work with a tool, so open only those areas to which you will connect pipes and adapters.
| Installation instructions for bimetallic batteries | |
| Make sure the water is completely drained before removing the old battery | Before dismantling the old battery, you must make sure that the water is drained, otherwise an accident cannot be avoided. Not everyone has a cordless angle grinder. If you perform dismantling with an electric tool, then it is easy to predict the result. |
| Marking for battery | Choosing a place to install the radiator. It depends on the type of connection and its length. Determine the distance of the battery from the floor and from the wall.
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| Marking the wall for the radiator | We make markings with a pencil on the wall where the radiator itself will be placed. And we do it not by eye, but strictly according to the level. Radiators in the same room must be installed at the same level. This is advisable to do from the point of view of efficiency and aesthetics. Now we mark the points where the brackets will be installed. We drill holes in the wall into which we insert dowels. We screw in the fasteners (brackets). Some models already come with a set of fasteners included. Depending on the length of the radiator, there may be 2 or 4 of them. |
| We assemble the radiator | Radiator assembly.
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| Checking that the battery is installed correctly | We hang the assembled battery structure on the brackets so that it is tightly supported at all points. There are already special brackets on the rear panel of the radiator, so this will not be difficult. Check the degree of inclination again with a building level. If necessary, adjust the tilt of the structure. |
| Battery connection | We connect the radiator to the supply and discharge pipelines. We seal using flax (tow or sealant). We attach the Mayevsky tap to the adapter and tighten everything well with a wrench. We connect the pipeline to the radiator. |
| Screening test | We carry out pressure testing of the structure. You can, of course, have it done professionally. But for this you will have to call a specialist with a tool or buy an expensive device yourself. Or you can do it in a simpler way. Slowly open the taps to fill the radiator with water. If this is done abruptly, a powerful water hammer may occur, which will compromise the integrity of the structure. We check every joint and connection for leaks. |
We invite you to familiarize yourself with detailed video instructions for installing a steel or bimetallic radiator in an apartment:
Connection diagrams
Before installing a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:
- Lateral (one-sided) installation scheme for heating radiators, in which the pipe supplying hot coolant is connected to the upper pipe of the heating device. The outlet pipe is connected to the bottom one. This ensures high heat transfer. When connecting the other way around, when the supply pipe is connected from below and the outlet pipe from above, the heat transfer is significantly reduced. Such a connection in a one-pipe system requires the installation of a jumper to facilitate the operation of the system.
- The second, diagonal connection of the heating radiator is as follows. The pipe supplying hot coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe of the battery, and the “return” is connected below, on the opposite side of the heating device. This connection is advisable if the battery is long and has a large number of sections. The diagonal design guarantees maximum heat transfer. But if the supply pipe is connected from below and the outlet pipe from above, the heat transfer will decrease by 6-10%.
- The last method - connecting heating radiators from below - is used when the consumer wants to hide heating pipes in the wall, in the floor or near its surface. With it, the forward and return pipes are connected from the bottom of the radiator, but from different sides. This connection scheme (otherwise called “Leningradka”) is characterized by aesthetics, as well as low heat transfer. Heat loss is up to 15%.
You can ask the specialists how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and perhaps agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen will tell you which connection scheme to choose and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.
Step-by-step instructions for installing cast iron batteries in an apartment
The installation of cast iron radiators has a number of distinctive features. First of all, this is due to the heavy weight of the products, which cannot be installed alone.
The method of connecting the battery to the pipe will also differ. If we connect steel and aluminum pipes using threads, then gas welding will be used here. Before you begin installation work, you need to stock up on the necessary set of tools and materials.
| Tools for installing cast iron batteries | |
| Gas welding Level | A set of keys Tape measure and pencil |
Hammer | |
Materials:
- a set of batteries of the required size;
- sealant (flax or FUM tape);
- fittings (plugs, tees);
- Mayevsky crane;
- thermostat;
- fastening elements (brackets).
| Installation instructions for cast iron batteries | |
| Removing the old radiator | We are dismantling the old battery. Using a grinder, we carefully disconnect the cast-iron structure, making sure beforehand that the entire system is turned off and the remaining water is drained from the pipes. |
| Before starting installation, you must mark the battery mounts General layout diagram for radiator brackets | We determine on the wall the location of the battery in the room. By installing the radiator clearly in the center of the window, we will achieve normal and natural air circulation in the room.
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| We mount the brackets and install the battery on them | We install the brackets into the wall.
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| Battery connection Bypass | We begin connecting the radiator to the heating system.
Note. If you want to install a tap that bypasses the water supply, you must make a jumper (bypass). Otherwise, you will cut off the heat supply to your neighbors! |
| Final check | We carry out installation testing. Gradually turn off the tap and turn on the water. This must be done slowly, without allowing a powerful flow of water to immediately fill the radiator, in order to avoid water hammer. |
In conclusion, we would like to invite you to familiarize yourself in detail with the video instructions for installing radiators with your own hands, so that you can clearly see some of the installation features.
Correct installation of a radiator in an apartment is the key to efficient operation of the heating system and comfort in the house. Therefore, strictly follow all the rules of this instruction and you will definitely succeed.
#5 Choose a manufacturer at random
Apartment owners devote most of their efforts to searching for a high-quality radiator, but do not worry about component manufacturers. You should opt for more expensive parts.
For installation you will need:
- 1-2 taps for connecting to the heating system;
- coupling for connecting two sections of pipeline;
- 2-4 through plugs;
- stub;
- air vent;
- brackets.
When choosing parts, you need to pay attention to the smallest nuances: the number of turns on the thread, the quality of plastic and brass, the presence or absence of a retaining ring. The collapsible connection differs from more expensive manufacturers by a paronite gasket with a large contact area and a thick brass nut.
