How and with what to insulate a brick house under siding from the outside

Peculiarities

Covering a house with siding allows you to solve several problems at once:

• protect the facade of the building from the negative effects of the environment, and therefore extend its integrity and durability;
• increase the thermal efficiency of the building through the installation of siding based on the principle of ventilated technology, as well as through thermal insulation of the facade;
• give the building aesthetic appeal, unify it or, on the contrary, distinguish it from others.

Siding consists of panels that are attached using a “dry” method, that is, they do not require the use of concrete mixtures, but are attached to dowels or nailed.

The panels are usually fastened to a frame, which is placed on top of the facade. Thanks to this, you don’t have to achieve a perfectly smooth wall surface and turn a blind eye to minor defects - they won’t be noticeable under the sheathing. Moreover, by adjusting the thickness of the sheathing and its distance from the wall, it is possible to insert insulation of the required thickness between the facade and the siding.

As you know, external insulation is more effective than internal insulation and does not take up the usable area of ​​the room. By installing a heat insulator together with fastening the siding, it is possible to make this process even more convenient, efficient and less expensive

It is important that all the work can be done with your own hands, without being a professional builder

The ventilated cladding technology itself allows for some thermal efficiency, since an air gap is maintained between the siding and the facade, preventing heat loss. In the Russian climate, one thermal “cushion” 3-5 cm thick, of course, is not enough; installation of insulating material is necessary.

Under plaster

This process is distinguished by its ease, but it also requires accuracy. Insulation is carried out according to the following plan:

1. Remove various contaminants from the wall surface and treat it with a primer.
2. The heat insulator under the plaster is installed using glue and dowels. They press the sheet tightly and do not allow it to move, even if the glue loses its properties.
3. Reinforce the insulation using plaster mesh. Thanks to this, you can give the surface additional reliability. Then apply a special reinforcing solution. Thanks to it, high density is achieved.
4. Finally, apply final plaster to the surface. You can learn how to apply it from the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

It may also be useful for you to learn about how floor insulation occurs in a wooden house.

Materials and work

Sometimes the use of a certain technology is required due to the features of the design project of the building. At the same time, before starting insulation with siding, it is necessary to create a work plan. It is a kind of algorithm for performing work and determines the type and characteristics of the insulating material used.

It is possible to insulate the walls of a house using technology that involves the use of materials such as:

• Styrofoam;
• Expanded polystyrene;
• Mineral wool.

Sheathing with profile

The video and photos included in this article will tell you how to properly insulate a house and will illustrate the description of the basic rules for performing the work.

The timber is environmentally friendly, so it is very suitable for building a cottage. For such buildings, in most cases it is important to install siding with insulation yourself.

However, how to choose the most suitable thermal insulation material? To do this, you will need to carefully study the parameters of the possible options. They will be the determining factors in your choice.

Insulation and cladding scheme

If siding with insulation is done correctly, then the risk of microscopic cold bridges to the facade of your cottage will be reduced to zero. But in such bridges moisture constantly accumulates, which causes the appearance of mold, which is dangerous for the wood.

But, even despite the type of insulation, the work must involve the implementation of cladding for the insulating material. As such cladding you can use:

• brick;
• block house;
• or siding.

It is also worth noting that the type of cladding material influences the characteristics of the process of cladding the façade of a building.

For example, insulating a wooden house with siding and plaster are completely different things. To ensure that the final result of the work carried out pleases you, this is worth taking into account.

How to cover a brick house with siding

There are several ways to improve the facade of a residential building, while at the same time insulating it. This can be done during construction, using the so-called sandwich technology , or thermal insulation along with finishing can be done on an already in use building. In the second case, either “wet” insulation is used, in which the thermal insulation layer is plastered, or a ventilated facade system is installed, when the thermal insulation material is laid under the finishing cladding, which is done over the lathing.

If there are strong brick walls and a reliable foundation that can “survive” the additional load, the latter method of thermal insulation of the walls from the outside is usually used, and one of the types of siding is most often used as cladding. As insulation, priority is given to inexpensive and effective thermal insulation products, such as mineral wool and cellular polystyrene foam, better known as polystyrene foam.

Therefore, it is worth considering ways to insulate a brick house using each of these thermal insulation materials.

Insulation of the facade with mineral wool under the cladding

This material is the only insulation among the most used, which is made from natural raw materials , which are usually either some rocks or blast furnace slag. The fibers that make up the structure of the material of this heat insulator are obtained by melting the above-mentioned raw materials, therefore mineral wool has a strong advantage over polymer insulation - it does not burn at all. In addition, mineral wool has the following positive properties:

• does not emit chemical compounds hazardous to health;
• perfectly blocks not only heat flows, but also sound vibrations;
• allows steam and air to pass through, making the walls able to “breathe”;
• It has a long (up to 30-50 years) service life when the right conditions are created.

The disadvantage of mineral wool is considered to be hygroscopicity, that is, the ability to get wet and lose its performance properties. Also, many people do not like working with this heat-insulating agent because many small fragments of fibers fall off, especially when cutting, which irritate the skin and mucous membranes, including the respiratory tract. However, this can be avoided by using protective equipment such as a thick work suit, gloves, a respirator and safety glasses.

Now let’s talk about how to actually insulate a brick house with mineral wool before covering it with siding.

1. A special hydrobarrier film is fixed over the entire surface of the wall, which is capable of allowing steam to pass through. This must be done, since mineral wool is afraid of excess moisture. You can secure the film in any suitable way, the main thing is that it does not interfere with the construction of the sheathing. The film should cover the surface of the wall completely, with the joining edges overlapping by approximately 8-10 cm.
2. Now the primary sheathing is being arranged, where the direction of the load-bearing structures should coincide with the intended location during installation of the structural elements of the siding. It is better to make the pitch of the slats so that it matches the size of the mineral wool sheets. The distance from the brick wall to the outer surface of the sheathing should be correlated with the thickness of the insulating boards.
3. Mineral wool mats are laid between the slats of the primary sheathing and fixed in several places using plastic umbrella dowels.
4. On top of the insulation and frame, another layer of moisture-protecting film is fixed, which is attached to the wooden structural elements with staples using a manual stapler.
5. A counter-lattice is mounted perpendicular to the primary one, which will be the basis for covering the house with siding, so here the distance between the slats must be calculated so that it is convenient to join the elements of the finishing material.

You can insulate mineral wool mats from moisture differently. To do this, each sheet of insulation is wrapped in film and then pulled to the wall with umbrellas. It is clear that in this case there is no need for continuous layers of waterproofing film.

The advantage of this method of insulating and covering a house with siding over secondary sheathing is that between the sheathing material and the insulation there is guaranteed to remain space for ventilation, which will have a beneficial effect on both the quality of the thermal insulation and the durability of the insulation.

Insulation of a brick house with polystyrene foam for siding

There is no big difference in the technological process when insulating with polystyrene foam, when compared with that when insulating with mineral wool. The only thing is that the second layer of waterproofing film does not need to be installed.

From the point of view of using polystyrene foam itself as insulation, you can focus on this.

Expanded polystyrene, being a good thermal insulator and having a very attractive price, has a big disadvantage, which causes fair concern among many consumers. The fact is that polystyrene foam is a flammable material, so from a fire safety point of view it is far from ideal. Moreover, when burning and even smoldering, polystyrene foam releases extremely toxic substances that can cause irreparable harm to health even in small quantities.

Therefore, when insulating walls with foam plastic, you should try to avoid laying electrical cables in them and installing sockets, switches and electrical panels here.

What insulation materials are suitable for this?

Let's take a closer look at each of the suitable thermal insulation materials. Let's start with the cheapest, that is, glass wool.

Option one. Glass wool

A budget variety of mineral wool, so to speak. The material is quite dangerous, since when working with it, glass dust is released, which is extremely harmful to the respiratory system. When choosing this insulation, be guided by the fact that it will cost several times cheaper than its analogues (more on prices a little later).

Here are the main characteristics of glass wool:

• thermal conductivity index – from 0.029 to 0.041 W/m*K;
• the use of phenol-formaldehyde resin during the joining of fibers, due to which, in fact, toxic substances are released;
• the specific gravity indicator fluctuates between 11 and 25 kilograms per cubic meter;
• high danger to the human body (possible severe irritation of mucous membranes and skin);
• the vapor permeability indicator reaches 0.6 mg/m*h*Pa;
• the material is made from sand, limestone, broken glass, soda and borax;
• glass wool is a non-flammable material;
• high resistance to aggressive chemical environments;
• operating temperature – from minus 60 to plus 250 degrees;
• the fibers of the material do not absorb liquid at all;
• moisture absorption (if glass wool is briefly immersed in water) is approximately 0.8 kilograms per square meter.

From all that has been said above, we can conclude that glass wool would be an ideal insulation material if not for a number of harmful factors; more specifically, he:

• does not burn;
• resistant to high temperatures;
• moisture resistant;
• almost does not allow heat to pass through;
• not afraid of bacteria and fungi.

But health still comes first. That is why in a number of countries glass wool was banned from being used in civil construction. In short, in our case this material is not suitable at all.

Option two. Mineral wool

A common material, including as insulation for siding. It has all the advantages of the previous option, but it does not have its disadvantages. In addition, it is worth noting the long service life of mineral wool, reaching 70 years.

Over the years of operation, this insulation for the walls of a house outside under siding has shown itself only from the best side. You can easily install it yourself, but in the process you must strictly follow all the rules provided for by the installation technology.

In short, if you plan to use mineral wool to insulate walls under siding, you must take care to protect the material from getting wet. This can be achieved with the help of special membranes - moisture, wind and vapor protection (more on this a little later). The heat insulator in this case will be wrapped in a waterproof film. Manufacturers claim that such protection functions like a valve, since it only allows steam to pass out. Steam will not penetrate into the material from inside. What about the “breathing” of the walls, many will ask? The fact is that such “breathing” does not involve the movement of air through the walls; a ventilation system is used to ensure air exchange - even old log houses “breathed” only thanks to the stove draft, and not due to air penetration through the walls.

In short, mineral wool is a good option for thermal insulation of the outside walls of a house under siding. Go ahead.

Option three. Styrofoam

This material is characterized by a fairly low thermal conductivity (no more than 0.043 W/m*K), and therefore is rightfully considered one of the most effective modern thermal insulators. It is used in many areas, including for insulating the outside walls of a house under siding.

And it’s not surprising, because polystyrene foam has many advantages. So, it is quite easy to install, and it does not need waterproofing. It is also easy to work with polystyrene foam - it weighs little, is easy to cut, and does not emit any harmful dust.

Extruded foam plastic has a minimal thermal conductivity, but it:

• very durable;
• resistant to bacteria, fungi;
• not afraid of high humidity.

Its surface after installation will be protected by siding, and therefore the negative impact of the environment will be minimized. Therefore, extruded foam plastic is one of the best options for insulating the outside walls of a house under siding, especially since its modern varieties are safe both from a fire point of view and from an environmental point of view.

External insulation of a house with mineral wool under siding

To ensure a comfortable stay in the house, it is necessary that the temperature and humidity conditions of the premises are observed. This can be done using reliable thermal insulation of structures. Insulating houses from the outside with mineral wool under siding is the most pressing problem, since these two materials are most common in private construction due to their characteristics and cost.

Material selection

Mineral wool in the form of a roll and a block
To insulate the outside walls of a house, simply saying that mineral wool is needed is not enough. This material has several varieties. Two main classifications can be imagined:

• according to the form of product release;
• on raw materials for production.

The following can be said about the first division. You can carry out thermal insulation with mineral wool produced in mats and slabs. The mats are rolled up, the slabs are packaged and transported in separate blocks. To insulate walls from the outside, there is no fundamental difference; you can use both options.

The difference lies in the density of the material. Limitations arise, for example, when insulating a floor that is exposed to high pressure. Insulating the walls of a house with mineral wool is an event that provides high efficiency.

Depending on the raw materials for manufacturing, the following types of material can be given:

• Stone or basalt wool. The most common in construction, produced in slabs. The material is resistant to deformation and fire. A special water-repellent substance is introduced into the composition during production. This composition allows you to increase the ability of the material to resist moisture.
• Glass wool. Release form: mats (rolls). The material consists of 80% broken glass, so when working with it you should use protective gloves and a mask. If you neglect the rules for working with glass wool, particles of the material will get on the skin, eyes and lungs, causing itching, irritation or even swelling. The material has high thermal insulation efficiency. The temperature at which the insulation of the outside walls of a house with such mineral wool under siding does not lose its characteristics is from -60 to +450 degrees Celsius.
• Slag wool. The most budget option of those listed, but despite this it is used quite rarely. The material is made from waste from various industries. When purchasing, it is important to control what kind of production these products are and whether they pose a danger to life and health. Insulation under the siding of a wooden or brick house from the outside must be safe, so when using such mineral wool, you need to make sure of its composition. The only advantage of such insulation over its counterparts can be called cost. In terms of thermal conductivity and hygroscopicity, slag wool is inferior to glass and stone. If moisture gets on the surface of the heat insulator with insufficient waterproofing on the outside, acidic substances are formed, which represent an aggressive environment for other structures of the house.

Advantages of using the material

Insulating a brick or wooden house under siding and attaching a protective layer to the outside of the walls allows you to obtain the following benefits for its future owner:

• Fire resistance. Currently, the fire safety requirements for the facility are quite high. Fire-resistant characteristics are especially important for a wooden house, the wall material of which cannot boast of good fire resistance. Insulation with mineral wool belongs to the category of non-flammable or low-flammable materials, which allows you to install a heat insulator outside under the siding without fear.
• Resistance to chemical and mechanical influences. In addition, the material is not susceptible to damage by various rodents, and is not afraid of mold, mildew and rot. All these qualities allow us to talk about increasing the service life of the thermal insulation of the walls of the house, both when secured under siding and when covered with other materials.
• Preservation of shape. Mineral wool does not shrink or expand due to temperature. When temperature changes, fluctuations in geometric dimensions are insignificant. The natural shrinkage of the material is also small, so its use allows you not to worry about the thermal insulation of the upper floor after several years (mineral wool will not settle inside the wall and will not leave “bare” areas).
• The material is permeable to steam.
  This is especially important when building a wooden house, since many customers choose it precisely for its ability to “breathe”. The use of foam plastic or penoplex negates these advantages, while mineral wool retains the positive qualities of an environmentally friendly structure. Comparison of properties of mineral wool and polystyrene foam

• Good thermal insulation properties. It is important to remember one rule: the lower the thermal conductivity, the better. Low heat conductivity means that the house will have minimal heat losses, low heating costs and normal temperature and humidity conditions in the premises. Insulating the walls of a house under siding with an effective material allows for significant savings during the operation of the building.
• Ease of installation. It is important to remember that you have personal protective equipment, such as gloves, a mask, and special closed clothing.
• Durability. Many of the qualities listed above directly or indirectly affect the service life of the material. Mineral wool can perform its functions for many years.

Installation of insulation

Securing the material under the siding can be done in two ways:

• on wooden sheathing;
• on a metal sheathing.

The first option involves making a frame from wooden blocks and is used more often for house construction made of wood. For the second, a metal profile is used; it is suitable for cladding the outer surface of a brick building.

Installation of insulation on a wooden frame

Installation diagram of insulation on a wooden frame under siding.
The order of work is as follows:

• removal of protruding elements that may interfere with work (gutters, shutters, etc.);
• eliminating damage to the surface of wall structures using tow;
• installation of horizontal and vertical frame elements (the racks are leveled);
• laying the heat insulator slabs so that no gaps form (it is better to initially select the pitch of the sheathing so that the clear distance between the posts is 2-3 cm less than the width of the heat insulator);
• filling cracks with pieces of material;
• installation of a waterproofing layer, for which it is best to use a moisture-proof vapor diffusion membrane (fastening to the frame is done with a stapler, the joints of the material are overlapped, the joints and staples are taped with adhesive tape);
• install the sheathing for finishing, leveling it;
• secure the siding.

Installation on a metal frame

Installation diagram of insulation on a metal frame under siding.
The work order is as follows:

• wall surface preparation: cleaning, priming, plastering;
• fastening hangers under galvanized frame elements;
• installation of thermal insulation using glue and dowels;
• fixing the sheathing to the sheathing on hangers;
• siding installation.

domzastroika.ru

Preparing the surface for installation of insulation

It is allowed not to carry out special preparation of the walls before installing the insulation, since this process is carried out with the installation of lathing, which in any case will hide all visible defects and imperfections of the walls.

The only thing that needs to be done before insulating the outside of the house under siding is to dismantle all objects that may interfere with the work. It is necessary to remove window frames, lamps, drainpipes, plants and branches.

The process of installing mineral wool on walls

To install insulation on the walls of a wooden house, you can use either metal profiles or wooden sheathing. In the first case, the result will be a more expensive design, in the second - a simpler one.

Installation of mineral wool under siding using metal profiles includes several successive steps:

1. A vapor barrier is installed on a wooden wall (a special film that provides additional protection from moisture)
2. PPU (ordinary suspension) is installed on the wall surface and secured using fasteners (you can use dowels or self-tapping screws)
3. Metal profiles are installed in the vertical direction, at intervals of half a meter.
4. Mineral wool is attached to the hangers. The wool must be fixed in such a way that there are no gaps between the plates. The insulation must be fixed with dowels (4-5 pieces per 1 m2 are enough)
5. A special membrane is installed on top of the mineral wool, its joints are glued using butyl tape. For reliability, you can secure the membrane with several dowels
6. The entire structure is located on polyurethane foam. Metal profiles are installed on these hangers and screwed onto thin sheet metal with small self-tapping screws
7. Mineral wool is pressed against the profiles. There is no need to compress it additionally - just use longer hangers

The installation of the profile frame is complete and you can begin cladding the house with siding.

Insulation of the facade with mineral wool under siding using wooden sheathing is carried out as follows:

1. A vapor barrier is fixed to the wall, the joints are glued with special glue or tape, after which the barrier is fixed to the walls using staples
2. Wooden blocks are installed along the width of the mineral wool slabs (on average, the step is 50-70 cm). Insulation is installed between the installed bars
3. Using disc-shaped dowels, the cotton wool is fixed in wooden frames
4. The entire structure is covered with a membrane and fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws, and the joints are taped with butyl acrylic tape
5. To create a ventilated facade, a counter-latten is installed on the film. For secondary lathing, you can use thinner wooden blocks

The insulation of a wooden house under the siding is ready, all that remains is to install the latter.

Insulation of walls under siding is a very common type of thermal insulation. A variety of insulation for siding allows you to make the right choice.

You can use siding not only outside, but also inside. The interior decoration of a house made of timber with siding is partially covered here.

You can also use siding to decorate a garden frame house, the construction of which is described here. At the same time, no matter what type the house will be - for permanent residence or temporary.

Tips for installing insulation

During the installation of mineral wool, you can use small tricks that will optimize the process:

• It is advisable to impregnate all wooden parts with a solution that prevents rotting and damage to the wood. It is recommended to pre-coat the wooden walls of the house with the same solution.
• When installing wood sheathing, the installation should be in the same direction as the siding.
• Using a plumb line, it is recommended to determine the most protruding point of the facade surface and install the lowest beam at this point
• To apply markings, you must use a level and a vertical plumb line.
• You don’t have to waste time on pre-leveling the walls before installing insulation. With proper lathing, all possible irregularities will be hidden in any case.

Adhering to all the above rules, it will not be difficult for homeowners to correctly install mineral insulation under the siding of a wooden house.

Types of insulation

The most popular insulation materials for siding today are:

• mineral wool;
• based on polystyrene foam;
• blow-in insulation (ecowool, penoizol, polyurethane foam).

Mineral wool, according to GOST 52953-2008, is divided into three types - stone, slag and glass wool.

GOST R 52953-2008 - download for free. THERMAL INSULATION MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS

GOST R 52953-2008

To produce the first type, basalt and silicate rocks, as well as their mixtures, are used; slag wool is made from metallurgical waste, glass wool is made from waste from the glass industry. These insulation materials are very thin fibers compressed into thick sheets, which are produced in the form of rolls and mats of various sizes and densities. Additionally, they can have a foil coating. As a rule, to insulate a house under siding, only stone and glass wool are used, since slag insulation is less water resistant.

Mineral wool insulation with foil layer

An example of using mineral wool for insulation under siding

Expanded polystyrene insulation, polystyrene foam and EPS, are lightweight, dense sheets formed from a large number of air-filled closed cells. Thanks to this structure, these insulation materials practically do not absorb water. They are produced only in the form of slabs, differing in density, size, and degree of flammability.

Insulation based on polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam is perfect for the Russian climate

Blown-in materials are those that are applied to the base using a special installation under high pressure. After drying, they form a durable, seamless coating with excellent thermal insulation properties.

Blown-in insulation - ecowool

Seamless home insulation

Application area

It is not enough to know what materials are used for insulation and cladding of the facade; it is important to combine them correctly. First of all, when choosing, you should take into account the wall material and type of house, its load-bearing capacity

Houses on pile and column foundations are usually built on unstable soils, so heavy fiber cement and sometimes metal siding are unlikely to be used for cladding. The most acceptable option is vinyl or metal (not all houses) panels.

To cover a brick house on stable ground with sufficient load-bearing capacity, you can use all types of finishing; for a cinder block house, it is better to abandon fiber cement siding and increase the thickness of the insulation.

To decorate a country house that provides only seasonal living, there is no point in spending money on more expensive metal siding; vinyl siding will be quite sufficient.

For houses in the construction of which wood is used, that is, timber, panel, frame, it is undesirable to use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam insulation. The wall under such heat insulators begins to get wet and rot, which is due to their low vapor permeability. The optimal choice for a log house or a timber house is mineral wool, always with a waterproofing system.

Materials used

When externally insulating a brick house, materials such as mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, warm plaster and many others can be used. Each of them has its own characteristics that need to be taken into account when choosing.

Styrofoam

This material has a low thermal conductivity coefficient. Another advantage of the material is its high compressive strength, low level of moisture absorption and ease of processing.

Foam plastic for insulating a brick wall

The heat insulator also has disadvantages - a low level of vapor permeability and exposure to the influence of the sun and fire. This material can be used to insulate aerated concrete facades.

Mineral wool

The material is also accompanied by a low thermal conductivity coefficient. For its production, various materials are used, including dolomite, basalt and marl. Only 5% of its composition is fiber, and the remaining 95% is air. Due to the presence of air voids, high thermal insulation qualities are achieved.

Mineral wool for insulating a brick wall

Mineral wool has become in wide demand for the reason that it is characterized by easy production technology and variability of source materials. The advantages of mineral wool include resistance to fire, frost, excellent sound insulation and the ability to retain chemical and physical properties for a long time. The disadvantages of the material include exposure to moisture, as a result of which mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties. This material can also be used to insulate the facade of a house using modern materials.

Warm plaster

In terms of thermal conductivity, this material is slightly inferior to foam plastic and mineral wool. Warm plaster is a dry mixture that is sold in bags. It has high density. And the advantages of the heat insulator remain non-flammability, vapor permeability, and low vapor permeability.

Warm plaster

At the same time, warm plaster is characterized by a large weight, which results in an additional load on the foundation. But this information will help you understand how to install a wet facade.

Expanded polystyrene

The material is light weight, highly moisture resistant and easy to install. In addition, such a heat insulator is suitable for those who care about their health, because polystyrene foam is completely safe. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the inability to pass steam, fragility, flammability and toxicity when burning. The material can also be used for insulation and siding of a house.

Expanded polystyrene

Main types of mineral wool

Stone wool is highly resistant to fire and does not deform for a long time.
Depending on the components of mineral wool, it can be divided into 3 main groups:

1. The stone variety includes rocks with analogues of gabbro-basalt groups, due to which the material has low water absorption rates and, conversely, high resistance to fire. Consequently, stone wool is able to withstand the highest temperatures without deforming for a long time. Available in rolls.
2. The slag type of mineral wool is produced using waste after melting non-ferrous or ferrous metals. It has good quality indicators, but they are slightly weaker than the previous type.
3. In the production of glass wool, glass, limestone and other materials are used, and therefore this type can withstand high temperatures. Perhaps the only drawback is the fragility of the material, which allows small particles to get directly onto the skin.

Characteristics of mineral wool as insulation

According to many experts, mineral wool is a reliable and time-tested thermal insulation material. It consists of randomly intertwined fibers that create a dense network. Therefore, mineral wool is both dense and elastic.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of slabs and rolls.

Mineral wool is divided into two main classes:

1. for indoor use,
2. for outdoor work.

You should not use material intended for interior work to insulate walls on the facade side, as it has different properties: higher structural density, lower hydrophobicity and lower content of harmful substances.

Popular and inexpensive option

One of the most common ways to insulate an old log or new log house is thermal insulation with mineral wool and subsequent decorative and protective finishing with plastic or metal panels called siding. In Russia, many buildings are finished in this way, not only residential buildings, but also shops, garages, industrial or commercial buildings.

Material advantages

The main advantage of using mineral wool for exterior finishing is its price-quality ratio, as well as efficiency and service life ratios. These parameters allow you to rationally use money to achieve optimal results. In addition, the plates are easily used on almost any wooden surface with various deviations from a given vertical. The technology of such insulation has its advantages, allowing us to talk about its uniqueness and individuality:

• Easy installation;
• environmental friendliness;
• fire resistance (the material is not subject to combustion, in addition, it increases fire safety outside the house);
• the ability to perform work regardless of climatic conditions (with the exception of heavy precipitation, when working with mineral wool the material may get wet);
• both materials used (siding and mineral wool) have good vapor-permeable characteristics that do not interfere with the environmental friendliness of wooden walls. The fact is that the panel has special holes designed for ventilation of the structure.

useful in work

When choosing insulation, you should pay special attention to its density. This coefficient, related to thermal insulation intended for outdoor work, should be at least 20-30 kg/m3 for foam plastic and 50-70 kg/m3 for mineral wool

General description of thermal insulation

Construction stores offer a choice of three types of mineral wool, which is used for external insulation of wooden houses:

• In the form of slabs measuring 100x50 cm;
• Rectangular slabs measuring 60x120 cm;
• Wound in rolls (not recommended for use on facades, used for insulation of roofs and floors).

Any of these types can be used for work on the street side of the facade. Therefore, you will have to choose which mineral insulation is best suited for finishing your house. The only thing worth remembering is the requirements for material density. Rolled mineral wool is somewhat cheaper. This is due to the fact that its density is less than that made in the form of rectangular slabs. Therefore, it is better to use a stiffer material.

Characteristics of mineral wool insulation

Stone wool

Technical characteristics of basalt wool

Material properties

Of all the varieties of stone wool, basalt insulation is considered the most popular. It is distinguished by the lowest content of binding components, which includes formaldehyde resins and phenol, which are hazardous to health, and therefore is one of the most environmentally friendly materials. The fibers that make up the insulation are not scratchy and quite smooth, so they do not cling to clothing, do not cause irritation on the skin, and you can perform work without protective gloves.

Basalt insulation

Technical characteristics of basalt wool

Manufacturers produce stone wool in the form of mats, soft, semi-rigid and hard slabs, and in rolls. For installation under siding, rigid and semi-rigid slabs are most convenient, but roll insulation is more suitable for horizontal and inclined surfaces.

Advantages of stone wool:

• the material is easy to cut, light in weight, and does not create difficulties during installation;
• does not burn and does not emit harmful substances;
• microorganisms, including fungi, do not develop in it;
• reduces noise level by up to 20%;
• service life is 40-50 years without loss of basic characteristics.

Minuses:

• the production of the material requires high costs; accordingly, prices for stone wool are quite high;
• when cutting and shaking the material, thin fibers break and form very fine dust, which easily penetrates the respiratory tract. As a result, a respirator should always be used during thermal insulation work.

There are many manufacturers who, to reduce the cost of the manufacturing process, use various industrial wastes instead of pure rocks, but at the same time pass off their products as high-quality basalt insulation. It is very difficult to visually recognize a fake, especially for an inexperienced person, so buy stone wool from well-known, time-tested brands. Nowadays the following manufacturers enjoy a high reputation in the market of thermal insulation materials:

• Rockwool;
• Knauf;
• Ursa;
• Isover;
• TechnoNIKOL.

  

  Insulation manufactured by Technikol

  

  Mineral wool ISOVER

Glass wool

The popularity of glass wool has dropped noticeably with the advent of basalt and slag insulation on the market, but it is still used in various fields. In appearance, it is not very different from stone wool, but it is more fragile, so many manufacturers additionally reinforce the material by stitching with steel threads. The peculiarity of glass wool is that the glass fibers, at the slightest impact, are destroyed and form fine dust, which easily eats into the skin, penetrates the respiratory tract, eyes and causes severe irritation. For this reason, you can work with glass wool only in protective clothing, a respirator and goggles.

Glass wool

Specifications

Advantages of glass wool:

• Due to its low thermal conductivity, glass wool perfectly retains heat in the house. A layer of material 50 mm thick is similar in thermal insulation properties to brickwork one meter thick;
• no toxic additives are used in the production of glass wool, so it does not emit harmful substances even when exposed to high temperatures;
• glass wool boards are lightweight and can be compressed in packaging 6 times their original volume with subsequent straightening, which simplifies the transportation of the insulation;
• the material is easy to cut and install on walls;
• Microorganisms do not develop in glass wool and insects and rodents do not breed;
• Compared to other fiber insulation materials, glass wool is much cheaper.

Minuses:

• the high fragility of the fibers requires enhanced protection and caution in work; increased loads on the material should be avoided;
• the average service life of glass wool is 10 years, then it shrinks severely and does not provide even minimal thermal insulation of the walls;
• glass wool absorbs moisture vapor and water, which leads to a complete loss of thermal insulation characteristics.

Glass wool in rolls

Advice. For siding, slabs covered with fiberglass with a density of about 30 kg/m3 are best suited. To avoid getting low-quality insulation, pay attention only to certified glass wool from leading manufacturers, for example, Knauf, Isover, Ursa, and the domestic brand “Neman”.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

The need to use insulation

When choosing siding to decorate the facade of a house, you need to take care of insulating the walls outside. Even if the house is not planned for permanent residence, additional insulation will allow you to significantly save on heating costs. Siding, when installed correctly, not only provides protection for the walls of a building from weather conditions; the multi-layer arrangement of materials will retain heat inside the structure and in the room. The second advantage of using insulation on the outside is that you can attach several layers of slabs and their thickness will not matter, since the interior space will remain unchanged - the usable area of ​​the rooms will be preserved. The maximum thickness of wall insulation on the outside is selected depending on the climatic region, the material of the building walls and the characteristics of its operation .

Choosing the type of insulation

The technology for fastening siding panels is combined with many types of modern insulation. For exterior work on wooden or brick walls, it is optimal to use mineral wool (mineral wool) with a density of 80 kg/m3 in slabs. Compared to rolled materials, the slabs have sufficient rigidity and hold their shape better - cold bridges do not form at the joints. In addition, insulation with mineral wool from the outside is effective due to the following characteristics:

provides good sound insulation and thermal insulation of the house, environmentally friendly (meets sanitary and hygienic requirements) and durable material, resistance to various chemical and natural pests (fungus, mold), ease of installation and transportation, non-flammability of the material (especially important for residential buildings).

It is important to know

When working with mineral wool, you must use eye and respiratory protection (goggles and a respirator/mask) to protect yourself from small particles, lint and dust.

Main characteristics of materials for thermal insulation

A very important task when insulating a brick house is choosing a reliable and durable material for treating the outer part of the walls. It must have certain characteristics that must withstand precipitation, high humidity, wind and frost, as well as heat.

Therefore, it is important to consider the following characteristics when choosing:

1. Water absorption. It is better to give preference to materials with a low water absorption coefficient.
2. Thermal conductivity. This is the main criterion when choosing insulation. The amount of heated air in the house that is lost in one hour per square meter of material with a thickness of one meter depends on it. It is this indicator that you should rely on when choosing the thickness of the insulation layer. The most suitable materials for this would be polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
3. Flammability. This characteristic determines the danger of the material in case of fire. Thus, products can be divided into 4 classes according to this characteristic, and it is better to give preference to G1, which can go out without an open flame. For example, polystyrene foam boards have a high ignition rate, and if they are used for cladding a house, you should choose the C marking, which means self-extinguishing.
4. Pay attention to the density, which determines the amount of additional weight on the structure. The lower the indicator, the lighter the material will be.
5. Sound insulation level. Allows you to reduce noise penetrating into the building. Almost all materials for thermal insulation have this characteristic.
6. Environmental friendliness. For exterior wall decoration, this criterion is not particularly important, since it determines the level of health safety of the material. However, it is still better to use natural rather than synthetic materials.
7. Difficult to install. In the case of finishing it yourself, without the help of specialists, it is better to give preference to a simple and understandable technology for laying heat-insulating material.

Thus, the choice of material is a decisive factor, depending on which the final result will depend, as well as the service life.

Stage five. Windproof layer

After installing the thermal insulation, it is highly desirable, and when using cotton insulation, it is simply necessary to cover our structure with a vapor-and-wind barrier layer. What is it for? As the name suggests, this protection should prevent moisture and steam from getting between the siding, insulation and the wall. If the mineral wool is wet or damp, consider that you have practically no thermal insulation. It also protects the building from being blown out by strong winds. Although there are skeptics who consider this protective layer optional, citing the fact that almost all moisture-proof materials are flammable

But, in my opinion, you should not pay attention to this, since this protection brings much more benefits

The materials used are polyethylene film, good old roofing felt or modern membrane materials such as isospan or technohaut. I won’t go into too much detail here because you can watch it all in the video. Let me just say that the most budget-friendly film is made of polyethylene, and, accordingly, membrane materials are much more expensive. Windproof material is laid along the wall in a vertical direction, with an overlap of about 10-15 cm. In some developed countries, the joints are glued, but in our country it is customary to use self-adhesive tape for sealing.

If the protective film and insulation were laid according to all the canons of construction art, then you will not be afraid of either Siberian frosts or the southern heat.

What is mineral wool

This material has a fibrous structure. This determines its high thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool insulation is characterized by good physical and mechanical characteristics. Mineral wool differs from other heat insulators in its immunity to deforming loads . Thanks to this property, this material is very often used in multilayer thermal insulation systems.

1. Mineral wool is considered an environmentally friendly material . Therefore, it can even be used in residential buildings.
2. This type of insulation has increased fire resistance and can withstand high temperatures well. The material is destroyed at temperatures above 1000 degrees.
3. Insulating walls with stone wool from the outside will help achieve good sound insulation characteristics. This insulation has a long service life - 50 - 70 years .
4. Mineral wool is resistant to moisture, aggressive chemical environments and large temperature fluctuations.

Mineral wool consists of rocks in a molten state and various binding components (minerals of clay origin and phenol-based resin). And on top of the material, a small layer of kraft paper is applied.

Comparison of mineral wool with other materials

Some features of installing insulation on the walls of a wooden house

For a wooden house, an insulation system with a ventilated air gap is optimal.

In order to insulate the facade, a sheathing made of wooden blocks or galvanized profiles in the form of a frame is mounted on the walls. Their installation is described above. The thickness of the sheathing is selected based on the thickness of the insulation used. All wooden surfaces are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics. The walls must be covered with a waterproofing film or coated with waterproofing mastic.

Installing horizontal siding involves installing sheathing in a vertical direction, and installing vertical siding in a horizontal direction. The sheathing is installed in all corners of the house, window and door openings. Using a level, you need to adjust the flatness of the sheathing. Subsequent installation of siding depends entirely on this stage.

The structure is secured with screws and plastic dowels. For wooden houses, it is better to use galvanized nails 10 cm long. The thickness of the wool for insulating facades is selected based on the thermal characteristics, geographic region, location of the house and the material of its walls. With the correct calculation of all parameters, despite unfavorable climatic conditions, the house will always be warm and cozy.

After this, you can begin installing the siding. When installing it, there are many subtleties, depending on the type of this material. Quite a lot of time when decorating walls with siding is required for preparatory work on impregnating the walls with fire retardant compounds, leveling the walls and sheathing, and installing insulation.

Materials for insulating external walls under siding

Types of insulation:

1. Mineral wool insulation. They are made from metallurgical waste, silicates and other rocks. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.042 W/m*K. Mineral wool has good fire-fighting properties. The main disadvantage is the high water absorption coefficient (about 70%).
2. EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam). Low thermal conductivity (0.03 W/m*K); water absorption does not exceed 2%; ease of installation. These advantages and the high density of the material (up to 40 kg/cub.m) provide it with high thermal insulation properties. A significant drawback is the high degree of flammability.
3. Expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating foundations and rooms with high humidity.
4. Styrofoam. It has a low level of thermal conductivity (0.035 W/m*K) and water absorption. The material contains many gas bubbles. The buyer can choose slabs of different thicknesses and densities. The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is that rodents love it.
5. Polyurethane foam. It is obtained by mixing two substances - a polyol and an isocyanate. Low thermal conductivity, good noise insulation, high density, low degree of water absorption. It does not lend itself to mold, rot, and does not harbor rodents or insects. Its disadvantages: it is destroyed under the influence of UV; When attaching siding , the integrity of the layer is compromised, and this reduces the effectiveness of the material.

The first two types of insulation have better sound-insulating properties than polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam, but at the slightest wetness they lose their thermal insulation properties . Therefore, it is better to install mineral wool with special membranes. Foam and EPS may require additional sound insulation during installation.

When choosing between rolled and slab materials, the following should be taken into account: rolled mineral wool serves more effectively on horizontal surfaces, does not fit well at joints, and to prevent the dew point from being in the room, the material must be laid in two layers. Slab insulation does not have such disadvantages, so it is more often used for wall insulation.

The environmental friendliness of the material plays an important role. Here the winners are basalt insulation, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.

Stage six. We install siding panels

We will look at the installation of panels using vinyl siding as an example. But we dare to assure you that the installation of the same metal panels is fundamentally no different. First of all, we make sure that all preparatory work is completed and there are no shortcomings or flaws

By the way, this is a very important note, since there are no ideal people and no ideal workers. Man is created in such a way that he is bound to leave something unfinished or make a mistake.

This, of course, is all lyrics and therefore let’s move on directly to the process itself.

Since buildings rarely have an even geometric shape, such as a square or rectangle, we will definitely have a need for additional elements that serve to complete the façade work. The main elements of which are drainage systems that prevent water from getting inside. Initial and final strips, the functionality of which can be understood from the name. These also include external and internal corners, used for connections at external and internal corners, respectively. To join the side connections and fix them, we need J-profiles. For direct connections, a connecting strip is used.

You need to start laying from a predetermined starting point, from where the installation of the first row of panels and fastening of various elements - window strips, corners and starting strips - will begin. The recommendations below will help you ensure that the facade will last a long time and keep the material intact.

• A certain distance of approximately 30 cm should be maintained between fasteners.
• The fastening material (nails, screws) should not be pressed against the siding until it stops, otherwise it may become deformed and fasten them exclusively in the center of the hole.
• Attach hardware strictly at right angles.

The vast majority of sheets are mounted horizontally, for this we first need to install the starting strip. We fasten it so as to cover the upper edge of the foundation. Its installation should be given special importance, since the beauty and neatness of the appearance of the house depends on it. It is necessary to set the strip strictly according to the level, otherwise there is a high chance of wasting time starting all over again. There are no special requirements for the aesthetics of the strip itself; it can be of any color and even assembled from pieces so that it will still be covered with a vinyl panel.

To strengthen the strip as evenly as possible, we determine the location of the siding and screw in the screws. We pull the rope through the screws and use an accurate level to check whether the line is exactly horizontal. Using a marker or chalk, we draw a line along the rope, and using this line, we finally install the strip.

• If there is a need to splice several strips, be sure to leave a gap of about 6 mm between them.
• Under no circumstances should you attach it to the very corner of the building; a special profile is designed for finishing corners.
• You should not put a strip under doors and windows in advance, because you can easily make a mistake with the distance.

The next step is to install the internal and external corner strips. There are some differences in fastening siding from different manufacturers, which are outlined in the included instructions, but they are generally the same. The corner panels are attached in the same way as the starting strip, with the exact location of the fasteners - the middle of the hole. Further installation is not particularly difficult. The only place where you will have to tinker is with window and door openings.

That's all, good luck in all your endeavors and have a warm winter!

External brick wall insulation technology

Having chosen the material that is optimal in terms of cost and parameters, we begin to select the fastening technology:

• With dowels, when the slab is fixed at five points, and the umbrella-hat covers the joints of the slabs. At the same time, the process is quite labor-intensive, but reliable.
• With the help of an adhesive composition, the slabs are easily attached to the walls of a brick house, if a clear horizontal line is maintained and the surface is level.
• Using cement-based plaster mixtures. This fixation method is not recommended for use on brick walls, as the adhesion may not be effective enough. To increase adhesion, additional surface treatment is required, which increases labor costs and, accordingly, the cost and duration of work.

Any of the listed methods is used in conjunction with a frame, which is necessary for further installation of siding. Which method of fastening will be better in each specific case is up to specialists who will take into account both the parameters of existing external structures and the characteristics of the load with the chosen method of fastening the insulation.

Stages of insulation

Often, when insulating a house on their own, owners skip such an important preparatory stage, at which specialists usually calculate the operating characteristics of the house and climatic conditions, the required thickness of the insulating material and the load on the load-bearing structures. This is necessary to minimize costs and ensure maximum comfort. Therefore, it is better to pay more attention to the calculations than to waste time and money later. Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the outside occurs according to the following scheme:

1. First of all, the sheathing is installed. Quite often, wooden slats are used for this, but for brick walls, metal profiles and brackets/hangers are considered optimal, although they are more expensive. Their cost is justified by their long service life without the additional processing that wooden structures require. They are attached exclusively to a dry surface that has been repaired in advance if necessary.
2. Foam boards are placed in the cells of the sheathing and attached directly to the wall using the chosen method. You can also use another technology, in which the entire surface is first covered with polystyrene foam, and the sheathing is mounted on top of the insulation, making holes for attaching profiles directly through the thermal insulation layer, but this method is not the most optimal option, since the amount of insulation waste increases.
3. Occasionally, two layers of insulation are used, which is justified in harsh climatic conditions.
4. A counter-lattice is mounted outside to install siding: for horizontal installation, the slats or profiles are laid vertically, for vertical installation of cladding - horizontally.
5. Next, the siding is installed. They start with corner, window, door and starting elements.

Obviously, the process of insulating a brick house from the outside is quite simple, of course, if you have the skills, tools and understanding of the features of the process during subsequent finishing with siding.

Installation of sheathing and siding

The question of how to install the sheathing should be given special attention, since the strength of the entire structure depends on this. It is preferable to install the slats in this order: if the siding is installed horizontally, then the slats are mounted vertically

In cases where it is necessary to install siding vertically, the sheathing is laid horizontally. Please note that the pitch between the slats is determined by the distance between the holes for fastening the siding. The slats must also be installed in corners, near openings, and so on.

Siding insulation scheme

It should be noted that the plane of the sheathing must be checked at all times with a building level, because the evenness of the siding installation depends on this. Wooden slats are mounted into walls using dowels or galvanized nails (weave). Please note that the sheathing is also treated with a primer if it is made of wood.

Siding is installed directly onto the sheathing elements using screws or nails. In this case, it is necessary to make a ventilation opening of several centimeters between the insulation and the facing material. Thanks to this, the walls will breathe. Siding is laid directly from bottom to top.

Why is stone wool used in ventilated facades?

During our daily life, a large amount of vapor is generated, and even the presence of effective ventilation does not eliminate the fact that a certain proportion of vapor will seep through the walls. But what will happen to it next depends entirely on compliance with the insulation technology.

Regardless of the chosen system, there is a basic principle - increasing the vapor permeability of the materials used from the inside out.

When this condition is met, steam passes unhindered through the walls, then through the insulation and falls on its surface in the form of condensate. In a ventilated facade system, this condensate is simply evaporated from the thermal insulation layer due to the presence of a gap between the insulation and the facing screen. The air freely enters under the cladding from below, exits at the top, and the insulation always remains dry.

However, precisely because of the presence of a ventilation gap, it is permissible to use only non-combustible insulation in the ventilation facade system, since in the event of a fire, air circulation will provide excellent traction. If the walls are insulated with even slightly flammable or moderately flammable material, thanks to the blower the house will burst into flames like a match. And the high speed of flame spread will significantly reduce the chances not only of saving valuables, but also of saving household members. Stone wool is not only non-flammable, but also a barrier material that can contain fire. Due to this, it is recommended as insulation in ventilated facade systems, and not other insulation.

thebooblik FORUMHOUSE member

I would like to ask about the insulation of silicate brick walls in purchased housing. The thickness of the walls of the first floor is 1.5 bricks (45 cm), the brick is hollow. The attic is generally made of half a brick, but it is not yet inhabitable. On one side of the house, the wall is covered with plastic siding, under which pieces of PPS were pushed. In this part of the house the walls are warm in winter. In the other part this is not the case, there is bare brick, and in winter the wall was cold, but you want warmth. I plan to clad the façade with metal siding. How to insulate walls? EPPS? And what thickness should I choose for the material? Does it need a vapor barrier? I’ve been reading the forum for over a year, but I haven’t bothered to study about insulation. Please advise, I want to insulate the house during the season.

Sleng member FORUMHOUSE

Under the siding - basalt wool as insulation. Lathing, wool, hydro-windproof membrane, counter-lattice, siding.

Selection of insulation materials

It is not easy to understand all types of insulation materials. A large range of products and varying prices will take inexperienced consumers by surprise. Insulation materials can be rolled or tile, expensive or cheap. The difference will be the density and thickness of each type. The choice lies in correctly identifying the right product. You need to be guided by the requirements for the quality of the material

You need to pay attention to:

• Thermal conductivity;
• Vapor barrier;
• Fire safety.

The thermal conductivity indicator should be minimal, otherwise the heat will easily escape and in winter the room will cool down in a few hours

In summer, it is important that the building does not heat up quickly, keeping it cool inside. Only properly selected, high-quality thermal insulation will allow you to maintain the optimal temperature in the room, regardless of the time of year.

Vapor barrier is also an important requirement for insulation materials. If the moisture content is high, fungus may appear under the siding in the room.

The insulation must be able to “breathe”, reliably protecting the structure from the cold, but without accumulating moisture. If water accumulates under the sheathing, the material - wood - begins to rot. In this case, the house will quickly collapse.

It is not recommended to insulate a building with flammable materials. Despite the fact that the insulation is located outside the building and has minimal contact with electrical wiring, the risk of fire still exists.

In summer, siding can become very hot from the sun's rays. Toxic elements contained in some insulation materials cause negative reactions in the body.

What is better for the facade

The choice of insulation depends not only on its characteristics, but also on the type of material used to build the house. In order to increase the quality of insulation and extend the service life of the cladding, it is necessary to choose the right insulation for the type of building.

Insulating the outside of a brick house with polystyrene foam under the siding is an effective and economical method of insulation. A brick house initially has low heat loss, and installing expanded polystyrene or foam plastic will reduce heat loss to a minimum. For greater efficiency, a brick house is insulated from the outside under mineral or glass wool siding. This method is more durable and effective, but will cost a little more than insulation with polystyrene foam. Since brick houses retain heat well, the choice of insulation depends mainly on the budget and taste preferences of the owner.

Advice! As an energy-saving layer for walls made of aerated concrete or cinder block, it is suitable to use insulation on a natural basis: mineral or glass wool.

This material will strengthen the thermal insulation layer and protect the walls from sifting or fungi.
Using mineral or glass wool will improve not only thermal protection, but also sound insulation. Insulating a panel, frame or panel house from the outside under siding is most often a forced measure rather than an initiative of the owners . Modern houses do not always meet the required energy saving parameters; a lot of heat is lost through joints and seams. When the apartment is located on the north side, constant drafts and the dilapidation of the capital structure significantly worsen the thermal insulation qualities, so it is recommended to choose only mineral wool for insulation. It provides better thermal insulation and has a long service life.

The process of fixing the insulation

All work is divided into several stages:

Preparing for work

For high-quality installation and minimal time spent on it, it is necessary to prepare working tools and accessories:

• tape measure, level, plumb line,
• drill, screwdriver, hammer drill (for brick walls),
• screwdrivers, hammer, stapler,
• hacksaw, metal scissors,
• protective equipment (glasses, gloves),
• fasteners, staples for staplers,
• ladder or stepladder (depending on the height of the house).

Frame installation

The initial stage of the insulation process is to clean the facades from various protruding parts in order to install frame profiles. The drainage system, eaves overhangs, window treatments and trims around the doors are dismantled. It is advisable to treat the surfaces of prepared wooden walls with special antifungal and fire retardant compounds; for brick walls, it is enough to eliminate cracks and small defects.

After priming the surfaces, a vapor barrier film is secured to the facades using a stapler or tape. It will protect the insulation from condensation and evaporation, and keep it dry, which will help maintain the high thermal conductivity properties of the material.

Then vertical lathing is performed to tightly place the insulation in increments of 50 - 60 cm (depending on the size of the slabs). The bars or profiles are attached using adjustable brackets. When using wooden blocks, it is also recommended to treat them with a protective compound. For rigidity and strength of the frame, it is advisable to fix several horizontal axes (3-4 per wall). The geometry of the frame lines is periodically checked with a level.

useful in work

The use of a metal frame structure when insulating a house with mineral wool is preferable, since it is not subject to rotting (unlike wood) and is generally more durable in use.

Instructions

The process of insulating a brick house will depend on what material is used for this.

Foam insulation

The first step is to carefully evaluate the condition of the brick wall. If there are defects there, they need to be corrected. Then remove various contaminants from the surface. Dry the wall and prime it with a primer. This will improve the adhesion of the material to the wood. Install a galvanized corner or profile along the perimeter of the wall. This will be a kind of level for laying insulation, a drain for moisture and a barrier for the penetration of mice. Then spread the glue onto the slab and press it tightly against the wall. Tap lightly with a rubber mallet.

Secure each slab with umbrellas. Wait 1 day until the glue dries thoroughly. Then you can attach the plastic mesh. A thin layer of cement mixture is laid on top of it, which creates reliable protection from the sun and precipitation. By clicking on the link, you can learn more about how the technology of facade insulation with foam plastic occurs.

Video of insulating a brick wall with polystyrene foam:

Insulation with mineral wool

First you need to build a frame. For these purposes, wooden blocks are used. Before installation, they must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. This is necessary in order to create protection against the influence of mold and rodents.

The bars are fastened at a distance that is less than the width of the heat insulator. The thickness of the bars can be different and depends on the size of the slab. Fastening is carried out using dowels.

It is necessary to lay mineral wool between the boards. The material in question has the ability to absorb water. To neutralize this problem, it is necessary to lay a protective film over the mineral wool. Its fastening is carried out using a stapler. Mount another layer of slats on top of the boards, onto which the siding will be fastened. This material can also be used to insulate plastic windows, and all the work can be done with your own hands.

Video of insulating a brick wall with mineral wool:

Insulation with plaster

This material is today considered one of the simplest for insulating a brick house. The main advantage is that you only need one layer of plaster. Thus, it is possible to simplify the entire insulation process. Plaster also acts as a heat-insulating layer and a decorative element, with which you can give the house an attractive appearance.

The process of applying warm plaster is carried out using standard technologies. If necessary, beacons can be installed. To prepare the solution, you must use the instructions included on the product packaging.

After applying a layer of plaster, it is necessary to give it a special texture. For these purposes you will need to use a structural roller. They have to walk on a surface that has not yet hardened, which is highly plastic. The result is a pattern. This material can also be used to insulate a log house from the outside.

Video showing the use of plaster to insulate a brick wall: