Attic ceiling - how to properly arrange the attic of a private house

Any building material, including roofing, is not eternal and has a certain service life, after which the owner of the building is faced with the need for a new roof.

Roofing material has a fairly long service life, and it is likely that a significant number of decades have passed since the installation of the previous roof, during which the building materials market has become significantly richer.

In this article we will look at how to cover the roof of a private house with your own hands and how much it will cost.

Preparing to re-roof

The entire process of replacing the roof of a house with your own hands is divided into several stages:

Remove the old covering. No special skills are needed here, only caution is required: all work is carried out at heights, materials such as slate or sheet iron can injure those below.

Dismantling of the roof is always carried out from top to bottom, that is, in the reverse order of laying the covering.

After removing the final coating, you should inspect the integrity of the rafter system, hydro- and vapor barrier material, and insulation.

If the roof is leaky and holes have appeared, it is likely that the materials have become wet and require replacement or renovation. T

The same goes for the sheathing and rafters - all rotten or insect-damaged elements should be removed: you should not overlap the roofs with rafters or sheathing with flaws, such work will soon require another repair.

The waterproofing and insulation are inspected, laid back, everything is taped at the joints.

Now you can begin to cover the roof.

Depending on the chosen material, the installation technology differs, but the preliminary work is always similar.

The quality of any material decreases over time and roofing is no exception.

And it doesn’t matter at all whether the roof needs minor repairs or a complete renovation, you will have to deal with roof overlapping.

If you decide to do it yourself, information on how to cover the roof will be useful.

To begin with, you need to resolve the issue of material, time and the availability of assistants, decide on the technology for replacing the roofing and think through the main stages of the work.

What tools are needed to re-roof?

Re-roofing is not an everyday activity for every owner, so you may not be able to get by with your usual tools. You may need:

• regular and shaped hammers with a spherical tip, possibly a special roofing hammer with a punch;
• hacksaw;
• measuring instruments: center punch, laser compass, universal protractor, level, micrometer;
• drill;
• roofing knife for cutting vapor barrier, waterproofing, insulation, ondulin or flexible tiles.

If you have chosen metal tiles or corrugated sheets for your roof, then it is better to prepare:

• pliers with wide jaws, oval jaws, curved pliers for bending metal sheets;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• punch;
• files of various types for processing cuts;
• bench vice;
• anvil.

Hold each of the tools with your own hands, make sure that you can work with them.

Choosing a roofing covering

First of all, you need to decide: how to cover the roof of a private house? At the moment, there are many different roofing coverings with different characteristics.

Let's consider the main ones:

Metal tiles made of galvanized steel with a protective polymer coating are produced in sheet form with imitation of rows of ceramic tiles. This is convenient for a roof of a simple shape (for example, a gable roof), but is not suitable for structures of complex shapes due to the large amount of waste.

When it rains, metal tiles make quite a lot of noise and therefore require additional noise and heat insulation. You can quickly and easily cover the roof of your house with metal tiles with your own hands. The material belongs to the middle price category. Corrugated sheeting, also produced in the form of sheets, has similar characteristics, but at a more affordable price.

This roofing covering is not highly decorative, but is easy to install and does not require special care.

Economical roofing options include ondulin, which is sheets of pressed cardboard impregnated with bitumen. The top layer of this material is covered with mineral chips, which protects it well from moisture.

Ondulin is easy to install with your own hands, even on complex structures, as it is easily and quickly cut.

The disadvantages of the coating include rapid fading in the sun and high susceptibility to fire.

The most expensive roofing materials include soft tiles, which are based on fiberglass with bitumen applied on one side and mineral chips on the other.

The coating perfectly protects from moisture, does not make noise when it rains, and does not fade in the sun. Flexible tiles are quickly and easily installed even on roofs of complex structures and are easy to cut.

The disadvantages include the rather long installation process, which requires compliance with a number of conditions.

An expensive pleasure for the roof will be ceramic tiles made by firing natural clay and coating with glaze.

This material has high performance characteristics: long service life, suppression of external noise, preservation of decorative appearance.

However, the material is heavy and you need to critically evaluate the condition of the house’s foundation and the rafter system itself to see whether they can withstand such a load.

Remember that the right roofing material is half the success in re-roofing.

Determining the required amount of roofing material depends on the area of ​​the roof, which is easy to calculate yourself.

It is important to add 10-15% to the resulting number of square meters due to overlapping roofing and up to 25% if the roof has a complex shape and will require frequent cutting of the material.

Advantages of corrugated sheets

The popularity of this material for covering the roof of an old house is understandable. It has a number of advantages, such as:

• Completely waterproof;
• Does not fade in the sun;
• Practical to use - easy to clean from dirt;
• Resistant to mechanical effects of precipitation in the form of hail;
• It is light in weight;
• Relatively inexpensive;
• Easy to install;
• It is used not only to cover the roof of an old house, but also to fencing a plot of land and cladding walls.

The professional sheet is divided into three categories:

Each variety has its own characteristics (both in weight and rigidity) and its purpose - for walls or to cover the roof of an old house:

For small areas where it is necessary to cover the roof of an old house, corrugated wall sheeting is quite suitable. In the case of large areas or with sparse sheathing, only roofing is used - with a profile height of 20 mm (the same approach applies to peaked roofs on the roof, since they have to experience high wind loads).

Let's look at replacing the old covering of a house using the example of a material such as slate.

Slate

This is one of the most popular coverings for the roof of a house. Good performance qualities, large-format elements and an affordable price have recommended slate as an ideal option for budget construction. But there are a few points:

Advice! If, in the process of covering a roof with slate, you need to cut a piece, the easiest way is to use a grinder with a trimming disc

Corrugated sheet

A widely demanded material for the roof of a house. Being lightweight, corrugated sheeting does not require recalculation of the load and additional reinforcement of load-bearing elements. Repairing a roof is not difficult; you should know a few rules:

Important! The roofs are covered from bottom to top, fixation is carried out with special self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket. It is strictly forbidden to scratch the surface of the painting - the layers of corrosion protection are fragile, and any scratch will cause irreparable harm. The formation of a cavity will allow moisture to corrode the coating, which will lead to rusting and deformation of the sheets

What topcoat should I use?

The wooden base of a flat roof, along with its advantages, also has features with a minus sign. This is an increased fire hazard and low load-bearing capacity (compared to reinforced concrete slabs).

To waterproof such a roof, it is advisable to use materials that do not require hot installation. Ideally, polymer membranes. When choosing built-up bitumen-polymer coatings (from the Euroroofing felt series), the first layer of material is installed mechanically, and the second - by fusing. In order to minimize the possibility of fire in structures during installation, it is recommended to use non-combustible CBPB boards as continuous cladding (on which the waterproofing is laid).

When constructing serviceable and ballasted roofs, you should also remember that excessive load on a wooden base can be fatal. Therefore, if the load-bearing capacity of the beams used is small, lightweight materials should be selected for the finishing coating - decking, deck boards, rubber paving slabs (rubber mats), etc.

If everything is done correctly (calculate the load, select the elements of the roofing pie), then a flat roof on beams can become not only excellent protection from adverse external conditions, but also a place to relax. You just have to want it!

Metal tiles

It is perhaps easier to cover the roof of a house with metal tiles than with any other material.

Lightweight and practical material is easy to handle and stack. You should take care of the continuous sheathing; the remaining steps are similar to the processes described above. How to properly cover a roof with metal tiles:

Important! Joints and junctions require special care. To prevent moisture from entering, care should be taken to ensure sufficient waterproofing and tight fit of the paintings to each other

Construction of houses

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Each of us has seen metal tiles more than once. Every year, more than one hundred square meters of this roofing material is installed on various roofs. In view of the widespread use of metal tiles, I would like to say a few words about the correct choice of material, its proper storage, as well as how to cover the roof with metal tiles and install all the additional elements that come with it.

Advantages of metal tiles

This roofing material first appeared on sale in Finland in the second half of the last century and since then has been successfully leading among all coatings of this kind. Today, metal tiles are made from aluminum-zinc steel, which has a protective polymer coating that protects the metal from corrosion and is painted in different colors.

In the manufacture of this material, several coatings are used, which differ in their properties, cost and thickness. Galvanized profiled sheets have a more complex internal structure than it initially seems: usually a cold-rolled hot-dip galvanized sheet is used for the base, which has a thickness of 0.4-0.5 millimeters.

Metal tiles have a list of key qualities that determine their popularity: light weight, ease of installation, long useful life, increased wear resistance and reasonable price. The material does not burn, does not deform or melt. Sometimes consumers suffer from increased noise during strong winds or rain, but this occurs when the roofing, sound insulation and drainage are not installed correctly.

This roofing material has a stylish appearance, often imitating traditional ceramic tiles, but is far superior to its clay counterpart in ergonomic qualities. Metal tiles are used for reconstruction of buildings or new construction. In any case, it can last 50 years, or even more, without losing its original appearance throughout the entire period of operation.

The process of laying metal tile sheets is one of those jobs that requires strict adherence to the requirements specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. Deviation from these recommendations can lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the material, and manufacturers in such cases decline responsibility due to breach of warranty.

Calculation of metal tile sheets

To buy the required number of sheets of metal tiles, first pay attention to any residential building that has a similar roof. “Waves” are placed across the roof slope, and “rows” are located along them. The pitch of metal tiles is the distance between the rows. A sheet that consists of 6 “waves” and has a pitch of 350 millimeters is called a “module”. One-, three-, six- and ten-module warehouse sheets are available for sale.

But you can also order sheets according to your own measured sizes. Of course, prices for special orders will be higher. However, when covering a complex roof with sheets of standard sizes, a lot of waste is generated, which also affects the price of covering the roof with metal tiles. But the possibility of individual cutting of roofing material for each customer allows us to reduce this waste significantly. Therefore, you need to choose warehouse sheets or their cutting based on a specific option.

The metal tile sheet has 2 widths: general and useful. As for the length of the sheets produced, the minimum length is 450 millimeters, and the maximum reaches 7 meters. The lower 50 millimeters of the sheet from the cut line to the wave crest is called the “bottom cut,” the size of which is the same for cut and stock sheets. The “top cut” from the crest of the wave to the edge at the top is 50 millimeters for standard metal tile sheets and up to 300 millimeters for special-order sheets.

To calculate the number of rows of sheets horizontally, you need to divide the maximum length of the slope along the ridge or cornice by the usable width of the sheet. Round the resulting number up. You can calculate the length of sheets in a stacked row by summing up several values.

The first of them is the length of the slope, measured from the eaves to the ridge, that is, from the bottom to the top point of the slope. The second is the length of the eaves overhang of 0.05 meters, which is calculated to prevent moisture from getting under the roofing sheets. The third is the length of the vertical overlap of the sheets of 0.15 meters. If there are two or more sheets in a row, then each subsequent sheet will overlap the bottom one, interlocking with each other at the “lock” and forming a strong, tight and even connection.

When choosing sheets of metal tiles, remember that it is not recommended to take sheets that are longer than 4-4.5 meters, because this is expensive and quite labor-intensive; inconveniences arise when loading, unloading and lifting the material onto the roof, because a long sheet can be scratched and bent and become deformed. When using very long sheets of metal tiles, it is better to cut them into pieces, which must be laid with an overlap of 150 millimeters.

Metal tiles, according to building codes, must be stored in an unheated room, where protection from weather factors - rain and direct sunlight - is maintained. Profiles that are factory-packed must be laid on a flat surface using beams 20 centimeters thick as a support, in increments of 50 centimeters. If you plan to store the material for longer than 1 month, unpack the metal tiles and stack them in stacks up to 70 centimeters high.

Construction of the rafter system

Calculation of the elements of the rafter system must be done at the roof design stage. The peculiarities of the roof shape, wind and snow loads for the region should be taken into account. If there are errors in the calculation of the pitch and cross-section of the rafters, the roof may sag over time, and cracks may also appear. The pitch of the rafters for metal tiles should be 600-900 millimeters. If this indicator is increased, it is recommended to use large cross-section boards (lathing). As a rule, it is customary to use rafters with a section of 100 or 150 by 50 millimeters.

If you plan to insulate the roof, it is advisable to install additional horizontal ventilation between the rafters. Namely, in the side of the rafters, drill holes near the top of the roof that have a diameter of 2-2.5 centimeters, in increments of 30 centimeters. After this, it is necessary to treat the wood materials with fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnations.

Before covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, it is recommended to check the diagonal length of all slopes, since the roof must have the correct rectangular shape. Then check the cornice, ridge, plane and slope fractures for horizontalness. If there are errors, the surface must be leveled.

When choosing metal tiles as a roofing covering, the minimum angle of inclination of the roof should reach 14 degrees, which ensures acceptable water flow, and the roof itself will not accumulate moisture and leak in the future. Be sure to install the cornice board into the grooves cut into the rafter legs to add more rigidity to the structure for installing hooks for gutters.

Many instructions for installing metal tile sheets recommend installing a fascia strip as well. The front board is attached to the end of the rafters for additional protection. The filing of eaves overhangs is carried out using corrugated sheets, siding or soffits, having previously made a special sheathing. If soffits without perforation are used as lining, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps to ensure free flow of air into the space under the roof.

Hooks for gutters are installed immediately before fastening the metal tiles. It is best to use long hooks, which provide greater structural strength. Install the gutter holders on the cornice strip, cutting out grooves for the “leg” of the hook. Secure the hooks with self-tapping screws. The installation pitch of the gutter holders usually coincides with the pitch of the rafters. For installed metal roofing, it is customary to use short hooks.

Arrangement of waterproofing and ventilation

Moisture and its minimal penetration into the under-roof space are contraindicated for any roofing pie, as it leads to rotting and cracking of the rafter system and corrosion of metal tile sheets. You can avoid such negative factors if you choose insulation for the roof of sufficient thickness, protect it from condensation with a waterproofing film and from moisture with a vapor barrier, and also arrange natural ventilation of the space.

To organize proper ventilation of a metal tile roof, you need to calculate the area of ​​ventilation gaps, according to the ratio of the total space of ventilation gaps to the total roof area of ​​1 to 100. Remember that ventilation gaps must be placed between the waterproofing and the roof, heat and waterproofing for through air flow, ridge and in the cornice lining for air flow.

For waterproofing metal roofing, it is customary to use waterproofing and anti-condensation films, as well as superdiffusion membranes. You should absolutely not install bitumen waterproofing under a metal tile roof! The waterproofing material is laid in such a way that air flows pass from the eaves without obstacles under the ridge of the roof and exit through the ventilation holes that are installed in the highest place.

Lay the waterproofing layer horizontally between the ridge and the eaves with an overlap of 15 centimeters, on top of the rafter system. You should start from the cornices. Lay the material with a slight sag between the rafter legs of 20-25 millimeters to avoid tearing the film in cold weather. Fastening of this material can be done using wooden slats installed along the trusses. Lay the vapor barrier film overlapping under the insulation, connecting its pieces with adhesive tape.

Construction of sheathing for metal tiles

Metal tiles require the creation of sheathing. For this, bars are used that have a cross-section of 5 by 5 centimeters, and boards measuring 3.2 by 10 centimeters. First of all, nail the falling bars from the ridge to the eaves to the rafters along the waterproofing film. Sheathing boards are attached to them horizontally. The first of them from the cornice should be 1-1.5 centimeters thicker than the others - 5 by 10 centimeters.

The boards must be fastened with the following distances: from the beginning of the first board to the middle of the next one there should be 28 centimeters, between the middles of the remaining boards - 35 centimeters. It is recommended to check the sheathing pitch every 5 rows from the first board. Laying metal tiles yourself is not an easy task. And if you make a mistake with the horizontality of the cornice board, you will have to re-cut the entire sheathing again.

Near the attic windows, chimney ducts and in the valleys, you need to make a continuous sheathing, nailing two additional abutment strips measuring 150 by 25 millimeters over a distance of 300 millimeters to the sides of the ridge strip. If the valley angle is almost flat, it is worth laying an additional layer of waterproofing material. The endow is attached using self-tapping screws to the sheathing in increments of 300 millimeters. The lower edge of the valley should be laid on top of the cornice strip. The overlap should be at least 100 millimeters at the horizontal junction of the valleys.

It is necessary to make a groove in the chimney pipe (it is strictly forbidden to cut into masonry seams) with a depth of at least 15 millimeters and waterproof the pipe by 50 millimeters, securing the cut with adhesive tape. The external junction strips will be placed on the pipe, with the upper part inserted into the groove. This area must be sealed with a high-quality heat-resistant sealant. Also at this stage it is necessary to provide places for the arrangement of passage elements of the roof - ventilation and antenna exits.

Fastening sheets of metal tiles

So we come to the main question of how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles. Regardless of the fact that metal tiles are a durable material, you should follow some rules when working with them. The process of laying metal tiles begins on the ground; you need to unpack and arrange the sheets in piles intended for each slope. Do not handle sheets with bare hands; wear protective gloves.

The technology for arranging a roof made of metal tiles allows for cutting sheets for complex areas on site. However, you cannot cut sheets with a grinder, as the protective polymer layer may be damaged. Use electric nibblers or tin snips for cutting. Before you start cutting, practice on a separate piece, since cutting metal tiles is more difficult than ordinary steel sheet.

When lifting metal tiles onto the roof, it is important not to scratch them. Take the sheet of material as you move it beyond the edge of the stamping line and lift it onto the roof using the guides from the boards. It is not recommended to lift long sheets by the edges, because the sheet may bend. Also, do not load multiple sheets at the same time. Remember that when moving through the sheets, you need to choose shoes with soft soles. Do not step on the crest of the wave, but only on your toes. Place your foot parallel to the slope.

The direction of laying sheets is not tied to anything, so it can be done from left to right or from right to left. When choosing to install metal tiles from left to right, you will have to lift the edge of the sheet, and place the edge of the next one under it. As a result, the outermost sheet will rest on the previous one, or rather, on its transverse wave, which prevents the sheets from sliding. On gable roofs, the installation of sheets begins from the end, and on hip roofs - they are laid from the hip. Align the sheets relative to the cornices. If you start laying the covering with long sheets, it will be much easier to level them.

When laying the material in one row, the first sheet is placed on the sheathing, temporarily attached with one self-tapping screw. Then lay the next sheet, aligned with the first, and fasten the sheets together. Make sure that all sheets fit together tightly and correctly from a geometric position. Install the metal tiles, moving from the eaves to the ridge. After this, attach all the sheets to the sheathing, and the last sheet in the row is attached to the sheathing only after leveling the next block.

When laying sheets of metal tiles from right to left in several rows, lay the first sheet, aligning it along the end and the cornice, then place a second sheet on top of the first, temporarily secure it with one screw in the center of the sheet at the ridge, align the sheets and fasten them together with screws. Then you need to lay the third sheet on the left side of the first, fasten the sheets together and lay the fourth sheet over the third. Align the entire block along the end and cornice, and then finally attach the metal tile sheets to the sheathing.

When laying material on a triangular slope, before starting installation, it is necessary to mark the center of the slope and draw an axis through this center. Then the same axis needs to be marked on the sheet and the features of the axes drawn on the sheet and the slope should be combined. Secure the sheet to the ridge with one self-tapping screw. On both sides of it, continue installation according to the principles that were described in the previous versions.

Sheets of metal tiles are attached to each other, to the eaves, to the ends and to the sheathing. First, three or four sheets are fastened together at the joints, then they are secured in place with one screw, aligned strictly along the eaves, and only then the sheets are finally attached to the sheathing. Sheets of roofing material are attached to the sheathing with two self-tapping screws - near the ridge and at the eaves. Continue installing the coating according to the same scheme. Brush away any drilling shavings with a soft brush after finishing installing the metal tiles and touch up the surface if necessary.

End and ridge strip

To protect the metal tile from the lifting force of the wind and the process of loosening its fastening, an end strip is required. It also acts as a protective element for the structure from moisture. The end strip is installed towards the ridge from the cornice, without cutting off the excess at the ridge. Attach this strip to the end board with self-tapping screws every 500-600 millimeters

Due to the difference in heights, the end strip is pressed tightly against the sheets of metal tiles, this eliminates rattling and noise during gusts of wind. The overlap of the end strips should be up to 100 millimeters. The waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the end strip, which will cover the edge of the waterproofing material. Also, such a strip should cover the upper crest of the wave to protect the metal tiles from water ingress.

To ensure proper ventilation of the space under the roof, air must freely pass to the ridge from the eaves and exit through the holes in the ridge seal to the outside. Lay waterproofing on the continuous sheathing so that it overlaps the bottom layer of waterproofing material along the edges by at least 150 millimeters.

The ridge is attached to the sheathing using ridge screws into the upper crest of the metal tile wave on both sides. The seal is attached to the ridge before the latter is installed on the roof, having first removed the protective film from it.

Upper valley and abutment strips

The upper valley strip is needed to remove moisture from the inner corner of the roof, located at the junction of two slopes. The valley is secured with self-tapping screws so that they do not go through and damage the waterproofing. Remember that a self-expanding sealant must be laid between the sheets of tiles and the upper valley.

It is also necessary to leave ventilation gaps of about 20 millimeters between the valley planks, and make an overlap of 200 millimeters at the joints when laying the planks. The corner sheet of the valley must overlap the roofing sheet by at least 250 millimeters.

Special strips must be installed on breaks in the roof and when the roofing is adjacent to the wall. Roof fractures can be reverse or straight. In areas of fractures, it is recommended to maintain continuous waterproofing. In case of a direct break in the slope, the sheathing boards should be as close to each other as possible. The sheet of metal tile covering the breaks in the slopes should protrude slightly above the break in the roof and thereby cover it.

In the case of a reverse fracture of the roof slope, you can use the junction with the wall as a mating element, placing it on the lower slope with the rolled side. The connection of the roof to the wall is arranged according to a similar principle as the procedure for connecting to a pipe. The waterproofing is removed and raised onto the wall, at least 50 millimeters before the groove. Depending on the connection - to the end or side of the wall, use a universal or profile seal.

Fastening gutters and snow guards

Long hooks are installed on the eaves board or rafters before covering the old roof with metal tiles. For better water drainage, the gutter angle should be at least 5 millimeters per linear meter. It is customary to install hooks with a vertical offset. To insert the gutter into the hook, you need to insert its spout into the gutter in such a way that the spout is inside the curl.

Then you should fix the other edge of the gutter using a snap-on plate clamp. The outer edge of the gutter should be 6 millimeters lower than the inner edge in order to prevent water from entering the façade during heavy rainfall. The continuation of the edge of the metal tile should hang 50 millimeters above the gutter. The gutter is connected to the corner of another gutter or to the next gutter end-to-end using a special connector.

The gutter connector is equipped with a special rubber gasket that ensures a tight connection between the two gutters and also compensates for thermal expansion. The drainpipe should be of such length that the drain elbow is located at a distance of about 200 millimeters from the ground or moisture-resistant base, since if the height is too high, water splashes. To organize the removal of water, it is necessary to equip a storm drain.

It is imperative to install snow holders on a metal tile roof, because thanks to these products the snow will not fall on your head and will not scratch the roofing material as it falls off. Snow holders are attached under the second transverse step of the metal tile parallel to the cornice. They are installed under the crest of the wave in bars that were previously attached. The lower edge of the snow guard is attached from above on every second wave. For long slopes, it is recommended to install snow guards in several rows.

Lightning rod and roof grounding

To install the lightning rod and weather vane, prepare a metal bracket, a compass, metal screws, and a wrench. Weather vanes can be mounted on a ridge, roof end or spire. For safety reasons, metal roofing must be grounded. This is done in order to protect the roofing material from damage when lightning strikes the roof and protect the residents of the house. Such a system consists of a down conductor, a grounding conductor and an lightning rod.

The lightning rod is installed at the highest point of the roof using wooden supports. The down conductor is attached to the lightning rod and lowered along the sheathing under the sheets of tiles. It is welded to the lightning rod, and where it comes into contact with the sheets of metal tiles, the protective coating or layer of varnish is removed. For greater contact between points, it is worth branching such a wire into several sheets so that lightning quickly finds the path of minimal resistance.

Then they run the down conductor along the wall of the residential building and connect it to the ground electrode. It is recommended to install the down conductor along the wall opposite the entrance. To equip the grounding of the roof, you need to dig a hole 1.5 meters deep, fill it with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, fill it with water, lower the ground electrode there, fill the hole with soil and water it.

Now you have learned how much it costs to cover a roof with metal tiles, and how to do it correctly. But that is not all! Additional elements are included with each ventilation or antenna output. First, you should place a template of a passage element or ventilation outlet on the metal roof and trace it along the contour. Then you need to cut a hole along the resulting line. Outlets and passage elements are fixed to the metal profile with special self-tapping screws.

Flexible bitumen shingles

To make it easier to overlap and distribute the tiles evenly, the process should start from the middle of the eaves. Remove the protective film from the shingles and glue it to the base.

Then they are nailed along the edges. The best option is galvanized nails with fairly wide heads. The joints of the shingles should be covered with tabs.

If the design assumes the presence of pipes, then special passage elements are attached along the perimeter of the shingle cutout. The tiles should be glued overlapping where the ridge is.

If you have a brick chimney that gets hot, it would be better to place a triangular shaped block at the corner of the chimney and the roof. At a distance of approximately 20 cm from the pipe, a lining carpet is laid, and a special connector is put on the pipe. The cracks should be sealed with sealant.

Construction of a roof for a garage

How to make a pitched roof with your own hands? We will consider this issue using the example of the construction of such a popular object as a garage with a pitched roof.

Before you start building the roof, you need to do some preparatory work.

As a rule, you need to start with choosing the material for its arrangement. The following options are possible:

• tiles;
• metal profile;
• metal tiles;
• ondulin;
• roofing felt

Each material has its own characteristics and advantages, which must be taken into account in each specific case. The next thing to do is calculate the angle of inclination of the pitched roof. Typically a 25 degree tilt will be more than enough. The minimum slope may be different, it all depends on the design features. The slope affects the ability of the roof to remove accumulated snow and precipitation from the surface. As a rule, water will be retained on a metal profile more than on other materials

Also, when calculating the angle of inclination, you need to take into account the location of the building, it does not matter whether it will be a pitched roof of a garage or a house. If the area is windy, then the angle can be made a little smaller

Well, if the building is located in a quiet, shady forest, where there is almost no wind, the angle is made larger.

For construction you will need:

• rafters (the rafter system of a pitched roof has its own characteristics);
• beams;
• sheathing, possibly even ceilings.

Then you can move on to the process itself. The construction of such an object as a pitched roof with your own hands will step by step look like this:

Particular attention is paid to the construction of beams. The design is such that they should be at a distance of 0.7-0.8 m from each other

Installation is carried out on a seismic platform or mauerlat. A shed roof for a garage is designed in such a way that its lower part is located on the leeward side. Next, rafters are mounted to the beams, which provide support for the highest part of the roof. The number of rafters and beams should be the same. As a result, you should get a right triangle of beams and a vertical rafter board. After this, a rafter leg is installed, which will later serve as a support for the sheathing. One edge of it is on the edge of the beam at the bottom of the roof, the other is on the vertical rafters.

For each beam, all actions from the above points are repeated. Upon completion, installation of the sheathing begins. It is organized using 50x50 mm bars, which need to be nailed across the rafters. The step between them should be such that the slate sheet (as an option, using this material) can cover with a margin the standing slats on each side by 15 cm.

Having gone through all these stages, you can only get an incomplete answer to the question of how to make a pitched garage roof, because at this stage only the construction of the frame has been completed. After this you can move on to the roof. If slate is used, then installation should begin from the bottom rows. Fastening is carried out with special slate nails at the joints of four slate sheets. In addition, 2 more such nails are nailed to each sheet along the edges, which will prevent it from being lifted by gusts of wind. After which the roof can be insulated.

Ruberoid

Practical, lightweight, convenient rolled material is equally well suited for re-roofing in a private house, outbuildings and other objects. How to properly cover a roof with soft rolled material:

Important! Covering roofs in a private house with roofing felt requires double laying of rolls: the first layer is bedding, the second is the finishing coating. In this way, a continuous surface is created that protects the structure from leakage, and tearing off a couple of layers by the wind will be problematic, as well as pushing through it with snow and ice

After laying out, the surface is leveled with a roller to remove possible air bubbles - they then turn into condensation and deform the coating.

To make work easier, you can take euroroofing felt - a material equipped with a protective film that serves as a temperature indicator. The laying rule is simple: do not overheat the sheets, otherwise the coating will deform.

What material to choose as the final roofing covering

The choice of topcoat for a garage roof depends on a number of factors.

It is important to take into account not only technical parameters, but also your own requirements for the appearance and installation of the roof. The most common options are:

1. Ceramic tiles. The material is resistant to corrosion and temperature changes, but is expensive.
2. Ondulin. The coating is valued for its practicality and long service life. The color variety of ondulin allows you to choose the option that suits your design.
3. Profiled sheeting. Metal sheets are valued for their ease of installation and the presence of a polymer coating that provides protection from climatic influences.
4. Ruberoid. Roll material is often used to construct a flat type of roof. The coating is very cheap and durable, but has an unaesthetic appearance.
5. Polycarbonate. The material is suitable for roofing open garages. Polycarbonate bends easily, is resistant to damage and has a long service life.

Sheet steel

The advantage of re-roofing with this material is the ease of installation, regardless of the roof configuration. In the case of using non-galvanized sheets, the paintings are treated with hot bitumen on both sides.

The sheathing is arranged with a section of beams of 50*50 mm, a step of 20 cm. It is possible to install a continuous sheathing with flooring; the structure is laid on top of roofing felt or roofing felt - materials that perform waterproofing functions.

The seam roof is connected by seams: on the short side there are lying parts, on the long side there are standing parts. Clips attach the roofing material to the sheathing and nail it with 50 mm long nails. Fastening is carried out only from the side of the base; the number of clamps on one sheet is at least 3 pieces.

Covering the roof with seam material is done perpendicular to the ridge element, then only connect the pictures with lying seams.

After the process is completed, the paintings are secured with clamps to the sheathing. Completing the finishing of the ridge element requires fastening the covering of one row to the wall gutter with a double rebated seam. The eaves overhangs rest on spikes, gutters on wall structures are mounted on hooks, and drainage elements are secured with stirrups.

You can re-cover the roof yourself with patience and knowledge. You should select materials for repairs in advance and correctly calculate the weight load. In the case of laying natural tiles or other heavy piece elements, strengthen the support system, and if we are covering a soft roof, then such calculations are not required.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer

Upon completion of the construction, the lathing proceeds to the installation of a vapor barrier layer.

If the attic space is to be further used as a living space, then a vapor barrier must be installed under the roofing material. To properly cover the roof with a vapor barrier material, use isospan or yutafan film.

If the attic space is not intended to be used in any way in the future, then it is advisable, but not necessary, to install a vapor barrier layer.

The vapor barrier layer is laid according to the following rules:

• the film is rolled out starting from the lower right edge of the roof slope;
• Each row of film is laid on top of the sheathing, and there should be an overlap of 5-7 cm between the rows of film.

Estimating costs

In conclusion, let’s look at how much it costs to reroof a private house. As we found out earlier, the largest amount of funds will be required to purchase the roofing material itself. Knowing the area of ​​the roof, it is easy to calculate how much it will cost to purchase it, taking into account the reserve for joints and other possible cases.

When planning costs, it is important to take into account the condition of the entire rafter system: if it requires repair or complete replacement, then costs will increase by at least 2-3 times. However, these are necessary and necessary expenses, since the service life of the roof directly depends on the quality of the rafter system.

A possible item in the expense map being drawn up will be the involvement of hired labor, if you cannot rely only on your own strength. The cost of services for hired builders is quite high, and therefore one of the main opportunities to save on roofing is to do all the work yourself.

Re-roofing is a labor-intensive and quite costly process, which often does not amount to just replacing the roofing. When planning this process, it is important to seriously assess the condition of the rafter system and calculate in advance all the costs of constructing a new roof.

Today there are several types of roofs in construction:

Its advantages include the possibility of saving on roofing material and scaffolding, ease and speed of construction, and low weight.

Disadvantages: not very attractive appearance and lack of an attic or its small size.

Its obvious advantages are its relatively light weight (compared, for example, with a four-hipped roof), a fairly large attic space, the possibility of arranging an attic in the under-roof space, as well as an attractive, harmonious appearance. This type of roof is heated by sunlight on both sides.

The roof does not have any particular disadvantages. We can only point out its relatively heavy weight and greater consumption of building materials than during the construction of a pitched roof.

A gable roof requires a ridge (a single-pitch roof does not) and gutters to drain rainwater.

This type of roofing is not very popular, since its construction is quite complex and building a hip roof with your own hands requires certain skills.

The obvious advantages of this type of roofing include its aesthetic appearance and large attic space. The possibility of four-way heating makes the attic very warm.

Among the disadvantages of this type are its heavy weight and, as already mentioned, the complexity of construction work.

Find out all the details about the design of the rafter system of a hipped roof. And you can find out what types of polycarbonate there are for roofing and its characteristics here.

An ideal choice for a multi-level building or a structure that is not entirely rectangular in shape. It looks quite original, and also fits harmoniously into almost any area.

A combined type roof is much easier to construct, since it can be built in separate sections: at the first stage of work, cover the terrace located on the second floor under one slope; then build a gable roof over the bedrooms; at the next stage, cover the protruding area of ​​the kitchen on the ground floor, etc.

The photo shows different types of roofs: 1 – pitched; 2 – gable; 3 – broken or attic; 4 – hip (hatched); 5 – tent; 6 – multi-pincer.

There is also a hip roof, which consists of four identical slopes in the shape of isosceles triangles; roof Sudeikin and others.

With all the variety of types of roofs, their construction is based on several basic principles. Having caught them, you can build even the most complex roof yourself.

The entire construction process is divided into several main stages. So, let's find out how to build a roof with your own hands.

Features of roofing with your own hands

When working with your own hands, special attention should be paid to safety precautions. It is necessary to use insurance, protective gloves, glasses and shoes with hard soles. The area around the house must be fenced and warning signs posted. Tools must be tied to a belt or crate to prevent them from falling down.

The material should be purchased only from trusted retail outlets, avoiding the temptation to buy it cheap from dubious sellers. It is recommended to take the coating, components and fasteners with a small margin - up to 15% of the requirement, taking into account scraps, errors, damage during transportation, storage and installation.

Mounting the Mauerlat

The foundation, which takes on the main part of the load, is the Mauerlat.

The entire roof is built on it. Beams with a cross section of 15x15 cm are used. They are installed parallel to the roof ridge.

For the strength of the roof and resistance to adverse weather conditions, the Mauerlat beams should be securely fastened, and care must be taken about this already when laying the walls.

For this purpose, a strong thick rope is laid between the masonry blocks (bricks) at a distance of 1 meter, starting from the fourth floor. It's called wire rod.

The middle part of the wire must be secured in the brickwork, and the ends should be left hanging. Their length should be sufficient for subsequent tying of the timber. If you plan to plaster, then the outer end of the wire will need to be mounted in the solution.

Photo: fastening the Mauerlat with twisted wire

The Mauerlat must retreat from the edge of the wall by at least 10 cm. To protect the beams from rotting, layers of roofing felt must be laid under them.

Frame installation

To ensure sufficient strength of the roof, it is necessary to take care of the frame. The frame of the house is the rafters attached to the mauerlat.

It should be taken into account that if the length of the beams is more than 4.5 cm, it will be necessary to additionally install purlins. The optimal size of beams is considered to be a section of 7x15 cm.

The rafters are attached to the mauerlat using a special cutout, fixed with 20-centimeter nails. They are hammered like this:

Thanks to this technology, the rafter is firmly attached and does not move.

The upper part of the overlapping beams is attracted to each other so that the edge of one beam overlaps the end of the other (parallel). They are fastened using nails or bolts.

Roof reinforcement

To reduce the impact of the expansion force on the Mauerlat and increase the strength of the roof, the rafter legs must be fastened together using beams whose cross-section is 5x15 cm.

This design detail is called a “crossbar”.

So, the size of the crossbar and the distance between the rafter beams that need to be connected correspond to each other. Fastening should be done using nails.

It is also necessary to take care of attaching a filly to each rafter leg, which is a board with a cross-section of 50x100 cm. It is secured with metal brackets and screws to one side of the rafter leg.

Its length is calculated in the following way: add 50 cm to the length of the overhang.

To avoid difficulties, you need to think about preparing the filly in advance. To do this, a cutout is made on the board, the width of which is 15 cm, with which it is attached to the Mauerlat.

Particular attention must be paid to ensuring that the boards and rafters fit together exactly. It is better to complete all this work before the construction of the rafter system begins, so that then you can simply assemble the entire structure.

At this stage, you also need to choose the angle of inclination of the roof. To make the right choice, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the area. For example, in the presence of heavy rainfall and a fairly cold climate, an inclination angle of 40 to 45 degrees is considered ideal.

Snow does not accumulate on such a roof, which avoids increasing pressure on the floors. The distance between the rafter legs should be 1 meter.

In hot and dry climates, the minimum tilt angle is 3 degrees.

In areas with frequent strong winds, the optimal tilt angle is considered to be 20 degrees.

For an accurate calculation, you should use the rules used by professionals.

Builders measure this value using a special tool - an inclinometer. Before starting measurements, you need to calculate the required angle.

For this, a special formula is used: the angle of inclination is equal to the height of the ridge divided by the figure obtained by dividing the length of the roof by two.

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work

The sequence of stages of roof construction is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, treatment of wood with antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof using racks, struts and tie-downs;
7. waterproofing;
8. sheathing;
9. providing ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. installation of coating.

Fastening the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fastened, you need to ensure that it is securely connected to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - this element is the upper crown made of timber or logs. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often called sleds. This type of roof arrangement allows the entire structure to shift slightly as the walls shrink without destruction or deformation.

“Sliding” fastening in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the Mauerlat will be the top frame of the walls. It is attached to the frame posts with a gash using angles, staples or nails.

Methods of attaching rafters to the frame in a frame house

The roof structure made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete involves fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to place the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on stiletto heels;
• on anchor bolts.

The Mauerlat can be secured to brackets. In this case, wooden blocks are placed into the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the mauerlat, and the other to the same block in the masonry. The method can also be considered simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Fastening the Mauerlat to brackets. Antiseptic wooden blocks are provided in the masonry of the wall with a pitch of 1-1.5 m

When installing the roof yourself, fastening can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The fasteners are laid in the masonry. The Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the sawn-off edge and lightly hit with a hammer. After this, indentations remain on the beam at the fastening points. You need to make holes for the studs along them. After this, the beam is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete with a monolithic reinforced belt.

Attaching the Mauerlat to studs

Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to perform it using rigid fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat. In this case, you can use both a layered and hanging system. The design involves two methods:

• with notch;
• without cutting.

Connection with and without
cutting In the first case, the rafters are cut with a slope so that they fit tightly to the mauerlat. To remove the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the assembly should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will be more reliable if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixation.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the beams themselves provide the frame extension. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high precision. It is suitable for beginners. In this case, stop bars or boards are used to ensure a tight fit to the Mauerlat. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Attaching rafters to the wall

The completed frame must be secured to the frame of the building - this will prevent a strong gust of wind from tearing off the roof. To do this, the rule is to use a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg where it rests on the mauerlat, and then the wire is attached to the wall with an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in the masonry in advance.

Wind protection

For a wooden house, you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the walls are made of wood.

Strengthening the system

How to strengthen the frame for spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this purpose, struts and racks are used. Reinforcement must be done taking into account the layout; it is important that these elements do not interfere with people’s stay and fit harmoniously into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. The racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They can be installed on underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce the thrust. Because of it, the rafters can simply move apart. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two ties, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out using screws, nails or studs.

Connection to purlin

At the top point, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge girder. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross-section from 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

Lathing

Before starting work at this stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor diffusion moisture-proof membrane. It costs more than plastic film, but provides more reliable protection. Owning your own home is not a reason to save money.

Roof structure under corrugated sheets

The roof requires fastening of the sheathing. The type depends on the selected roofing material. For metal, a sparse sheathing of boards 32-40 mm thick will be sufficient. Under bitumen shingles you need a continuous sheathing made of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding with the roofing stage, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect structures from mold, mildew and destruction.

Proper ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

• air flow through the cornice (the cornice is hemmed with a sparse board or special perforated soffits);
• air movement under the covering (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​the ridge (for this, a ridge and/or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roof covering

The type of roof is selected for aesthetic and economic reasons. It is also worth studying the manufacturers’ proposals and finding out the permissible slope. For example, it is not recommended to lay bitumen shingles on a slope of more than 45°.

Seam roofing is a lightweight fireproof and durable covering

The flooring material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage:

• seam roofing;
• metal tiles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• ondulin;
• flexible tiles.

Insulation

Most often, mineral wool is used for thermal insulation.
Thermal insulation can be performed only after installation of the coating and waterproofing. Mineral wool is most often used for insulation. It is held between the rafters due to friction against the beams and due to the lower sheathing. The thickness of the thermal insulation is selected by calculation depending on the climatic region, on average 150-200 mm. Read more about roof insulation.

Lathing

To cover the roof you will need to make a sheathing. When choosing tiles as a roofing material, the sheathing must be continuous.

The photo shows the structural elements of the roof: 1. roof roofing; 2. border; 3.

ventilation hatch; 4. skate; 5. rafters (rafter leg); 6.

auxiliary elements; 7. counter beam (counter beam); 8. roof sheathing; 9.

safety protective element; 10. eaves gutter; 11. frieze (border) of the wall; 12.

valley or valley; 13. drainage drain pipe; 14. snow fence; 15.

vents for steam exhaust; 16. support bridge; 17. anchor support plate; 18.

strapping element; 19. lightning rod; 20. connecting technical equipment from premises; 21.

air duct; 22. exit to the roof; 23. recumbent dormer (attic) window; 24.

standing dormer; 25. pipe (stove chimney); 26. sloping roof; 27.

attic floor; 28. dividing wall of the attic space; 29. thermal insulation.

The work requires solid wooden boards, the thickness of which is approximately 25 cm.

Particular attention should be paid to the absence of cracks and chips on them. The length of the boards should be equal to two spans between the rafters, i.e., 2 meters.

In this case, the joints will be located only on the supports.

The distance between them should be no more than 5 mm. The boards used to form the ridge should be placed at the closest possible distance from one another. Fastening is carried out using nails 20 cm long.

The choice of lathing option depends on the type of roofing material.

If it is intended to create rolled soft roofs, then the sheathing flooring must be intact (solid). If you have a slate or metal roof, a discharged sheathing is suitable.

If necessary, you can make the flooring double. In this case, the first layer must be laid in the standard order - parallel to the ridge, and the second - along the descent, perpendicular.

All the nuances of building an attic roof with your own hands, as well as useful tips for beginners. Rules for repairing a roof made of roofing felt can be found at the link. All about TechnoNIKOL soft roofing - https://rooffs.ru/myagkaya/info/krovlya-tehnonikol.html

Installation of roof sheathing

Roof sheathing options.

You need to understand that the pitch of the sheathing depends on the type of final roofing covering. Materials for lathing need the highest quality; calibrated boards are best suited. You can try to make a lathing from an uncalibrated board, but then it will be impossible to guarantee the success of the enterprise and everything will have to be redone. There should be no steps or irregularities on the sheathing; all joints are perfectly matched. The smoother your sheathing is, the better the roofing material will fit.

You can check how smooth your sheathing is in the following way. 4 nails are driven along the edges of the roof slope, along their perimeter, above the level of the sheathing, a nylon thread is pulled, as well as two more threads crosswise, across the entire slope. Pull it tightly so that there is no sagging; you can check it with your own hands; if when you press the thread springs a little, it means you did everything right. After all the manipulations have been completed, you need to stand on the side of the slope, from this point it will be clearly visible whether the roof plane has deviated from the ideal or not. If the plane of the slope is uneven, then you can place pieces of plywood or any other similar material under the sheathing in places where there is sagging. After this, the nylon threads are removed.

Roofing installation

This process is individual for each coating, but there are several subtleties that are suitable in any case. The covering material should be laid correctly from bottom to top; this ensures a stable overlap of the parts and creates a reliable barrier to the flow of rain or melt water. To determine where the lower border of the material should be, stretch the nylon thread horizontally along the entire slope. The covering sheet should hang from the edge of the sheathing by at least 6 cm, and if you have a drain, then to its middle.

It is more convenient to fasten several sections of the covering on the ground, and then lift it to the roof and secure it to the sheathing.

Ventilation

Sheathing is not enough to cover the roof. You need to think about its integrity during operation.

To ventilate the tiles, you need to leave gaps in the sheathing, two or three ventilation ducts on each side.

The channels should start at the bottom of the overhang and end as high as possible. The width is approximately 5 cm. An outlet for the hood is installed at the top to remove air.

Floor arrangement

Since the attic floor combines insulating and load-bearing functions, it has a multi-layer structure. Its components, complementing each other, are combined into a single system that provides strength, load-bearing capacity and durability. If we list all the layers of the attic floor, starting from the attic side, then it looks like this:

• Finish floor. Finish flooring is a decorative floor covering that covers the subfloor of an attic. If the under-roof space is residential, then laminate, treated wood, linoleum, and parquet are used to arrange the finished floor. In an uninhabited attic there may be no finished floor at all.
• Rough floor. A subfloor is a flooring made of boards that is laid over the joists. To install it, use an edged board 4-5 cm thick; in order to save money, it can be replaced with an unedged one.
• Lags. Lags are strong, even boards or bars that are laid perpendicular to the floor beams for floor installation. Thermal insulation material is usually laid between the joists, protected from below by a layer of vapor barrier, and from above by a layer of waterproofing.
• Beams. The floor frame consists of strong, thick beams that are installed on ledges in the walls or embedded in them. The beams bear the entire total weight of the structures, so they must have a high load-bearing capacity.
• Ceiling lining. The bottom of the ceiling is sheathed with finishing material, for example, wood or plasterboard, to give an aesthetic appearance to the ceiling of the residential floor.

Note! Thermal insulation and vapor barrier are the same important components of the structure as floor beams or joists, as they protect the wood and insulation from damping out, getting wet and condensation. If you forget about the insulating layers, the ceiling will not last long and will require repairs within 2-3 years.

Attic floor installation

Installation of droppers and lining layer

To protect the roofing from the harmful effects of condensation, it is necessary to lay a lining layer on the sheathing. Its installation is carried out only along the edges, where there is a high probability of water seepage: on internal valleys, near pipes, towards the ridge.

The width of the underlay layer should be approximately 40 cm. Nail the carpet using screws or nails at a distance of about 25-30 cm.

If necessary, you can lay another layer; it should be located on top of the one already nailed. You can glue the overlap using bitumen glue.

Another stage of work before covering the roof should be the installation of drip lines. They are metal plates to protect the cornice from moisture.

The planks are nailed with nails at a distance of 10 cm, and the overlap is 5 cm. In a similar way, drips are secured to the ridge.

Flexible tiles are attached to the plates, which improve both the function of the drip and its appearance. Since the plates are self-adhesive, the protective layer must first be removed from them and only then attached to the cornice. For greater reliability, it is recommended to additionally nail them with nails.

The procedure for dismantling the old roof and preparatory work

Dismantling the old roof begins from the ridge. Using a pry bar or a nail puller, the roofing nails are undermined by their wide heads. The ridge, gutter and other roof components are removed. The top row of the old roof, freed from nails, is tied and smoothly lowered to the ground on cables.

1. The following rows can be dismantled while in the attic. The skeleton of the rafter structure, freed from the old roof, is carefully inspected. Damaged or rotten skeleton beams are replaced with new ones.
2. The mauerlat, rafter legs, ridge and sheathing are checked for flatness and, if necessary, leveled. A waterproofing film and insulation are installed on the skeleton.
3. The waterproofing film not only protects against condensation, but also prevents rain and melt water from reaching the insulation. Modern materials for waterproofing are equipped with a micro-perforated coating, which ensures free circulation of steam and moist air throughout the attic, thus, the presence of a water barrier contributes to the formation of a dry and “breathable” atmosphere under the roof.
4. The waterproofing film consists of three layers. The middle mesh reinforcement layer consists of interwoven polyethylene fibers. On both sides of which lamination layers and micro-perforations are applied to ensure free air movement.

A properly equipped roof with insulation and a full range of protective equipment prevents the appearance of icicles and snow slides from a steep pitched roof. To combat landslides, special stoppers are used; they not only break up snow layers, but also separate storm flows into small streams.

Cornice filing

This work is carried out at the final stage. The walls should already be insulated, since the frame box should fit closely to them. Otherwise, it will be necessary to either break the sheathing or leave a section of the wall uninsulated.

It is preferable to make the lining from wood. This will eliminate the need for additional ventilation. The hem is a kind of box attached to the extension of the rafters and the fillet.

The photo shows the design of the eaves overhang

Its frame is made up of two boards, one of which goes from the end of the overhang towards the wall, while the second goes down from the rafters. The boards are connected at right angles. Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are used to secure the connection points.

Metal plates are also used. It is imperative to leave small gaps between the boards. The corners of the box are cut at a certain angle, and they are secured using metal brackets and self-tapping screws.

Then the lower part of the frame is covered with boards along its entire length.

Since they are exposed to the environment, they must be secured very carefully, especially around the edges. It is also necessary to pay attention to the fact that the joints of the rows of adjacent beams do not coincide. The corners need to be filed at 45 degrees.

How to properly cover a roof with metal tiles ↑

Main stages of implementation

First of all, preparatory work is carried out, which, if necessary, includes the dismantling of old roofing material and sheathing. That is, the workspace is being prepared.

As a result, beams and rafters that make up the supporting structure may remain on the roof.

Further, if, after measuring the plane of the slopes, distortions are detected, they are leveled. This is necessary to protect the metal tile roof from the formation of cracks and, accordingly, from possible leaks.

Then waterproofing is laid, protecting the structure from moisture penetration from the outside and from condensation from the inside, and a counter-lattice is sewn on.

The next step is to assemble the sheathing of the future roof from boards 10*2.5 cm and beams 5*2.5 cm. The pitch of the sheathing can vary between 35–45 cm. It is installed in such a way that the sheathing protrudes slightly beyond the walls, forming an overhang that protects building from the rain.

Do you need thermal insulation?

Correctly covering a roof with metal tiles involves laying insulation. This solution is aimed at limiting heat loss, which is difficult to avoid completely, given the high level of thermal conductivity of this material. Typically, mineral wool or tile insulation is used for this.

Thermal insulation material is installed between the rafters with an overlap of 5-8 cm, especially carefully strengthening the corners of the sheathing. Thermal insulation simultaneously also plays the role of a sound insulator and compensates for the main shortcomings of the roofing material: high sound and thermal conductivity.

Therefore, covering the roof with metal tiles without laying insulation is impractical.

It is also necessary to consider the ventilation system, otherwise the service life will be significantly reduced, since accumulated condensate will cause failure of not only the insulation and the tiles themselves, but also the rafter system.