Proper water distribution in the apartment - protection against leaks

When building a private cottage on an individual plot, the first step is to connect a source of electricity and water supply to the object. When a buyer purchases housing in an apartment building, then in any version, rough or finished, there are the communications listed above. But in both cases, new residents must install everything so that it fits all the connection points - to the sink and dishwasher in the kitchen, to the plumbing fixtures and washing machine in the bathroom, etc. In the article we will look at do-it-yourself water supply wiring diagrams in an apartment, we will give installation recommendations.

Where does the right connection begin?

The right approach is to plan ahead. It is the creation of a scheme, a project, that represents half the success. On the plan you will need to indicate all water intake points, as well as calculate the approximate pressure power and how many liters of liquid will be consumed on average.

Thus, the beginning of water distribution work is a preliminary thorough study of all information. We recommend that you read the entire article, familiarize yourself with the sequence of work, the nuances of installation, as well as the types of pipes and water resource connection diagrams.

Construction of houses

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What might make you think about installing a new water supply? Morally and physically outdated rotten rusty pipes, an upcoming major renovation in the apartment - it would be stupid not to take advantage of the situation and ignore such an important point as communications. Well, and also the entrance to a new building, where in the bathroom there are only pipes and nothing else: no water distribution pipes, no sewer pipes, i.e. everything is left to your personal discretion as to where and what to place. Distributing water in an apartment is a difficult task, but it is quite feasible for a person who has at least a modicum of engineering thought and straight hands. If you decide to do all the work yourself, you will have to solve more than one issue and make more than one choice before you begin the installation. Therefore, in this article we will discuss which is the best water distribution scheme to choose, what material to choose pipes from, what installation rules are for certain types of pipes and how it is done.

1. How to route water: open or hidden
2. Water distribution diagram
3. Which water pipes to choose
4. Do-it-yourself water distribution
   We draw up a water distribution diagram in the apartment
5. We select and purchase the required materials: pipes, fittings, tools
6. We install water pipes from metal-plastic pipes
7. We install water pipes from polypropylene pipes

How to route water: open or hidden

Probably the very first question that arises among apartment owners is whether to bury pipes in the walls or perform open wiring. For small rooms, this issue is critical, since pipes laid in an open way will not make it possible to place all the equipment that we would like in the bathroom. There just isn't enough space. In large rooms you can do it the way you like, but it is important to know a number of limitations.

Important! You cannot embed any detachable connections on any pipes into the walls. For example, metal-plastic pipes with compression fittings, transition couplings from propylene to threads, any American pipes, nipples, barrels, threaded couplings and more must be laid openly in order to be able to service and repair them.

You can embed into walls: copper pipes, polypropylene pipes and metal-plastic pipes with press connections. As you can see, the wiring method already imposes certain restrictions on the ability to use certain materials. So when choosing how to properly route water, you can start from what pipes you plan to use and take into account the pros and cons of both route methods.

Advantages of walled water pipes:

1. All pipes are hidden from view, nothing is visible anywhere - the result is a beautiful, neat appearance of the room.
2. You can arrange furniture and appliances without losing useful space. Otherwise, the pipes are “taken” approximately 10 cm along the walls.
3. In the event of a fire, plastic water pipes will not be damaged.

Disadvantages of laying water pipes in grooves:

1. Restrictions on the choice of pipe material and method of their connection and installation, since any dismountable connections cannot be hidden.
2. Labor intensity of preparatory work. Chasing walls is not only time-consuming and difficult, but also dusty.
3. The complexity and complexity of pipe installation. They must be assembled with exceptional precision, strictly according to the groove, otherwise at the most inopportune moment it will become clear that it is necessary to finish the groove.
4. It is impossible to carry out repair work without destroying the wall decoration and dismantling plaster and pipes.
5. If a leak appears in a pipe, it will become clear only when the neighbors below come with angry threats and reproaches.
6. If repairs are needed, you will have to make new cosmetic repairs to the room, since the walls will be “ripped apart.” This is not only additional labor costs, but also financial losses.
7. It is impossible to inspect the pipes, check their condition or suspect a leak.
8. You can accidentally damage the water supply if you forget exactly where the pipe goes when you have to drill a hole to secure a boiler, mirror or other device.

Obviously, the hidden installation method has a significant number of disadvantages. So before choosing it, you need to weigh everything carefully. Do not forget that water communications are classified as dangerous and require constant monitoring.

Advantages of the open method of laying water pipes:

1. ANY pipes can be installed using the open method. There are no restrictions.
2. You don’t have to scratch the walls, which means installation is less labor-intensive.
3. Easier installation of pipes, since without being tied to the groove, it is easier to assemble everything.
4. Easy, simple and inexpensive dismantling of the entire water supply system. In this case, the finishing of the walls and floor will not be affected.
5. The condition of the pipes can be monitored at any time.
6. When a leak appears, it is immediately visible, and it is also easy to notice by the presence of a puddle on the floor.
7. The water supply can be improved at any time, a line can be added, without spending time and money on complete dismantling and renovation of the premises.

Disadvantages of open water supply:

1. Unsightly appearance. Although the pipes can be hidden in boxes and neatly sewn up, this design is not suitable for all rooms. In some, such boxes can be beautifully decorated or even create entire niches and mini-pantries for storing all sorts of “bathroom” items.
2. Reducing usable area. For example, you can no longer move a washing machine or laundry basket close to the walls.
3. In the event of a severe fire, the plastic pipes will burn and you will lose your water supply. True, water will extinguish part of the fire, but it will not solve the problem.

To make the right choice, measure the room and calculate everything down to the centimeter, what will go where and what will not fit. It may be better to sacrifice free space and perform an open installation.

Water distribution diagram

An important issue is the wiring diagram. Probably everyone has encountered this situation at least once: you are washing in the shower, enjoying a wonderful warm stream of water, and at that moment someone flushes the toilet or turns on the faucet in the kitchen and just boiling water starts flowing from the shower. Unpleasant and dangerous. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to choose the correct wiring diagram and pipe diameters. By the way, if you want to buy acrylic bathtubs, you can go to the store and buy a high-quality bathtub at a reasonable price.

In total, there are two schemes for routing water pipes, but a third is also possible, which is essentially a combination of these two.

A sequential circuit , or as it is also called a “tee” circuit, where all consumers are connected in series. Those. one pipe runs from the main line along all consumers and a tee is placed next to each, diverting the pipe to a given consumer, and the main pipe goes further, and a tee is again installed at the next consumer, etc. This scheme is fraught with the fact that if several consumers are used at once, the last one in the system will have the lowest pressure. The result may also be the situation described above.

The collector circuit is performed somewhat differently. The pipe connected to the main goes into a collector, from which a separate pipe goes to each individual consumer. A ball valve is installed at the inlet to the manifold and at the outlet of each pipe. This allows you to repair one pipe and one consumer without damaging others, i.e. You can repair the toilet and use the sink in the kitchen or bathroom at the same time. Also, the pressure will be distributed more evenly and there will not be a situation where boiling water suddenly pours or the pressure drops sharply.

But for all its advantages, the manifold circuit also has a drawback - it will require more materials (pipes, fittings and taps) and more space to accommodate it all. So installation according to this scheme is somewhat more expensive.

When choosing a pipe layout for an apartment, you should also take into account the water distribution pattern in the house. For example, in a layout where the main line goes into the bathroom, and the return line goes into the kitchen (i.e. the water passes through all the apartments on the upper floors, and then goes down and passes through the kitchens), you don’t have to think too much and just connect it in the kitchen Serial connection between sink and dishwasher. But the wiring in the bathroom will depend on the number of consumers.

In principle, if everything is done correctly, with knowledge of the matter, then the tee system can ensure correct pressure distribution so that there are no accidental losses of cold water pressure.

The cold water distribution should look something like this: the first tee should have a tap to the shower in the bathroom, the second to the shower in the toilet (if there is one), the second to the sink in the kitchen, and then the tap to the toilet, washing machine and boiler. Since the last three points do not depend on hot water, they do not suffer from temperature changes, but are connected only to cold water supply. There are such apartment layouts that the first tee simply has to lead to the toilet. In this case, you can cheat. For example, if the wiring was done with a 25 mm pipe, make a tee towards the toilet with a transition to a 20 mm pipe, then install a ball shut-off valve, and after that make a branch with a narrow 10 mm pipe. This way, water will flow into the toilet tank more slowly, and the pressure drop in the hot water system will not be felt.

You can organize something like a collector using pipes of different diameters. For example, after introducing a 25 mm pipe and all the required fittings (ball valve, coarse filter, meter, check valve), we install a pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, and from it we lead branches to consumers with a 20 mm pipe.

The hot water distribution may look something like this: a tee with an outlet to the shower in the bathroom, then to the shower in the toilet, and then to the sink in the kitchen. Usually this is not a problem. The main thing is to install a check valve on the cold water main so that hot water does not flow into the cold riser. Up to a couple, you can install OK on DHW, but this is not necessary.

When choosing a water supply wiring diagram for an apartment, also keep in mind that it will be almost impossible to bury the collector circuit in the walls (it can be in the floor), and the collector itself must be open for maintenance and access to the ball valves.

Which water pipes to choose

Until relatively recently, such a question did not arise at all, since there was simply no choice. Today, the choice is dizzying, since the market has been able to offer not only pipes made of various metals, but also plastic ones with different characteristics. So, what kind of water pipes can you buy?

Galvanized steel pipes are a good old proven option. They are resistant, strong, durable (up to 25 years), but over time they rust, growths appear inside, which affects the quality of the water. In addition, the installation of such pipes involves some difficulties: you will have to cut threads and twist the pipes together. In this case, everything must be calculated with an accuracy of a millimeter.

Stainless steel pipes are durable (up to 50 years) and are not afraid of rust. But their price is high, and the cost of fittings for them is even higher, although the installation itself is not so complicated. Very simple repair. A universal option, most often used for heated towel rails.

Copper pipes are one of the best all-around options, but they are very expensive. Durable, smooth, do not corrode, are not afraid of high pressure and harmful impurities in water, do not harbor microorganisms, and are also indifferent to ultraviolet radiation. The most durable (up to 70 years). Installation is not very difficult, the only drawback is the price.

Metal-plastic pipes are the cheapest, but fittings for them are of average cost. They serve for 25 – 30 years. They are easy to install, bend, are not afraid of rust, and deposits do not accumulate on the walls. But at the same time, metal-plastic pipes are afraid of too high temperatures (more than 95 ° C), and pipes with fittings cannot be bent.

Polyethylene pipes are quite durable, flexible, average in price, and fittings for them, too, last more than 30 years. Installation is quite simple - they are welded together. Such pipes do not bend and cannot withstand high temperatures, so they can only be used for cold water supply. There are also pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, they are a little more expensive, but can also be used for hot water supply.

Polypropylene pipes have recently enjoyed enviable popularity for several reasons: they can be hidden in plaster, there is no need to check them often, they are universal (hot water supply, hot water supply, heating, heated floors), strong and durable (about 50 years). They are connected by welding, which requires a special welding machine and scissors. For hot water supply, reinforced pipes (aluminum or fiberglass) are used.

The choice depends entirely on the wishes of the owner and on the scheme and method that were chosen.

Do-it-yourself water distribution

Anyone who is confident in their abilities and has minimal engineer skills can replace or make a new water supply with their own hands. But at the same time, it is better to coordinate the wiring diagram with a professional. Perhaps he will notice shortcomings or give practical advice on materials and pipe diameters.

We draw up a water distribution diagram in the apartment

It is necessary to begin work on replacing the water supply by drawing up a diagram. First of all, we decide on the installation method: open or closed. Then we make a diagram. It can be drawn on paper by hand, but absolutely everything must be indicated: the dimensions of the room, the installation location and dimensions of appliances and plumbing in the bathroom, the location of the pipes, their diameter and the exact length to each node, it is necessary to indicate all fittings, their type and size , installation locations where the pipe bends and turns. Well, that's all. Before you begin installation, you should show this diagram to a professional. It makes no sense to begin work on dismantling the old pipeline before the final design is ready and all materials have been purchased.

We select and purchase the required materials: pipes, fittings, tools

After drawing up the diagram, it is necessary to calculate how many and what kind of pipes, fittings and other fittings will be needed. It is advisable to buy everything with a margin of 5 - 10%, since anything can happen during the installation process. Of course, the price for water distribution in an apartment will depend on the chosen pipe material and installation method. The collector circuit immediately increases the cost of laying the pipeline several times. Pipelines made of metal-plastic pipes and polypropylene can be considered average in cost and optimal in characteristics. Copper and stainless steel pipelines will be more expensive.

Only after all materials and tools for installation have been purchased can you begin to dismantle the old water supply system. If you plan to change not only the internal pipes, but also the supply lines, then it is necessary to shut off the water supply to the riser. You cannot do this yourself, only a plumber from the management company.

We install water pipes from metal-plastic pipes

Metal-plastic pipes can be connected in two ways: compression fittings or press connections.

Metal-plastic pipes connected by compression fittings can only be used for open pipe laying. The connection is made like this:

• We measure and cut the pipe to the required size.
• Using a chamfer calibrator, we remove the chamfer from the pipe.
• We put the nut from the fitting kit on the pipe.
• Then we insert the ring.
• We insert the fitting and crimp it with two open-end wrenches.

This connection is considered a threaded connection, which means it is susceptible to leaks; the pipes must be checked and the connection tightened at least once a year.

The connection with press fittings can be laid using both open and closed methods. It's done like this:

• We measure and cut the required section of pipe.
• Let's calibrate.
• We insert the pipe into the fitting and press it using a hand press.

The resulting connection is durable, able to withstand sudden changes in pressure, but non-separable.

Metal-plastic pipes bend, the maximum bending radius is 3 – 5 pipe diameters. The section of the pipe to the fitting must be level at least 5 - 7 cm.

We install water pipes from polypropylene pipes

For cold water we use pipes with a diameter of 25 mm with a wall thickness of 2.8 mm, and for hot water we use reinforced pipes with the same diameter, but with a wall thickness of 3.2 mm.

• We cut the pipes into the required lengths with special scissors, holding them strictly perpendicular.
• On the pipes we mark the welding depth (it depends on the depth of the fitting), for example, 1.6 mm.
• Using a trimmer, we remove the middle layer of the pipe to a depth of 1 - 2 mm.
• We install nozzles of the required diameter on the welding machine and turn it on, setting the temperature to 240 - 260 °C.
• We begin welding when the lights on the welding machine go out. We push both pipes or a pipe and a fitting onto the nozzles of the welding machine, evenly, without twisting, to the mark on the pipe.
• After 7 seconds, remove the pipes. We start counting the seconds from the moment we put the pipes on the nozzles and started moving along them. When removing pipes from the welding machine, it is necessary for a second person to hold it, since it is very light.
• Carefully connect the pipes to each other (or a pipe and a fitting), placing one on top of the other. Under no circumstances do we make rotational movements. Everything needs to be done smoothly and quickly.

We wait a few seconds until the connection cools down, then the pipes can be used. You should get a beautiful perpendicular connection, if you are not happy with the result, then the connection should be cut and the whole procedure should be repeated, cutting off the damaged piece.

Do-it-yourself water distribution in an apartment is completed by checking the assembled pipeline, i.e. crimping with a special device. Only after good results have been obtained from testing the connections and pipes for strength under high pressure, can the water be connected. All pipes and connections should be inspected for leaks.

The importance of proper design

It cannot be underestimated how important it is to create a detailed design. An incorrectly created wiring diagram can lead to rapid occurrence of malfunctions - low pressure, wear, as well as various types of leaks. In fact, the designer’s task is simple - to draw lines from the central riser of an apartment building, bypassing or passing through the water heater, to each of the liquid flow points, but in reality the master is faced with a lot of nuances.

The scheme is complicated by the presence of several bathrooms, as well as the use of household appliances that require connection to a water supply. The more plumbing facilities, the higher the load on the entire system, the more complex the project needs to be created.

As a result, here are the problems that proper design can help solve:

• improves the basic characteristics of the water supply system;
• reduces installation and operating costs;
• makes it easier to carry out repair work in the future.

Wiring types

So, what kind of pipe layout can a water supply have?

Orientation

Vertical wiring includes risers and vertical connections, horizontal wiring includes spills and horizontal connections. The vast majority of residential buildings use both types of water distribution through plumbing fixtures: in a typical apartment building, after the water metering unit, water enters a horizontal outlet and then into vertical risers, and from there it is transported to water collection points via horizontal connections.

Connecting vertical risers to horizontal filling

Basement and attic

The lower distribution of hot water supply is more typical for apartment buildings and private houses: one dead-end or two circulation bottlings are distributed throughout the basement with its year-round positive temperature.

In most cases, cold water supply is installed in the same way: lower distribution in the basement or underground eliminates defrosting of the bottling in the absence of water analysis.

Bottom distribution: bottling in the basement

An alternative is to install bottling systems in the attic. A few words about the advantages of overhead distribution: water supply, when water is supplied from a pressure tank, becomes non-volatile and is accompanied by minimal hydraulic losses.

In addition, if the house has an overhead distribution system, the hot water supply with circulation will not suffer from airing of the jumpers between the risers: all the air will be forced into the expansion tank at the top filling point in the attic and further into the atmosphere, through an automatic air vent.

Hot water bottling in the attic. Nearby is a prefabricated sewer ventilation outlet

Deadlock and circulation

We have already mentioned in passing the circulation and dead-end water supply schemes.

It's time to give a couple of clear definitions:

1. A dead-end system is a system in which water begins to move only during its disassembly: it passes through the bottling, riser, liner and plumbing fixture;
2. In a circulation circuit, a pressure difference or pump operation ensures continuous movement of water through a looped pipeline. This stabilizes the temperature of the water at the points where it is collected (remember how long it takes to drain the water in the morning in old houses?) and ensures the continuous operation of water heated towel rails.

The DHW circulation system is indicated by the presence of two hot water dispensers

Tees and manifolds

Sequential (tee) wiring is common for residential buildings built in the last century: all water points are connected to one pipe through bends and tees. The obvious advantages of the solution are the possibility of open installation and low material consumption.

Daisy chain wiring

Collector wiring is the connection of water collection points to the collector comb with their own connections. Such water pipes are much more expensive than tee pipes and are installed only hidden (imagine a dozen parallel pipes running along the wall in the bathroom!), which means installation only during construction or major repairs.

Each device is equipped with its own connection

Collector wiring has two advantages:

1. If you fully open the hot water or hot water tap in the kitchen, then on the shower or bath mixer the pressure ratio of cold and hot water will remain unchanged. It won’t scald or pour ice water on anyone;
2. Disabling any device is possible from a single center - the manifold cabinet. This is very useful in a hostel or hotel: in an emergency, you can selectively turn off one consumer, even without access to his premises.

From the manifold cabinet you can turn off the water to any plumbing fixture

Which water pipes should be used to distribute water in an apartment?

We will talk about the common types used in the construction of apartment buildings. You can replace them with another material from the list. They differ in cost, service life, environmental friendliness, and additional unique characteristics. Let's look at the types.

Copper

Their advantages:

• anti-corrosion properties;
• immunity to strong heat - up to 250 degrees;
• elasticity, which reduces the likelihood of mechanical damage;
• you can make the most non-standard configurations, with many bends.

Minuses:

• upon contact with aluminum or steel, a galvanic couple appears;
• installation is carried out using special solders;
• high current conductivity.

Metal-plastic

Advantages:

• no rust forms at all;
• the inside walls are smooth, no deposits of impurities form;
• easy to connect fragments with threaded bushings;
• greater elasticity.

Flaws:

• are not suitable for hidden gaskets, since rubber O-rings can dry out and crack over time, allowing liquid to leak.

Made from polybutylene

They tolerate liquids heated to 90 degrees well. The soldering technology is very reliable, so the joints are durable. But the material is expensive, it is used quite rarely, mainly when creating warm, heated floors.

Polyethylene

They have additional reinforcement, but are still considered not the most durable. In this regard, they are not recommended for installation in large water supply networks. A pressure not exceeding 3.5 atmospheres can be maintained inside. If there is more pressure coming from the source, then you should connect a reducer, it will reduce this parameter. There is one big plus, which is relevant not for apartments, but for private houses - freezing of liquid is allowed.

Made from polyvinyl chloride

Positive sides:

MBFT-75 Membrane for 75GPD

SF-mix Clack up to 0.8 m3/h

SF-mix Runxin up to 0.8 m3/h

• resistance to chemicals;
• heating of drinking liquid up to 80 degrees is allowed.

Negative:

• does not react well to direct sunlight;
• pressure - no more than 3.5 atm., otherwise the welded seam may rupture.

Made from polysopropylene

An excellent option for distributing cold water and hot water in an apartment or office. Connections are formed simply - the soldering method is used. The joints are reliable and can withstand up to 12 atmospheres. In this case, the liquid can be heated up to 130 degrees. The inside surface is somewhat rough, but no salt deposits form. And all this is complemented by the low price of the material.

Equipment

What pipes, fittings and fittings may be required to distribute water around a house or apartment with your own hands?

Armature

Here is its minimum set:

Image	Description
Ball valve	Ball Valves. They are the most reliable and trouble-free type of shut-off valves, do not require maintenance and are available for many types of connections - threads, sleeve welding, etc.
Filter with flushing outlet	Mechanical filter. In most cases, a single filter is installed at the inlet immediately after the tap; it protects the internal water supply from large suspensions, debris and sand. The presence of a filter is especially important if you use plumbing fixtures with ceramic valves: trying to shut off the water when the faucet or cartridge plates are jammed with a grain of sand will cause irreversible damage to them.
Device with pulse output for DHW	Water meter. SP 30.13330.2016 prescribes the use of devices with a pulse output, which allows dispatch equipment to control water flow in real time. When water consumption is 10 cubic meters per day or less, the diameter of the meter should be 15 mm.

In addition to the equipment listed, the following can be used in internal water supply systems:

Image	Description
Pumping station Caliber SVD1550	Pumping station. It is used to organize autonomous water supply from shallow (up to 9-25 meters depending on the presence or absence of an external ejector) sources and is a set of a surface pump, a pressure switch that controls it and a membrane tank.
Multistage well pump design	A submersible pump is used to supply water from a deep well or artesian well. For clean water, vortex and multistage pumps are used. Cheaper vibration ones have a short service life between repairs and contribute to silting of wells and wells.
Horizontal accumulator	A hydraulic accumulator (a steel tank divided by an elastic membrane into air and water compartments) allows you to create a supply of water and release it into the water supply with a sufficiently high pressure.
Expansion tank for heating and hot water needs	The expansion tank, identical in design to the hydraulic accumulator, can compensate for the increase in the volume of water in a closed circuit as its temperature rises.
Brass safety valve	The safety valve duplicates the function of the expansion tank, releasing excess water into the drain when the critical pressure is exceeded.
Relay for automatic start and stop of the pump	The pressure switch turns the pump on and off depending on the level of water pressure in the internal network.
Spring check valve	A check valve allows the working medium to flow in only one direction, excluding counterflow. In the water supply of apartments and cottages, spring valves are used, less often - ball valves.
Fine filtration equipment	A fine filter allows you to remove fine impurities from water and most of the salts, lime and iron oxides dissolved in it.
Pressure reducer: the arrow on the body shows the direction of flow of the working fluid	A pressure reducer stabilizes it at a given level and is mounted at the water supply inlet.
Diaphragm hydraulic shock absorber from Valtec	The water hammer damper eliminates short-term increases in pressure during a sudden stop of circulation in the hot water supply system or during rapid filling of a cold water supply system.
Automatic air vent	An automatic air vent prevents the circulation of hot water from being disrupted by air pockets.
Three-pass water mixing unit	The thermomixing unit regulates the temperature in the circulation circuit by adding hotter or colder water to it. It can have a built-in or remote temperature sensor, be non-volatile or powered from the electrical network.
Circulation pump from Dab company	The circulation pump, as the name suggests, is responsible for circulating water in the hot water supply.

Fittings, pipes

The modern market offers the buyer two main types of pipes:

1. Metal;
2. Polymer and composite.

The former are exceptionally resistant to high temperatures and water hammer. The latter cannot boast of such high reliability: at temperatures above 90-100 °C, both resistance to hydrostatic pressure and the service life of the pipe drop catastrophically.

Dependence of the service life of a polypropylene pipeline on water supply parameters

Now let's remember the conditions under which your water supply system will serve.

In a cottage with an autonomous water supply, in a centralized cold water supply system of a single- or apartment building, as well as in a hot water supply system when heating water in a heat exchanger or individual heat generator, the likelihood of pressure and temperature leaving normal values ​​is practically absent. There you can safely install polymer and metal-polymer water pipes.

Metal-polymer liner for indirect heating boiler

But in hot water systems with water supplied directly from the heating main (that is, in most Soviet-built houses), the picture is not so bleak:

• Faulty fittings or low qualifications of the mechanic servicing the house can lead to water hammer. For it to occur, it is enough to quickly close the valve or valve in the thermal chamber or elevator unit;

Water hammer at high water temperatures led to the destruction of the water pipeline

• If the hot water supply is not switched from supply to return pipeline in time, the water supply system may be subject to unscheduled tests: the supply temperature of the heating main in winter can reach +150°C. The reaction to such overheating of pipes designed for operation at 60-90 degrees is quite predictable;

Above is a graph of the heating main supply temperature

• A malfunction of the hot water valves during the annual temperature test of the heating main will lead to the same result.

That is why in a house with elevator units we strongly recommend installing only and exclusively metal water pipes.

In stores you can find three types of relevant materials:

Image	Description
The risers and their branches are galvanized	Galvanized steel pipes GOST 3262-75. Unlike black gas ones, they are not subject to corrosion and suffer to a much lesser extent from the formation of deposits on the internal walls. The author would consider the disadvantages of galvanizing to be labor-intensive installation with precise adjustment of the dimensions of the pipes and exclusively on threaded connections: welding deprives the pipes of all its advantages over black steel, burning the zinc coating.
Copper water supply connections	Copper pipes GOST 617-2006. They have bactericidal properties, bend (however, with a fairly large bending radius) and boast a destructive pressure of 200 atmospheres or more. The disadvantage of the material is its price (from 250 rubles/meter). To connect water supply elements, socket soldering, compression fittings and fittings with deformable sleeves are used.
Internal water supply from corrugated pipes Cofulso	Corrugated stainless steel pipes have a tensile strength of 200-210 atmospheres with a wall thickness of 0.3 mm versus 0.8-1 mm for a copper pipe. Lower material consumption has a very pleasant effect on the cost: a 15 mm pipe costs the buyer 105-150 rubles per meter. The service life of pipes is unlimited; Silicone seals of compression fittings must be replaced after three decades of service.

Let's move on to plastic and metal-plastic.

Image	Description
Soldering PPR pipe connections	PPR (polypropylene) pipes are the undisputed market leader in terms of cheapness: a meter of 20 mm pipe without reinforcement costs 20-40 rubles. Polypropylene water supply installation is typical for all new buildings. Coupling soldering is used to connect pipes and equally inexpensive fittings.
Coupling connection of pressure polyethylene pipes	Polyethylene pipes are low-temperature (long-term operating temperature - up to 40°C) and are used primarily for installing water supply inlets from the main water supply or an independent source. Pipes are connected to fittings and to each other using compression, or less commonly, electric-welded fittings. For pipelines with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more, butt welding is used.
PEX Pipe Connection Installation	PEX polyethylene differs from ordinary polyethylene due to lateral bonds between long molecules, which change its physical and chemical properties: cross-linked polyethylene can withstand heating up to 70-110°C, has a higher strength than conventional PE and boasts a unique property - shape memory. It is used primarily for manifold distribution of water and underfloor heating systems, mounted on fittings and compression connections.
Coil of PERT pipes	PERT polyethylene is produced by introducing copolymers into the original polymer and has properties similar to PEX (minus the molecular memory). Socket welding and compression fittings are used to connect pipes.
Metal-polymer pipe PERT/AL/PERT	Metal-plastic is two shells made of PERT or PEX with an aluminum tube glued between them. The metal core somewhat increases the tensile strength of the pipeline and gives it rigidity. Push and press fittings and products with sleeves deformable by pliers are used for installation.

Flexible eyeliners

Flexible hoses are needed, first of all, for connecting household and sanitary equipment to the water supply.

Only two of their varieties deserve special comment:

• Metal corrugated hoses. In fact, they are a piece of corrugated pipe with flared ends and union nuts on them. This is a “set it and forget it” solution: as we remember, the service life of stainless steel is unlimited;

The boiler in the photo is connected with corrugated hoses

• Metal braided hoses with PEX cores. If their predecessors with a rubber core lasted no more than five years, then products based on cross-linked polyethylene will require replacement in at least half a century.

PEX liner structure

Calculation of required building materials

The size depends on the number of plumbing fixtures and household appliances that consume the resource. In an average apartment, usually 20-22 mm in diameter is enough for risers, and 16-18 mm for bends.

The number of fittings, as well as the total length of the pipeline, is calculated based on the project. However, we recommend taking 10% more.

Which pipes to choose for sewerage

Pipe type	Peculiarities
bays	There are no sockets, so connections are made with couplings. But there are no scraps or waste left.
In pieces	A piece of pipe is inserted into the socket of the previous one; fittings are used only when it is necessary to change the direction of drains, when combining horizontal lines, etc.

Horizontal lines are mounted from 50 mm pipes, risers - from 100 mm.

For stable operation of the system after each bath, sink, washing machine, etc. (except for the toilet and shower) you need to install a gyroscope siphon. Siphons are installed by default in toilets and showers.

On curved sections, standard fittings without threads are used. It is recommended to install assemblies from pipe fittings rather than using ready-made ones.

Advantages and disadvantages of a combined and separate bathroom

AMETHYST - 02 M Residential building for up to 10 people or up to 2 cubic meters/day.

Aeration unit AS-1054 VO-90

Main table dispenser AquaPro 919H/RO (hot and cold water)

The main advantage of combining a toilet and a bathroom is the ease of wiring. In addition, due to the absence of a wall and one door frame, the useful area can be increased; a sink and even a washing machine can be placed.

There is also a minus, it is especially noticeable with a large family - it is difficult to take bath procedures for a long time when there is a line of people wanting to go to the toilet outside the door.

Why is it important to make a plan?

The purpose of installing water supply wiring is to supply water to plumbing fixtures, kitchen appliances, washing machines and other devices. In an ordinary apartment, this task does not seem too difficult. However, the configuration and layout of modern apartments differs significantly from the typical housing of past years. To supply water to all devices, sometimes you have to create quite complex wiring. You cannot assemble it “on the go”; you need a well-thought-out plan or installation diagram.

It is recommended to do the following:

• carefully consider the placement of household and plumbing fixtures;
• measure the distance along the wall from the hot and cold water risers to the installation points of plumbing and other devices;
• draw up a drawing (to scale) where all pipe dimensions are indicated, fittings and shut-off devices are marked.

Such a plan will help you think through the installation process and more accurately calculate the number of fittings and other components. The ability to visually examine the wiring diagram of the water supply network will make it possible to correct errors and ensure hidden installation of pipes for the convenience of subsequent finishing. Based on the drawing data, a specification is drawn up, which indicates the number of pipes, fittings, valves and other wiring components. This will allow you to immediately purchase the required amount of materials and begin installation.

Stages of correct plumbing installation in an apartment, photo

Having minimal skills in working with tools, it is quite possible to replace the pipeline yourself. Here are the basic steps:

• Preparation. Includes the creation of a project, calculation and purchase of building materials.
• Dismantling of the old pipeline, if any.
• Installation according to water distribution. It includes laying, insulation (if necessary), connecting actions, for example, soldering.
• Creation of decorative elements.

We will describe the main stages in more detail.

How to make a diagram correctly

First, you should determine the material of manufacture and characteristics (stiffness, connection methods, the presence of different bends, contours, pipes, elbows and other elements are important). Then start creating the drawing. It will have:

• location of water intake points;
• pipeline laying geometry;
• building materials used;
• connection types;
• places of locking mechanisms;
• location of meters and other devices, if needed.

What do plumbers call a point?

This is the place where the outlet is inserted into the riser or the supply to the water intake device. It can be single (only cold water, as for a dishwasher or washing machine, toilet) or double, that is, together with a hot tap - shower, bathtub, jacuzzi, sink and washbasin, bidet.

Plastic pipes

Today, plastic pipes are the most popular option for organizing water supply in an apartment. Let's look at what polymer materials can be used to distribute water:

1. Polybutylene (PB). This material has a high thermal conductivity coefficient and is quite plastic, so if necessary it can be bent. The maximum operating temperature for polybutylene parts reaches 90 °C. Polybutylene communication is installed using soldering equipment. The main disadvantage is the high cost.

   

   Many types of polymer pipes are connected by heating their ends with a special device, this gives one of the most reliable connections

2. Polyethylene (PE). Polyethylene products are not the best option for organizing proper water distribution in an apartment. This is especially true for hot water supply (DHW), since PE pipes have a maximum operating temperature that does not exceed 60 °C. For hot water supply it is necessary to use reinforced PE products. The operating pressure for products made from this material does not exceed 3.5 atmospheres, and in apartment buildings jumps up to 6 atmospheres are possible (in systems transporting cold water) and 4.5 atmospheres in hot water pipes. The main advantage of PE parts is that they are not afraid of freezing. When installing a water supply structure made of polyethylene, experts recommend providing protection against leaks (installing Aquastop).
3. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Communications made of polyvinyl chloride are resistant to corrosive influences and active chemical compounds. The cost of pipes for water distribution in an apartment made from this material is quite affordable. The maximum temperature that PVC parts can withstand reaches 80 °C. Among the disadvantages of PVC are the following: weak strength, lack of resistance to ultraviolet radiation. Installation of PVC communications is carried out by gluing the joints or soldering them.
4. Propylene or polypropylene (PP). Propylene pipes for water supply are the most common option today. Communications made from PP are low cost and accessible, and have a high strength coefficient (as for plastic).

The maximum operating temperature for polypropylene pipeline is 130 °C. Properly organized pipe routing allows you to obtain a system that can withstand pressure up to 12 atmospheres. The smooth walls of PP pipes eliminate the possibility of salt deposits. Thus, PP pipes are the answer to the question of which pipes to use for water supply systems in apartments.

Note! The main disadvantage of PP products is their installation, which is carried out with special soldering equipment.

Modern water supply systems in apartments are most often installed from polypropylene pipes

Selection and preparation of materials and tools

From the list presented above, we recommend using modern, reliable products made of polypropylene or metal-plastic. They are affordable, of sufficient quality, and can withstand high temperatures. Stainless steel or copper structures are much more expensive, and you will have to work hard to install them and involve specialists. But they do not require dismantling and repair for many years.

Installation

First, choose a suitable scheme - tee or beam. Then the laying method is open or closed (in wall grooves followed by putty). Next, we carry out the work, taking into account the rules:

• the scheme always starts from a source in the apartment/house;
• you will definitely need to install shut-off valves;
• At the beginning of the entire system there must be a coarse filter; it can be ordered from;
• the height of the line is about 15-20 cm from the floor;
• the use of casing pipes will protect walls and ceilings.

Step-by-step work algorithm

Let's consider the procedure for installing water supply wiring in an apartment. This will be useful for all owners planning to do the work themselves. For other users, knowledge of the installation work algorithm will allow them to more consciously control the work of invited specialists and evaluate their actions with understanding.

Each wiring diagram uses its own specific methodology for performing the work. However, in both cases there are common work plan items that must be completed in any case. Also common are the technology for connecting pipes, the composition of control devices and shut-off valves.

Attention! Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the risers. If pipes need to be replaced, the work must be carried out by specialists from the management company, since water supply risers are considered common property.

Installation of ball valves

Ball valves are the first elements installed on the outlets of hot and cold water pipes from risers. They are used to shut off water when repairs or maintenance of the system are necessary.

You must select devices based on the following requirements:

• operating pressure should be up to 60 atmospheres;
• permissible water temperature - up to +150°;
• The valve body must be made of bronze.

The last requirement is very important, since there are many products on the market from Southeast Asian countries that are made from low-quality materials, including silumin. The bodies of such cranes sometimes break on their own. If the owner is not at home at such a moment to urgently turn off the water in the basement or call an emergency, all apartments on the lower floors will be flooded. This situation cannot be allowed, so the choice of shut-off valves should be taken with full responsibility.

In addition, it is recommended to install taps with built-in filters. According to the scheme, various devices will be installed further - meters, gearboxes, a manifold with shut-off valves. Sometimes the water in the riser carries rust or even small particles. This happens after renovation work, replacing valves in the basement and other actions. The ability to immediately filter out all dirt will preserve the functionality of all pipes, wiring elements, and other devices located further along the pipe.

The tap is installed with the supply valves in the basement closed. There are many videos on the Internet about installing a pressure tap. They should be viewed as a kind of trick that should never be repeated. If something goes wrong, a flood is guaranteed for the neighbors below. You can open the valves in the basement only after connecting the tap and setting it to the “closed” position.

Installation of meters for hot and cold water

Water meters (flow meters, to be more precise) are sold complete with all connecting elements. As a rule, special union nuts with adapters are present along with the meter. When installing, you need to pay attention to the arrows on the meter body. They show the direction of water movement.

In addition, it is necessary to ensure the correct position of the body. There are meters for horizontal and vertical installation. It’s easy to distinguish them - you need to rotate the device’s dial to the correct position. If the connecting pipes are located on a horizontal axis, then the meter is designed for horizontal installation, and vice versa.

It is also recommended to install check valves together with the meters (between common taps and meters), which will provide protection against water flowing in the opposite direction.

All connections must be well sealed using plumbing flax or FUM tape. FUM is a fluoroplastic sealing material, it is a soft thin tape. It is very effective as a winder, does not change its qualities over time and does not react to water temperature.

Attention! Plumbing flax and FUM tape must be wound clockwise so that when screwing on the nuts, the winding remains in place and seals the threaded connection. Before final assembly, the elements should be dry-fitted to ensure that they fit together and that there are no thread defects.

Gearbox installation

Reducers in the water supply system are necessary to compensate for excessively high or unevenly changing pressure. They are installed if plumbing fixtures with limited water pressure are used. It must be taken into account that gearboxes are rarely installed in apartments, since they are located at the entrance to the house or on the lower section of the riser. Basically, gearboxes are used in private homes, public or industrial buildings and structures.

What you will need

Both the elements of the plumbing system and the tools for installation are equally necessary. The latter can even be rented if they are not in the full set.

Main valve

It is also called incoming shut-off valves. The product is mounted at the point where the line connects to the riser. The valve is necessary to shut off the flow of water into the apartment. Will be needed in such situations:

• repair, replacement of pipeline;
• connection of new household devices, plumbing;
• a break or leak - the tap will help prevent flooding of the neighbors below.

Filtering devices

At least a minimal water treatment system is required, which will consist of filters:

Main table dispenser AquaPro 929CH/RO (cooling/heating)

Floor dispenser AquaPro 311 (empty, without cooling)

Floor-standing dispenser AquaPro 6207CH (cooling/heating/room temp.)

• Rough cleaning. They are made in the form of meshes with tiny cells that trap contaminants - rust and other large impurities. Sometimes there are built-in self-cleaning options. Installed next to shut-off valves.
• Fine cleaning. Usually these are sorption cartridges. They make the liquid drinkable and are often mounted under the sink. Cartridges need to be replaced regularly.

The best filters with delivery and installation can be ordered at.

Regulating devices

These include:

• stabilizing reducer to maintain optimal pressure;
• check valves to prevent reverse flow.

Metering devices

These are DHW and cold water meters. You can install them yourself, but you will have to invite specialists for testing, calibration and sealing. When purchasing a device, make sure that this model complies with GOST.

Emergency devices

The device is not required to be installed, but is highly recommended. Its work is that in the event of any accident (a pipe bursts, a faucet comes off, etc.), the pressure in the water supply system decreases. This way you can avoid a local flood on an apartment scale.

Other additional items

Can be included in the network:

• pressure gauges are measuring instruments;
• collectors for distributing flow along outlets;
• shut-off valves.

Don't forget the tools. The result and speed of work will directly depend on their quality.

General rules

General rules for the distribution of water supply and sewerage in residential buildings are contained in SP 30.13330.2016.

We present the key points of the set of rules:

• The temperature of hot water at plumbing fixtures should be within the range of 60-65°C, regardless of the method of its preparation (by extraction from the heating network, heating in heat exchangers or local heating devices);

It’s curious: SP 30.13330.2012, adopted just four years earlier, specified the maximum permissible hot water temperature at +75°C.

• The composition of water (including hot) and its quality must meet the requirements of SanPiN 2.1.4.1074 “Drinking water”;

Water quality standards

• Lower quality water can be supplied to urinals and toilet cisterns;

Please note: this point is relevant mainly for owners of cottages with autonomous water supply systems. As far as the author of the article knows, there are no main water pipelines with non-potable water in our country, as a class.

Untreated water can be supplied to the drain tank

• The maximum permissible water pressure on a plumbing fixture is 4.5 atmospheres. It can be increased to 6 atmospheres if a low-rise residential building is built in a multi-storey building. If the specified values ​​are exceeded, pressure control valves must be used;

By the way: the previous version of the joint venture set the minimum permissible pressure equal to that specified in the technical documentation of the plumbing equipment (if such information is missing, equal to 20 meters, which corresponds to 2 atmospheres of pressure). In 30.13330.2016 there are no restrictions on minimum pressure.

• Cold water pipes laid in shafts, niches, plumbing cabins and wet rooms must be insulated to prevent water condensation on their surface;

Insulation reduces condensation formation

• The hot water supply system must provide water circulation to maintain its stable temperature at the points of analysis;
• Water heated towel rails can be connected to DHW circulation pipelines only if a bypass and shut-off valves are installed. Where this is not possible, water appliances are replaced with electric ones;
• DHW pipes (except for connections) must be insulated to reduce heat loss;

Hot fill insulation in basement

• Horizontal distribution of the water supply system of a residential building should be carried out in basements, technical floors and attics. In their absence, it is permissible to lay pipes in underground channels along with the pipelines of the heating system, under a floor with a removable covering, as well as along the ceilings of non-residential premises on the top floor of the house;
• Riser pipes and water inlets into apartments must be installed in shafts with technical cabinets equipped with hatches for easy access to them. Open distribution of risers along the walls of kitchens, baths, toilets and storage rooms is allowed;

Water supply risers in the bathroom niche

• Water fittings (faucets, toilet cisterns, etc.) can be connected to autonomous connections using an apartment collector or to a common supply using tee connections;
• Threaded connections of steel pipelines cannot be installed hidden. The only exception is corners and water sockets for mounting a wall-mounted mixer;
• Water supply and sewerage pipes can only be laid together in passage channels, with the waste pipe attached below the pressure pipe;
• When laying hot water and cold water pipes together, the cold pipe is attached below the hot one;

Hot pipe is at the top, cold pipe is at the bottom

• Horizontal distribution of cold water supply and hot water supply must be carried out with a slope of at least 0.002 (in cramped conditions - 0.001);

Hint: the slope will allow you to completely drain the water during repair work and to prevent the pipes from defrosting. The instructions regarding the inclination of the laying apply only to inlets and bottlings: connections to individual devices can be mounted horizontally.

• Water can be distributed in rooms with a temperature that does not fall below +2°C. In colder rooms, the water supply is supplied with cable heating or thermal support;

Open section of water pipeline with cable heating

• Near entrance doors, gates and windows that open in the cold season, pipes must be thermally insulated;
• Fittings and pipes must comply with current hygiene standards;
• Fittings and pipes used in internal water supply systems must last at least 50 years at +20°C and 25 at +75°C and standard pressure;

It’s interesting: in the previous version of the document there was a clause according to which the hydraulic resistance of the pipeline could not change during its service life, which put an end to GOST 3262-75 gas pipes overgrown with rust. There is no corresponding clause in SP 30.13330.2016; however, this does not cancel the ban on the use of gas pipes: they do not meet the standard service life of the water supply system.

Twenty years later: steel water supply risers two decades after the house was commissioned

• Inputs, risers of 3 floors and above, connections with 5 or more water points, connections to tanks and water heaters must be equipped with shut-off valves;

By the way: when connecting several DHW risers with a circulation jumper, each of them is supplied with taps at the base and on the top floor.

• The pressure reducer is installed at the entrance to the apartment or cottage after the valve or tap and filter, but before the water meter;

Note: an innovation was the refusal to install pressure gauges before and after the gearbox (previously it was recommended) and adjusting the gearbox by the homeowner (it was not encouraged, but it was not prohibited either).

Now the gearbox can be installed without pressure gauges

• Check valves are needed in front of group mixers and at the connection of the water heater to the circulation pipeline. Previously, it was recommended to install the valve at the inlets of hot and cold water into the apartment in order to avoid reverse flow of the meters;

However: the water supplier who sells it to the homeowner still has the right to demand the installation of a meter with a non-return valve, but only after agreement with local authorities.

• There should be automatic air vents at the top points of the hot water supply and hot water supply lines, and vents at the bottom points.

Discharges at the lowest point of spills

However: to bleed air and discharge water, it is not forbidden to use water fittings on the outermost floors.

Metering devices

• Entrances to buildings and their individual premises, which have their own owner or responsible tenant, are supplied with metering devices;
• Analysis of cold and hot water is taken into account separately;

Meters for hot and cold water inputs to the apartment

Captain Obviousness suggests: this does not apply to the preparation of hot water in individual water heaters. In this case, the homeowner receives only cold water from the main water supply and separately pays for energy consumption through an electric or gas meter.

• When installing meters on the DHW supply and circulation pipelines, the latter is equipped with a check valve;
• There must be a filter in front of each meter in the direction of water flow;
• General metering devices can be installed inside the building, in illuminated rooms with a temperature of +5°C and above, or in wells. In the latter case, meters are used that can operate during flooding;

Water meter in the basement of an apartment building

• General water meters are equipped with shut-off valves before and after the meter, apartment water meters (including single-apartment residential buildings) - only before the meter.

Help about collector blocks

This is a brass or steel riser with branches. It is connected to other parts of the water supply system with threaded connections. When choosing, you need to focus on the number of outlets for pipes. On average there are 6 holes. If you need more, you can connect two or more collectors. If, on the contrary, there is an extra point for commutation, it can be closed with a plug.

Common mistakes: how to properly install water and sewerage in an apartment

• If a pipeline with hot drinking liquid runs inside the walls, then you must take care of thermal insulation, otherwise the heat will escape to the ceilings.
• Plastic expands during use. It is necessary to make a “reserve” of space, and also wrap such a pipeline with padding polyester.
• It is necessary to check and close all end cuts with plugs, otherwise contaminants may enter the system.
• Before soldering, surfaces must be cleaned and degreased.
• Sewer and water supply elements should not intersect and interfere with the simple maintenance of one of the communications.

What material should I choose from?

There are quite a few options for water pipes, the main difference being the material from which they are made. The materials for such pipes can be metal, plastic and metal-plastic. Each type of material, like any plumbing fixture, has its pros and cons:

1. Cink Steel. This material is quite durable. The service life of products made from this material can reach 25 years. The protective zinc coating prevents the effects of corrosion on the pipes. But due to mechanical stress, the layer may be damaged and then areas with damaged zinc coating may begin to rust.
2. Stainless steel. A material characterized by durability and strength. The service life can sometimes reach up to half a century. Products made from this material are resistant to mechanical stress and corrosion. The main disadvantage of such products is, perhaps, their high price.
3. Copper. Copper pipes are quite durable and do not corrode. Copper is a rather expensive material, and in addition, it requires the use of fittings made of the same material, the price of which, by the way, is quite high. The service life of these pipes can reach up to 70 years. Copper pipes can also become a very original interior decoration.
4. Metal-plastic. Products made of metal-plastic are excellently characterized by such parameters as high corrosion resistance and low price. In addition, pipes made of this material have such a pleasant feature as resistance to salt deposits on the internal walls, as well as the accumulation of debris on them. The service life of metal-plastic products is about 30 years. The main disadvantage of products made from this material is low thermal stability (the water temperature in the system should not be more than 95°C).
5. Polyethylene (PE) Products made from this material are distinguished by a fairly high strength coefficient and are quite easy to install. But you need to remember that these pipes are extremely undesirable to use for the construction of hot water pipes, due to the low heat resistance of polyethylene. But for cold water supply in a private home, polyethylene products will be an ideal option; pipes made from this material are often used to install a sewerage system. The service life of polyethylene pipes is 30 years.
6. Polypropylene (PP). A material that combines qualities such as strength and durability, the service life of products made from this material is 50 years. Products made from polypropylene are not subject to the destructive effects of corrosion, and the inner surface of the walls is quite smooth, which prevents the formation of salt deposits. Installation of these pipes is done using a welding machine. For hot water supply, reinforced PP pipes are installed.

How much does water supply cost?

The cost will depend on many factors, in particular:

• connection type - tee, manifold, combined (the first is the most budgetary);
• number of insertion points;
• pipeline length;
• material of the products used;
• availability of additional instruments for measuring pressure and preventing accidents;
• quality and manufacturer of parts (shut-off valves, etc.);
• performing the work yourself or ordering the services of specialists.

In the article, we told you how to make the correct plumbing for cold and hot water in an apartment with your own hands, and provided photos and water distribution diagrams. We wish you a successful repair.

Drawing up a water supply wiring diagram, what to consider?

The design of an apartment’s bathroom, drawn on a piece of paper by hand or drawn up by a professional, always takes into account not only the placement of plumbing fixtures, but also the methods of their connections, diagrams, methods of laying inlet and outlet branches. In this regard, regardless of whether you install communications yourself or hire third-party plumbers, you need to understand the fundamental points of piping assemblies.

What do plumbers call a point?

When calculating the cost of a job, misunderstandings often arise around this definition between the contractor and the customer. Therefore, using the wording “price per point”, find out what is included in it, and also estimate the total estimated cost of all work on the reconstruction of communications.

It is logical that a fixed price may be for some standard conditions for installing water supply in an average apartment. It will include the supply or drainage of water from the connection point of the plumbing fixture - an installed faucet for local use or a sewer inlet pipe in a bathroom or other room.

Note! Installation of the plumbing itself cannot be included in the cost of setting up the outlet. There is a big difference between the labor involved in connecting, for example, a washing machine and a hot tub. Therefore, payment for such operations is calculated separately, usually as a percentage of the price tag of the product.

Some equipment (washing machine or dishwasher) has only one recharge, being a single water point. If there are two supplies from cold (CW) and hot (HW) water (boiler, mixer), then this is a double point. Large lengths of pipe laying, complex or hidden wiring, and other special conditions additionally increase the cost of work, which is added to the price per point.

Types of piping

Delivery of water to the end consumer from a riser or other main pipeline is carried out through one of three types of plumbing: collector, tee (sequential) or with pass-through sockets.

In apartment buildings, two types of wiring are used: 1. Tee. 2. Collector.

The socket method is more suitable for outdoor quick-connect connections, for example for irrigation, and therefore is used for laying local communications in individual private houses or “strawberries” for several apartments.

Pass-through plumbing.

Collector wiring

An ideal solution for large apartments, especially if there is one riser with water collection points located remote from each other. Provides the best pressure and flow rates for each sanitary fixture. They are all connected to their own separate branches, originating in the manifold plumbing unit.

Collector water supply distribution.

Due to the fact that there is no selection of liquid along the path of liquid movement to the points of end consumers, the pressure for all consumers will be almost the same. The advantages of such a scheme for distributing water supply in an apartment include the concentration of control valves and other automation in one inspection unit, as well as the absence of unnecessary connections on branches in the form of tee bends.

A significant disadvantage of the collector method is its high material consumption. In addition, it is unlikely that all these bundles of pipes can be laid openly beautifully. Therefore, such independent laying is often preferred if a deep overhaul is planned in order to hide communications in the floor, monolid them with a screed, covering them with boxes or false walls.

Tee wiring

Previously, it was practically the only one, but even now it is not particularly losing its position. It consists of only two branches - cold and hot water, into which, along the path of their installation, outlet tees cut into. That is, sanitary equipment is connected one after another, sequentially.

Tee pipeline layout.

The method has earned its popularity due to the simplicity and speed of installation of apartment wiring, as well as the minimal possible use of material. Tee installation is suitable not only for replacing pipes at the stage of a major overhaul of the entire bathroom, it is also suitable if the replacement is caused by the need to urgently update emergency communications. After all, you can carefully lay a couple of branches openly without disturbing the decoration of the room.

The main disadvantage of the sequential wiring diagram for residential water supply is that consumers connected closer to the input are always given priority for water selection. With the simultaneous activation of shut-off valves in different sections of the water supply branch, the pressures at distant points will always be less than at the same nearby points. This problem is partly solved by installing pipes with a decrease in their diameter as they move away from the riser, as well as by looping the line back on itself.

Important! The selection of pipeline diameters (more on this below) should be carried out taking into account the length of the branch, peak flow rates at points, as well as a number of other factors. Such a problem can be solved only by calculation methods or guided by rich practical experience. By choosing pipe material by eye, instead of smoothing out pressure drops, you can get the opposite effect.

What else needs to be considered

When planning an apartment redevelopment that involves combining a toilet and a bathroom, you should carefully consider the placement of plumbing fixtures. For example, the variability in toilet positioning is often limited to a small area near the drain pipe. After all, if you take it to the far corner of the room, it may not fit into the slope of the sewer drain. Although sometimes this problem is solved by placing the toilet on a pedestal. The connection point for the hot water supply consumer, remote from the water heater, is also not the best solution - tens of liters of cooled water from a long supply will be regularly dumped into the sewer without any use.